jharvat

OK, I'm an idiot. I managed to shear off both bolts holding the water outlet to the thermostat housing on my '73 240. My question - are the holes in that top part threaded? I saw one on EBay and it appears they are not. If they are not threaded, should I be able to pop that top part off? If I am really that lucky, it should expose the remaining part of the bolts and I should be able to get a vice-grip on them. Thanks for any info you can provide!

Thanks for the response, Carl! I thought that might be the case but I wasn't sure.

I was getting ready to remove my alternator tonight so I started by disconnecting the wiring. Unfortunately, the brittle wire for the condenser snapped off in my hand. I assume that you can buy replacements but is there a specific type I need to ask for? Not sure if all condensers are created equal or not. Here's a pic of the one on my car before I trashed it. Thanks for any help you can provide.

PM sent - thanks!!!

I need the passenger-side black plastic air duct that mounts in the corner next to the radiator for a '73 240z. If you have one that you'd be willing to part with, please PM me. As long as it's not melted or badly cracked, I'd definitely be interested. Thanks!

Did any 240z ever come with a manual antenna? I had a guy send me an antenna that he said was from an early Z. The fender mounting hardware looks about right but this is a manual antenna that scopes down to about 16 inches high. Any idea what I've got here?

That thread is 3 years old but I'll give it a try.

Is anyone reproducing 240z gas tank straps?

I was rooting around in the old threads here in the forum and came across more than one post that said that, for the most part, you really don't need to choke Weber carbs. The entries were from a few years back and I was wondering if that is still the consensus. Also, if anyone has a '73 240z with triple Webers, I'd be interested to see how you've got the choke cable hooked-up. Thanks!

Just to follow up, after liberal application of WD40, I was able to get a needle-nosed vice-grips on the end of the sheared screws and actually backed them out. As silly as it may sound, that was a pretty satisfying feeling when the last one twisted free. Of course, two days later, I was trying to remove one of the bolts on the engine thermostat housing. It snapped like a twig. So, the victory didn't last long. Oh well, back to the easy-out.

I have several screw holes in the inner fender wells of my 240z's engine compartment. A couple of them are probably related to a long-departed air conditioning unit. As for the others, they seem to be the product of some unknown activity by previous owners. In a perfect world, I would have them all welded shut. As for now, however, I wonder if any of you have found a source for plastic or rubber studs (for lack of a better term) that could be used to securely fill the holes. All help is appreciated!

After I started this thread, I found some very old posts in another part of the forum that talked about how inacessible that back plate was. The thing I was worried about was that once I removed all the screws, the back plate would fall and I'd never get to it. However, it appears that, while the plate can move for adjustments, it can't fall. I think I will take your advice and use the one good screw hole to stabilize the back plate. Then I'll see if I can use an easy-out to remove the broken screws. If not, drilling and retapping will be Plan B. Thanks!

The door striker on the driver's side of my 1973 240z need help. It's secured by one nut, the rest sheared off at some point in the car's history. Well, I decided to start working on it tonight and removed the one good nut then removed the striker and its component pieces. I see, however, that the assembly was screwed into something on the inside of the door frame. So do I need to remove that little dog-leg interior panel to get to all that hardware? What's the safest way to do that? Anyone have any pictures of what I can expect to see on the backside of that door frame? Any assistance on this is appreciated. S

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My 73 240 has triple Webers on it. The previous owner who added these did next to nothing with all of the ventilation hoses coming from the block that used to hook up to the original manifold and carbs. So right now, I have a hose coming out of the front driver's side of the block (under the distributor) that connects to nothing. Can this hose be blocked or does it need to be vented like the one coming out of the valve cover? Thanks!

Thanks, Steve. My '73 received a triple Weber set-up sometime in its past so the next question is, does the relay even do anything anymore. I don't think I want to get rid of it but I definitely need to do something to clean it up. Right now it looks like it came off the set of an Indiana Jones movie.

OK - this item is on the firewall of my 73 240z, on the passenger side near the battery. As you can see it is looking every bit of its 39 years. My question - what is it and what does it do? Thanks for any help you can provide!

Thanks for the quick responses, guys. I'll definitely try the lithium grease.

I want to take apart the throttle linkage on my 73 240 to clean it up and replace the rubber firewall boot. The dumb question: Do those little ball and socket joints just pop apart? I tried to get them apart but they didn't yield to medium pressure. I didn't want to break anything so I thought I better ask before I tried to strong-arm them. Thanks, in advance, for your answers!

Thanks for the heads-up on the condenser near the coil. I do have one attached to the resistor with a wire that goes back to the coil. If I did want to replace that, is it the same type of condenser that is used on the distributor? I've never seen it in any of the parts catalogs.

Again, pardon my ignorance but, in the top drawing, what is GW and BW - is that the color of the wire (green and white, blue and white?)? What gauge wire is proper for these connections? Again, if someone has an actual picture of this set-up, I would appreciate them posting it. It's like the picture on the box of a jigsaw puzzle - I want to know what it is supposed to look like when it's done. Thanks to anyone who can help!

I am trying to go back to a stock coil and resistor set-up on my 73. A previous owner balled-up the wiring for these - looks like he used a piece of an old table lamp power cord to hook things up. I was hoping that someone could snap a picture of their stock set-up so that I know what the wiring ought to like like. Can anyone help?

Stumbled across the thread and posted before I saw the last entry was six years old. Sorry.

Back in the 80s, I used "KAMIKA Z".

I am amazed at how much trouble I am having locating a store that sells M6X1.25 screws. Everyone has M8s but no M6s. The Nissan dealership was useless. Likewise with the hardware stores I've contacted. BTW, the auto parts stores have all their license plate screws packaged and the package doesn't say the size of the screw or the cars that it fits. I even went out onto the Hillman Fastener website and everything they show for M6 has a 1.0 thread pattern. I feel like an idiot because I can find a stupid screw - can anyone name a specific store or supplier where they've found these things?