twsutt

Thanks everyone. I'll remove the MC this evening and hopefully the parts store can have another MC for me by the weekend. I'll post the results once a new (rebuilt) MC is installed.

If the secondary piston (rear brakes) of the master cylindar was shot would that keep me from being able to "pump up" pressure in the brake system when the engine is off? I guess the easiest way to tell would be to exchange the MC for another. -Terry

David, it's looking great. I've been thinking about changeing my interior from black to light gray, but I haven't had the courage to attempt it yet. It looks like pretty uniform. I've been afraid that it would look like spray paint. Any trouble applying the die? It doesn't look like you have any of the runs that I usually get when using spray paint - I tend to lay it on to heavy (must work on paitence.) Don't forget to post pics of the final product. And keep up the good work.

The rear master cylinder bleeder screw isn't clogged - fluid comes through when suction is applied. No fluid comes through the screw when the pedal is pressed. I didn't know if this was a pushrod length problem or bad master cylinder (or the dreaded reacton disk issue.)

DatsunZGuy, Those wheels look great. I'm about to do the same thing to mine. The need is there... What kind of paint remover/stripper would you guys suggest? DatsunZGuy said that he used a gel-type stripper, has anyone had success using anything else? Brand names please. Thank you, Terry

The brakes work - barely. I've pulled out of the garage and back into the garage (about 2-3 mph) and the brakes were enough to stop the car. I had my hand on the parking brake just in case I couldn't stop. No hoses or wheel cylinders were changed. I think the part that concerns me most is that no fluid comes out of the rear bleeder screw (furthest fom the firewall - marked "R") on the master cylinder when the pedal is pressed.

I've just replaced my Brake Booster and Master Cylinder. The push rod is adjusted to 9mm past the aluminum (not aluminium) spacer. I bench bled the Master Cylinder with with a vacuum bleeder (mityvac) but when I try to bleed the rears I get nothing just an air tight vacuum - according to the pressure gauge on the mityvac and the sound when the hose is removed from the bleeder screw. (Yes, I loosened the newly teflon wrapped bleeder screws.) So I tried using the tube into a jar while pressing on the brake pedal - nothing. I placed the jar and hose on the Master Cylinder rear bleeder screw (furthest from the firewall) and pressed the brake pedal - nothing again. I placed the jar and hose on the front bleeder screw (closest to the firewall) and pressed the pedal - brake fluid smoothly moved bubble-less through the hose into the jar. The engine was running and the pedal went all the way to the stop (not technically the floor) with the same resistance whether any of the bleeder screws were open or not and the "brake" light on the speedo would light at the pedal's full extension. When the engine is off the brake pedal's resistance is the same and the pressure can't be "pumped up." Then brakes worked before, but the Brake Booster was hissing and the braking was very soft - I couldn't lock the brakes up on smooth pavement. Did I get a bad Master Cylinder? Do I have the push rod misadjusted? I don't think that it's a slipped reaction disk, because the front brakes can be bleed at both the wheels and the Master Cylinder. Anyone have any Idea what my problem is - other that that my brake don't work? (That is not an invitation for a smart-a$$ remark.):tapemouth Any help is appreciated. Thanks. ~Terry

Please tell me that you're joking.

Sweet! I'd settle for the MID4.

Great! Now you tell me. Oh well, I guess that I'll probably get to re-do everything within three months. At least brake fluid is dirt cheap.

MEZZZ, Isn't TomoHawk in your neck of the woods?

Brian, Could you post a picture of the "reveal" for those that so adamantly refused to believe that this number was anything but an anomaly. Alan, It would seem that you were right about the most important part - that Brian would get to the bottom of things. Thanks, Terry

What shipping plugs? It didn't come with any shipping plugs. It did come with a bench bleeding kit that consisted of two green plastic nipples and two pieces of clear tubing (about 4" long) that's too short to use for bleeding even without the plastic resevior cups attached - which have to be reused from the old master cylinder. *Things to remember if buying a rebuilt MC made by Cardone from Advance Auto Parts.*

Nissanman - thanks for the diagram. Okay, Stop Bolt, keeps the pistons from travelling too far. Arne - thanks for the pushrod response. I matched the pushrod on the new booster to that of the old booster. Hopefully, this should work fine - if it needs adjustment I won't be too far off to begin with. One other question: After bench bleeding, how does one remove the bleeder hoses from the bottom and attach the brake hoses without the brake fluid leaking out rendering the bench bleeding useless? I haven't done this yet and don't know if I'm asking a stupid question or not. It just seems like gravity would make the brake fluid leak out or is it like holding one's thumb over one end of a drinking straw to keep liquid from draining out?

Darbji, Sorry to hear about your accident, but we're all glad to know that you're alright. Now was that Cassio or Nitro?

Congratulations on getting back into the Z game. She's a beautiful car - especially at 75K original miles!

Yesterday I changed my Brake Booster and 7/8" Master Cylinder (both rebuilt). I set the pushrod on the new Booster to the same length as the old Booster. The new MC isn't the same manufacturer as the old MC. One is Nabco the other is Tokico - I just don't remember which is which. The old MC had the bleeder screws on the fender side (left) while the new MC has the bleeder screws on the engine side (right). Does anybody know if the pushrod distance should differ any for the different makers of Master Cylinders? And what is the flat-head screw on the side of the MC for/do? Thank you, Terry

Nick, Congratulations. She's a beaut. And $2750! I'm jealous. What kind of mileage does she have on her?

Darbji, Do you have any more information about the H.I.D.s that you've got installed? Brand & Model #? Thanks,

Why is this interesting?

I used to own a red '77 280z 2+2 with a standard transmission that started its life with gold paint and "off-white" interior.

A Z-car is special performance edition.

Now Miles. You know that common sense and politicians don't mix...It could prevent them from bilking us out of our hard earned dollars.