twsutt

I'm sorry, but that horn is from a '77-'78 280Z. I don't think it will fit on the 240Z's steering wheel.

Mike, The rear toe isn't adjustable on our cars. It sounds like something is bent out of wack. Hopefully its just the control arm or the strut assembly - those are pretty easy to replace. I'd suggest that you try to get either a mechanic that's familar with our cars, or one of the many other Florida Z owners to look at it to diagnose where your problem lies.

These guys have the best price that I've found so far. I haven't bought from them yet, but I intend to... http://www.r1concepts.com/ I believe that all the early Zs ('70-'78) used the same brake drum.

Hey Jack T, Welcome to the club. I'm literally just a stone's throw to the south of you. If you ever get the chance you should come to one of the Z Club of Houston's monthly meetings - (Hell, if I ever get a chance I should go to one of the meetings too.) Your car looks great. I hope to get mine looking half as good someday.

"...video is no longer available."

Galaxybj (Bill Jones), It looks like you can change your signature now.

Sorry, Khrys. I just looked at the "Boobs" thread and I see that you have already noticed it. We're not too easily offended here.

Khrystina, You obviously haven't found our site's record-holding, multiple-page post. I think it's around 60 pages now.

Can anyone else verify this? I don't have an original with the key code on it - just two very worn copies. And I can't get the code from inside the glove box lid because the PO cut a large square out of the glove box door. DeesZ, Try holding the handle up while closing the door. If I recall correctly, the owner's manual mentions this.

Tomo, Did you expect anything different from a guy at a "chain store" garage? Hell would have to freeze over before I take my Z to Meineke, Pep Boys, Jiffy Lube (except for a state inspection), Brake Check, etc. The average monkeys that they tend to hire are too ham-fisted to work on any car as classic as a Z. Please tell me that you walked away.

Julio, I love that shade of silver. I've been wanting to do either the Mercedes or BMW silver on my car when I do get around to painting it. I'm doing my restoration/refresh backwards from yours: mechanical first, then interior, paint last. Bottom line, your car is coming along very, very nicely. Congratulations.

mikewags, A new master cylinder will run around $270. A rebuilt master cylinder could be as low as $38.

SoopA, I made a mistake. Try HybridZ.org instead

Steve, What kind of Master Cylinder is that? I'm used to seeing two reservoirs.

SoopA, I think that Hybridz.com might be a better suited forum for you and your needs. Most of the people here are concerned about restoring and improving the driveability of thier classic Zs. Sure you'll find plenty of "go fast" improvements on our cars, but if you want a 300+ HP monster Hybridz.com is the site for you. Your desire to do nothing but make your car go faster and faster will most likely lead to many unanswered posts.

Paul, Don't be too surprised if you don't get too many answers to your post. As you should know by now, the topics of back-spacing, wheel width, coilovers, tiresize, spacers, etc. have been covered extensively. The "Wheels, Tires and Brakes" sub-category is overflowing with info on this subject. Now it's time for you to use the info given here to find the proper mounting of your wheels/tires (and body modification depending on how wide you want to go.) Chances are, your going to have to physically take many, many measurements and then look for, or special order, the spacers/adapters that fit your specific needs. I wish you the best of luck and look forward to seeing pictures once you get your Rota RB's mounted. p.s. - If I come off as rude (which is unintentional) is just because I wish I had a set of Rota RB's on my Z.

I say stick with the stock flat black. Or you can use the special color I have on my car - "32 years of brake dust and road dirt."

Hmmm... It sounds like one of the previous owners converted it to carbs and then it was later converted back to F.I. from a '76 either by the same P.O. or a different one. Either way, it looks like you've got a damn good car. I'd try to use a bit of rubbing compound on that paint to smooth out the clear coat/oxidized paint. She'll look like new in no time. Welcome to z ownership & welcome to the forums.

The car in question is a 1975 280z - Full Size Spare not a collapsable spare like on your 1978. Note that in the first two pictures the imprint in the tar insulation clearly shows where the sidewall made contact (you can even tell that the maker was Bridgestone.) The rust appears to be located where no rubbing took place. It's just a common spot for rust on our Z's - like so many other places.

Woody, I agree with Sailor Bob; it may take some time, but you'll feel better about the job if do it yourself. Besides, it will give you a great opportunity to get to know your car while saving a few dollars. If you do change out the bushings, you should do a search on "spindle pin puller" and either fabricate one of your own or use the loaner program here at classiczcars.com. Believe me, this is an absolute must if you plan on replacing the bushings on the lower control arm. Best of luck and welcome to the board.

I'm sorry about resurrecting an old thread. The outrageousness of it all blinded me and I didn't notice that it was three years old. I usually just let most of TomoHawk's posts just pass on by, but this one astounded me with it's sheer off-the-wallness.

Your knuckles will thank you.

Oh My God!!! Tomo, Are you effing kidding me? What makes you think that anyone has the right to mandate how someone else spends thier money? If they have the money to buy a huge gas-guzzling pig of a vehicle, they are already paying extra taxes every time they fill up at the pump. I love your liberal Robin Hood thinking - Tax the wealthy, they have money to spare. Why don't you think about how those people got all of that money in the first place. By selling a product that people pay for. What do you think that those that produce commodities or goods are going to do if you reduce thier profits??? They'll make up the difference by passing the extra expense on to the consumer. Think. I don't have much money and I'm feeling the crunch already. I don't need people that think like you to run my government. Please tell me that you're just being the Devil's advocate and trying to get a rise out of people.

Then just drill out the sheared bolt and press in a new bolt. I'm not sure about which years are applicable. Some sources say that you need a '75-'78 280z booster, other places say that '73 and up will work. The automatic transmission 280z has a larger (10") booster that won't fit into a standard transmission equipped 280z - I think that the larger booster bumps into the clutch master cylinder. Pull your '73 or '74 booster and see if its firewall bolts line up to the holes in the firewall - the bolts on the earlier 240z's are closer than the the bolts on the 280z's. By the way, prepare to cuss as you're removing the nuts under the dash that hold the booster to the firewall - it's pretty tight on two of the bolts and scrapped knuckles are common.

Ahhh, Stephen. I hate you. I bet that you only have room in your garage for one car because the rest of the space is taken up by tools. If there were a green smiley I'd put one here, because I'm envious.