twsutt

Skyblue, Probably not a bad injector if it was replaced a year ago. I assume that the hoses were replaced at that time, or at least the hose that connects the injector to the fuel rail. Check the hoses and see if you can identify any code numbers on the hose and look it up on the internet - you may have low pressure fuel hose instead of fuel injection hose. That's what happened on mine...the previous owner put on the wrong type of hose and it began to leak about two or three years later (my car is just a weekend driver). ZCurves, I've solved my problem. I bought a new set of injectors, connectors, injector brackets, allen head screws, gaskets, ect. from OSideTiger FICS (http://osidetiger.com). Just for the security of knowing that the job has been done and how it's been done. As I unwrapped the electrical tape from the 4th cylinder's fuel injector connector I found that the wire had broken clean in half from being disconnected and reconnected to the injector. The wires were very stiff and brittle from thirty-five years of engine heat and the elements.

kjphilippona - Yes, the hoses are the same size. SBlake, FastWoman and everyone else - thanks for your help/responses. In the last month I have taken a two week vacation and all the rest of my time has been taken up with my family (which is always a priority.) But yesterday I did manage to get about 20 minutes to start the Z, drive around for about 10 minutes, and do a little looking under the hood. No changes since post #22. I did have time to pull each of the spark plug wires one at a time - the #4 cylinder came off without any difference in the idle. Next I'll pull the plug to check if it's fouled or not sparking. If the spark plug is operating correctly I'll check the connection on the fuel injector. If I'm getting both a spark at the plug and the injector is pulsing then I'll pull the injector. I understand that there is a small filter on the inlet side of the injector...how serviceable/accessible is this filter? Will I have to remove the barbed nipple that the fuel hose connects to to gain access to this filter? I've got to get the Z back in proper running order - last Friday when I picked up my 2 year old son up from his daycare he looked up at me as we were walking out the door and asked me simply and to the point, "Z?" We haven't gone for our Friday sunset drive in almost two months and my wife has said that she actually wanted to help me get some time with my mistress. (Besides, when my son and I go for our drive it gives her about two hours alone without anybody to bother her.)

Simple works best for me. I'm simple.

I pushed the car out of the garage and gave the key a turn. The engine started right up but now she's running very rough. Before I replaced the hoses (and fuel injector o-rings) everything was running like a top, but now, not-so-much. What could I have done to it? I even put the fuel injectors back in the same order that they were in prior to their removal. I'm stumped. I tried the "listening to the injectors with a screwdriver" trick and all of the injectors seem to have the rhythmic clicking that they should have. Could something have gotten in the line? I hate to have a fairly simple job turn into a huge catastrophe. I'm open to suggestions.

I keep looking for weed in my Z but I haven't found any yet. I think that I'll go look again....

Last night I stole about 15 minutes from the family and snuck into the garage to check a few things. First I had to check to be certain that I used the right size hose - 5/16" I.D. hose rated for fuel injection - check! Then, I proceeded to tighten the clamps all the way down (about 1 to 1.5 mm tighter.) After that was done I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the "on" position and brought the fuel injection system under pressure. After about a minute and not seeing any gasoline leaks I stepped away for about 10 more minutes. Upon returning I removed the key and checked all of the fuel hoses under the hood...no leaks anywhere. Tonight, if I get the time, I'll push it out of the garage and start her up - with a fire extinguisher at the ready. If things look good I'll take her for a spin. one question: Will the pressure on the fuel injection system be higher while the engine is running or while revving at high RPMs than while just sitting, engine off, with just the (stock) fuel pump running? I'm assuming that the pressure regulator will keep the pressure at 36.27 psi, but I've been known to be wrong every once in a while.

Stephen, Let me see if I've got this right. When the engine is shut off normally the AFM contact points are left on and the AFM flap is actuated (open at least 8%). If the engine stalls then the AFM flap will close (de-actuate) and the AFM contacts will be off. I was under the impression that the AFM flap was closed whenever the engine was dead and only open while the engine was running. Thus leaving the fuel pump off until the ignition key is turned to the "start" position - opening the AFM flap and setting the contact points to on. Am I misunderstanding this?

I'm pretty sure that the hose that I have is 5/16"...to be honest, I don't think that I looked at the size on the hose - I just looked to make sure that they gave me hose for fuel injection. The hose fit snugly over the fittings, however I pre-lubed the fittings with a small blast of WD-40 to make the going a little easier. I'll check this evening when I get home.

Stephen, I thought that the fuel pump wasn't supposed to switch on until the key had been turned to the "start" position - which would also open the AFM flap, closing the fuel pump contacts. Is my AFM flap stuck open or is this normal? Do I need to lubricate or even clean/rebuild my AFM? Tomo, The fire extinguisher is in the picture next to the door opening...it looks like the extinguisher has a cover of some kind over it - like you would find in an RV or trailer.

