jharvat

I noticed you have a ProMaster Coil. I just have a stock unit. Do I have to go with a different coil too?

It is a Unilite.

I have scanned through the various Mallory threads but didn't find exactly what I was looking for so bear with me if I am covering old ground here. I just purchased a Mallory distributor with a mechanical advance for my 1973 240 running triple Webers. I currently have a stock dizzy, stock coil, ballast resistor, etc. Leading to the distributor, I have three wires - yellow going to the water temp sensor, a black wire and a green wire both attached to the dizzy. The green wire seems to just attach to the outside of the unit (ground?). Can I just run the black and green wire into the new Mallory unit with no further changes (keep all the other components the same)? I constantly hear about people who do and do not have tach problems - have we reached a consensus on whether this is a consistent problem? Is there a fix for it? I haven't actually received the Mallory unit yet - can I expect decent instructions from them? Thanks for any information you can provide. (Note: Car is a 4-speed currently with a single-point distributor)

Carl - is that true for everyone's red seat covers or just the ones Les is offering? I hate to spend the money and get something that doesn't accurately reflect the look of the originals.

Gave him a call but went right to voice mail. I'll wait until things calm down a bit out there on the left coast. Thanks!

OK, apparently I wasn't looking in the right place on the Motorsport site. They actually sell a tiny little hex screw for 50 cents that is supposed to fit a 70-71 car. My understand is that there are three different choke knobs and (I believe) different levers that take different screws. So, not sure if it would fit the lever on my '73 or not. I wouldn't mind taking a chance on it if they didn't tack a $6 shipping charge on it. Guess I'll wait and bundle it into a bigger shipment.

I am looking for the little screw that holds the choke handle onto the lever for a 73 Z. It's an M3 screw but all the ones I can find have screw-heads too big to fit into the inset. Any ideas?

I was interested in his seat cover/foam bundle. I think the price is $405 but I assumed that was for black. I was wondering what the price was for red. Does he have a phone number or is it strictly via e-mail?

Has anyone done business with Classic Datsun Motorsports lately? I've sent them messages but haven't gotten a response. Are they still in business?

Don't want to derail the thread but where can you source the little screw that holds the plastic choke handle onto the lever mechanism?

I know this is an absolutely ancient post but finding it was absolute magic for my blood pressure.

Well, the motor didn't even make a peep. Tried the wires both ways and it did nothing. Guess it may require a little exploratory surgery .

Thanks, guys, I will give that a try tomorrow. I'll report back with the results.

Latest in my seemingly endless supply of dumb questions. I found an original power antenna for my 240 but the antenna mast is fully extended. Is there a way to manually retract the antenna so I can install it on my car? Hmmm... there's a joke in there somewhere about "If your antenna remains extended for longer than four hours, please seek medical attention..." Seriously, any insights are appreciated!

I am running triple Webers being fed by the front outlet on a stock 240 fuel rail. The rear outlet currently sports a short stub of fuel line closed off by a bolt held in by a hose clamp. Yes, it works but it just seems a little ham-fisted. I'm looking for a feng shui solution here, guys. Can anyone think of a more elegant, non-destructive way to close off that unneeded outlet? Thanks!

DJ, turns out you are correct. Advanced Distributor also recommended that I not hook-up the vacuum advance with the triple Webers. So, I will just leave well enough alone.

OK, now back to my usual dumb questions. Where exactly did the vacuum control hose originally run - from the distributor to... where? My thought is that it probably attached to the stock intake manifold someplace, but I've got a triple Weber setup on the car so I need an alternative spot to make the connection (short of running the hose all the way to the rear section of the intake manifold, which is where the previous owner had put it). Any ideas?

For my particular distributor, they charged $200. But they returned to me a little jewel - it makes the rest of the car look bad. Turnaround time was about 2 weeks from my mailing it to them to me getting it back in the mail - so pretty quick considering the quality of work done. Gary - thanks for the advice on the ground wire. As you say, it couldn't hurt to ground it.

Just an update - I ended up sending my distributor to Advanced Distributor and they did a really awesome job on the rebuild. I have one question though. They sent it back with a little spade connector attached to the top screw that holds on the vacuum control. Their note said that it was for a ground wire. I looked in the Shop manual for a 1973 Z and it shows no such connector. Was AD mistaken on that? If not, how should I run a ground wire for it?

I'll give Rock Auto a call tomorrow. They have it on their website (but then again, so does O'Reilly's). Rock's price is about twice what O'Reilly's advertised but, if they actually have one, it might be worth the difference in labor saved. Thanks everyone!

It appears that the supply of reasonably-priced rebuilt 240 distributors has dried-up (lots of people advertise the < $100 Cardone rebuilt ones but, as far as I have been able to determine, they really aren't in stock). So I am wondering if there is such a thing as a distributor rebuild kit? The usual suspects don't seem to offer one. Also, I went looking through the forums to see if anyone had ever documented a distributor refurbishment but I didn't find any. Anyone have any easy-to-follow instructions? Thanks!

I've got the front part of my 1973's engine torn apart and I am wondering if anyone out there knows of anything that will dissolve the residual pieces of old gasket that seem to have atomically bonded with the timing cover and various other parts. Obviously, I'd need something that won't hurt aluminum. Any ideas?

Just an update to all who responded, a rubber mallet and a stiff 1-inch putty knife did the trick. I was able to remove the top part of the thermostat housing without damage and was then able to use a vice-grip pliers to remove the sheared bolts. Thanks to all who provided their insights!

I started picking at it last night and the water outlet isn't going to budge easily. Some prior owner put liberal amounts of adhesive on the gasket so it's stuck tight. I was thinking about trying to tap a thin, flat-head screwdriver into the gap between to see if I can pry them apart but I stopped, wondering if I'll damage the aluminum that way. I may try heating it first to soften up the adhesive. I then may try a putty knife rather than a screwdriver. Walt - there seem to be a number of pieces of the 240z that are good for the 70-72 but not for the 73. I'm hoping I can preserve the bottom half of that housing. Worst case, the top half may be expendable.,