twsutt

Your knuckles will thank you.

Oh My God!!! Tomo, Are you effing kidding me? What makes you think that anyone has the right to mandate how someone else spends thier money? If they have the money to buy a huge gas-guzzling pig of a vehicle, they are already paying extra taxes every time they fill up at the pump. I love your liberal Robin Hood thinking - Tax the wealthy, they have money to spare. Why don't you think about how those people got all of that money in the first place. By selling a product that people pay for. What do you think that those that produce commodities or goods are going to do if you reduce thier profits??? They'll make up the difference by passing the extra expense on to the consumer. Think. I don't have much money and I'm feeling the crunch already. I don't need people that think like you to run my government. Please tell me that you're just being the Devil's advocate and trying to get a rise out of people.

Then just drill out the sheared bolt and press in a new bolt. I'm not sure about which years are applicable. Some sources say that you need a '75-'78 280z booster, other places say that '73 and up will work. The automatic transmission 280z has a larger (10") booster that won't fit into a standard transmission equipped 280z - I think that the larger booster bumps into the clutch master cylinder. Pull your '73 or '74 booster and see if its firewall bolts line up to the holes in the firewall - the bolts on the earlier 240z's are closer than the the bolts on the 280z's. By the way, prepare to cuss as you're removing the nuts under the dash that hold the booster to the firewall - it's pretty tight on two of the bolts and scrapped knuckles are common.

Ahhh, Stephen. I hate you. I bet that you only have room in your garage for one car because the rest of the space is taken up by tools. If there were a green smiley I'd put one here, because I'm envious.

Bill, which Z-car is this for? The 6/75 that's listed in your signature or one of the others that are listed in your profile - 1971, 1972, 1973 240z's & 1974 260z?

I hate to say it, but I think that your best bet would be to get a new, used or rebuilt brake booster.

Looks fantastic. I might have to go the same route soon, but I'm still working on the mechanics of the car. Wiring and interior are next.

I just (Saturday) put a set of 215/60R14's on my '75 Z with ZX 6-spoke wheels and I love them - I went with the Yokohama Avid T4. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compare1.jsp?width=215%2F&ratio=60&diameter=14&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All&x=84&y=7

Last weekend I finally got a chance to get under the hood and take things apart to see what is causing the leak. The brake lines weren't cross threaded as I had suspected - the problem appears to be that a small amount of rust formed on the end of the brake line fitting causing several small pits. I see that Black Dragon Auto has metric brake lines availble for next to nothing (http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ICATALOG/Z/full.aspx?Page=106). Does anyone happen to know the length of the brake lines from the Master Cylinder to the Brake Switch Assembly? (I'm at work and my Z is in my garage.) If I buy too long of a line, can I put the excess into a corkscrew? Will my brakes be adversely affected by a few extra inches of brake line?

Hey Donna, welcome to the forum. I always love seeing another Texan on the boards. I'm with you, your father should just give Zippy to you - he has another. It'd just be selfish for him to keep them both.

Page 6 has the positive and negative offset reversed from what we use today. Is this a typo, or have things changed since '72? EDIT: Hey Arne, it looks like I'm gonna' have to get up pretty early to beat you to the punch.

I second moonpup's opinion. If you need work done, go to Awesome Z. If you're just looking for parts to pull then Z World is a pretty good place to go.

Have you met today's liberal greenie? They aren't the majority, but they make the most noise and our politicians (from either party) are too poll-driven and love to bow to the noise makers. *this may just be my opinion - I've become a bit jaded with the lack of fortitude and conservatism possessed by our public leaders*

I suggest rolling down the driver's side window and climbing through it. Try removing the interior panel (this will be difficultwith the door shut, but I think it's possible) and operating the locking mechanism from the inside of the door. You may just need to adjust the tension on the rods that connect to the handles. Good luck.

Huh? I'm not seeing it.

Okay, so they didn't take his car, but has he checked to make sure that his mileage doesn't show a bit higher than it should?

How do we know that they didn't usee the "little flashy thing?" Perhaps Lon only remembers what they want him to remember.

Paul, I found that I had the same issues when I used a MightyVac. The only thing that I've found the MightyVac to be good for is suctioning the brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoirs when changing the MC or the brake fluid. I can bleed my brakes - by myself - with 24" of clear tubing and a jar or bottle in just about 15 minutes. I can't see it being any quicker even if I had speed bleeders. Sometimes, the old fashioned way is the best way to get things done.

Tomo, I've seen cruise control in a 280z with a standard transmission before - it looked stock, but may have been aftermarket. The controls were mounted between the shifter and the radio - next to the "fasten seat belt" light and the hazard flasher switch.

240z/260z or 280z? There is a difference.

Try doing an internet search for Monza or Pacesetter exhaust systems.

My '75 has the slot for the choke lever; the '77 I used to own was made without the choke slot. Fun_in_my_Z, I'd trade you, but the console "box" had fingernail polish spilt all over the place by the P.O.

This is probably the most covered topic on these boards. I'll tell you what anyone else will tell you; Use the search feature. Not trying to be rude, but there is no solid, cut-in-stone answer to your question - too many factors. Your best bet is to put on your coil-overs & flares and then take careful measurements. You may want to try searching on hybridz.com also. Best of luck and welcome to the boards.

Now I've seen everything. An Aussie telling a Mexican joke. (And doing a pretty good job at it too...)

3.785411 Litres per gallon(U.S) 1.00 USD = 1.02022 CAD $1.35 CAD / litre * 3.785411 = $5.11 CAD / Gallon (U.S.) $5.11 CAD = $5.00631 USD $5.01 USD / Gallon = OUCH!!!