For some reason my fuel pump starts pumping the moment that my key reaches the "on" position so there's no need for me to turn the key to the "start" position to get pressure in the fuel line [i'll have to track down that gremlin next.] I checked last night and after running the fuel pump for about two seconds gasoline started spraying out from between the rubber hose and metal tubing at about 4 different places. I can crank down on a couple of the clamps but I think that I'm gonna' have to exchange several for a smaller clamp. Is it possible that the tubes that branch from the fuel rail to the injectors is a slightly smaller gauge than the rest of the connections? Because that's where my leaks seem to be.

Jim, I'll have to pinpoint the leak(s), but I suspect that they may be where the injector hoses meet the fuel rail...for some reason the hose seemed to not fit as tightly as at other locations along the fuel lines. Thanks of the tip about the fire extinguisher - it just never crossed my mind. We have one (new), but I probably need to get it out from under the kitchen sink and keep it near by until I get this fuel leak under hand. For some reason my fuel pump can be heard running once the key is turned to the "on" position (before engaging the starter). I'll set the key to the "on" position and see if I can spot the location(s) of the leak(s) before starting the engine. Thanks, Terry

Kimi, It sounds like someone cut the wires to your reverse switch and connected them together. Look for the wires around the gearbox crossmember and reconncet them to the switch.

Here's my problem: I replaced all of my rubber fuel injection hose under the hood from the fuel inlet pipe to the fuel return pipe. I started the engine and backed it out of the garage leaving a large trail of gasoline (to find my way back into the garage.) I used 5/16" GoodYear SAE J30R9 fuel injection hose and Ideal 52F15V fuel injector hose clamps for 5/16" hose. All of the leaking seemed to be located at the fuel rail/injectors as the heat shield above the exhaust header was soaked. I had turned off the engine before opening the hood so it's kinda hard to pinpoint exactly where the leak was - everything on the driver's side of the engine was wet. Do I have the wrong size hose or clamps? Did I tighten the clamps too tight causing the hose to pucker?

I've already got 8' of GoodYear SAE J30R9 fuel injection hose (max working pressure: 100psi / Burst pressure: 900psi) and 12.7 mm - 14.3 mm fuel injection clamps. I've depressurized and removed the fuel rail and loosened the screws on the injectors - I just wasn't sure of the appropriate way to proceed with removing/replacing the hose from the injectors. Looks like cutting is the best way to go.

I've owned my car (1975 280z) for about three years now and I was told by the previous owner that the fuel injectors had been replaced shortly before I bought it. Recently I smelled more than the usual amount of gasoline vapors, upon opening the hood I noticed that two of the hoses that connect the fuel rail together and one of the hoses that connect the injector to the fuel rail had all sprung leaks. I don't know if the hoses were standard fuel hose, just old or if the clamps were just bad. I can tell that the hoses had all been replaced at some time in the past because all of the clamps had been replaced with the sub-par screw-gear type clamps that cut into the hose. The '75 FSM says to cut or grind the metal socket off the injector to remove the old hose from the injector. The '76 FSM says to use a soldering iron to cut the hose off the injector, leaving the metal socket in place. Many posts mention using a blade (i.e. x-acto) to cut the hose away instead of using a hot soldering iron on fuel soaked parts. Since I own a '75, do I have to use the method described in the '75 FSM, or are the injectors the same on the '75 - '78 (or through '83)? Thanks, Terry

Brett, Can you get under your car and take some pictures of everything? If you can, post pictures of where the control arm attaches to the crossmember, where the compression arm attaches to the body and where the compression arm attaches to the control arm near the wheel. Some good pictures showing how it should go together can be found at: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html *note that there are some pictures showing some shims - if this is where your friend put washers then this would be the first place to start in fixing your problem.

Ken, As far as catalogs that specialized in Z's, could you be thinking of Tweeks (maybe Tweaks)?

overdrivex, judging by your avatar I'd say that it's been more than two months since your last haircut.

If you don't sell the car, you should be able to get the car seat in the car once your son's able to sit in the car with the seat forward mounted (instead of rear-facing.) My son's now 23 months old and he loves to ride in the Z - he threw a fit the other day when he saw me moving the cars in the driveway to get the Z out of the garage and he thought that I was going to go for drive without him. As if. He's my co-pilot - besides it gives his mother a moment of quiet without me or a "two-year-old" in the house.

Zedyone, Srbigbutt, I've PM'd you both.

About the taillights, If you're concerned about the "freshness" of the lenses just disect the one's that you have and clean/polish them. Use the search feature and you'll find threads about the fantastic results that some of our members have had. Besides, it looks like you have the JDM yellow turn lenses on your new purchase - those can get pricey here in the states.

Welcome to the board. I think that in 1974 the displacement changed to 2600cc making it a 260Z, but I'm not sure about the Japanese models. (Wiser Z enthusiasts, please correct me if I'm wrong.) Nor do I know about when the bumpers changed in Japan, but if I were to make a guess I'd say that it's a '75 or '76 model. Mind you, this is all based off of what I know of the U.S. models. Either way, she is a beautiful car and I wish you many years of happiness with your "new" car. Again, welcome to the board.

I can feel "the little green monster" rising within me. She looks great. You have every right to be proud.

I hate to break it to you, but Texas doesn't really have any constitutional right to secede. That's just misinformation that is often take as fact among many Texans - I believed it too, until I did my research. Sorry.