cbudvet

It should. The early 240z didn't have the lighter on the dash but there shouldn't be any difference from late 71 through 73. Good luck. carl

Wow, they look really good. I too am anxious to hear how they turn out. Let us know. carl

I actually never thought about that. That could be a good option. I am sure a small strip of leather wouldn't be that expensive. Hmmmmm. Thanks. carl

I know this was brought up recently and I even commented on this problem but last night it happened to me! I am preparing my dash to go to Dashboard Restorations and in the process snapped the hinge on the glove box door. I have ordered a plastic piano hinge that can be cut down to size and hopefully I can modify it to fit. I am not sure if I will try to use something like epoxy or try to use screws to hold it in place. My concern with the epoxy would be that it would become brittle or not hold up over time. Will let you know when I figure something out. carl

On my 1969-70 car, there was nothing along those areas to help with potential rattles. On my 71 parts car, it appeared to be a tar like substance. It was almost 1/8" thick. As posted above, the main concern is the potential to trap moisture and lead to a rust problem. I don't have a specific suggestion but I would look for something that is waterproof and tightly adhered to the underlying metal. You might check with a local body shop???? Good luck. Hopefully someone will have better advice. carl

You guys are way ahead of me. Started with a 69 AMC Rambler (great car but transmission always slipped) 81 Jeep 83 Camaro 86 Chevy Blazer s-10 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee 1969-70 Datsun 240z 2002 Land Rover Discovery 1992 Chevy Silverado 2006 Volvo S-40 T5 AWD (loved it but needed a bigger car) 2006 Mercedes ML-500 (apart from the 240z my favorite to date) carl

Holy macaroni! Thats a lot of miles. It looks like its in great shape too. If it is truly that high, your dad has taken good care of the car. carl

Wow, SWEEEEETTT!!!! I may have to knock off the local Kwiki Mart. Seriously though, it may be something to think about. Do you know when MSA will start selling them? carl

Wow, thats going to keep you busy for a while. Best of luck. Can you do your own welding? It looks like its going to need a lot. This is a great site to get advice and help on anything z related. carl

So it is! I missed the one picture on the left rear that makes it easier to see the white. Sweet! carl

You can't beat the results. It looks nice. Post some more pictures when you get all the coats of paint on and then when you have it buffed out. I am sure it is going to look great. What color is it? It was hard to tell. Sort of looks light silver blue? carl

Mike, Don't worry about any kind of refund. I still feel they were more than worth it. I thank you again for the effort you made. I spoke with my brother this evening and he expressed some major reservation about using nylon. His experience with using nylon to manufacture small pieces and clips has been that they are extremely sensitive to the environment and become very brittle. He still feels that delrin would make a better product. Anyway, he is going to have a clip made and then we can put it through its paces and see how it holds up. I should have an answer Monday as to what kind of expense I will run into. More updates as events warrant. carl

John, If I can get a copy of the cad drawing from my brother, you are more than welcome to it. I agree with you Keith, I wasn't sure if the aluminum would work. I would think it would be too rigid. I will keep pestering my brother for progress and material ideas. He and his wife are expecting their first child soon so he is pretty busy right now. I will post more info as I get it. In terms of cost, my brother gave me the impression that it wouldn't be a bulk deal and that each piece would cost the same no matter how many were made. We will see. carl

Hi everyone, So....about a couple of years ago, someone here made some reproduction inspection lid clips (I can't remember who but I cant thank them enough). I just had one break and consulted my brother (design engineer) about making a replacement. He had two possible suggestions and I thought I would run it by everyone here. The first plan was to have him machine them out of a different type of plastic that in his opinion works and lasts much longer than the material these were made from. I can't remember what it was exactly. It was something called Delwin? (trade name) and he can have it made from a solid piece of material instead of using a mold. After talking with the shop guys, someone suggested using aluminum. My brother works for a big company and has access to water jets and all sorts of machines. He made a 3d cad model and the shop guys thought it was very doable. I don't have an idea of price but what do people think? Would aluminum hold up longer than a plastic type material or just go with the original suggestion of a plastic type? If anyone needs some, it shouldn't be any problem to make more. Just let me know. Hopefully he will let me know about the price soon. carl

For re-chroming the tail light trim I don't think it would be to expensive. Considering they aren't made anymore, I may look into it. carl

So does being drunk help with your electrical wiring skills? I can't even do that stuff sober! Good luck with the project. Let us know how it works out. carl

One alternative I thought of would be replacing it with a piano type hinge. I am at work and cant look at my glovebox but you can purchase hinges in different size length and widths, with or without holes. Mcmastercarr.com has a variety of hinges for all kinds of applications. There may be more sources, this is just what I know. carl

Bummer! Thats a tough fix because it is a plastic hinge that just flexes along a joint and not a typical hinge. I have wondered about the same thing because its 40 year old plastic and my is starting to split some. I have not seen any new ones. I don't have any suggestions yet but will check with my brother who is a design engineer and may be able to help. Good luck carl

That's pretty cool! What plans to you have for future additions? It was nice to have the list of vendors. Helps a lot. Keep up the good work. carl

I think it looks really nice. I don't think the valve color or the other changes make it look over the top at all. It will really make the engine and engine bay look beautiful. Good luck and as always, post more pictures. We can't get enought!!!! carl

I was looking at Motorsport auto at the reproduction retracting seatbelts to see what they were like. They do say that for 70 and 71 models, you have to drill a hole in the floor. Bummer. carl

Well crap! Thanks John. At least I'm not going for a concourse restoration. carl

There is a difference in the ball joints from the early years to later years. I have a 69 240z and when I went to purchase new ones from MSA, I was told that they no longer make ball joints for my car. The ball joints that are sold are for the 280z and require replacement of the control arms to fit. So.... I had to replace both the ball joints and control arms I hope this helps. Don't know about the grease fitting. Good luck. carl

I don't think there are any simple solutions. Nobody makes a replacement aftermarket harnesses like they do for other cars. I recently thought I would have to replace the entire harness but after looking it over I just re-wrapped it and had to replace a few wires that were spliced from the PO. There are services out there that can rebuild a wire harness from scratch but that can get really expensive. I agree with Steve, is there a specific problem you are having that makes you think you need a new harness? When I started to take mine apart, I was amazed at the overall simplicity of it. It may only be a few wires that need to be fixed. Good luck. carl

My bad, they are 149.95 for the replacement panel.