Ramses

Electronic distributor or points? There is a thread in this section. When I asked for help. I will try to take some photos of my setup today and post them later. I have a 73. Chuck

Does anyone have those for a '73 240? It would be nice to have. Thanks Chuck

The paint looks really good, congrats to you on the prepwork. Looks really good, am I mistaken or is that gold, to match your seats? Or is that my computer? Chuck

Thanks Carl, I was wondering what those two relays were. I removed them, because I thought they were redundant. They also were not on my wiring diagram. I appreciate it. I will check next summer to see if I need them. Otherwise I will remove the additional wire and use the wires supplied to the harness near the pump. Chuck

Hey, I was doing some work underneath my car and I discovered an electrical wire coming from an electrical fuel pump. The wire is twisted around the wires for the reverse light, so it is not hooked up. Also when I was playing around with it I hooked it up and it works. It makes a thumping noise that you can hear outside the car, but not inside when it is running. I have put about 200 miles on since the refresh and was starting to do the bushings and bearings, it seemed to run quite well without the electrical fuel pump. I know that the electrical fuel pump was an aftermarket or dealer item for the '73, but why would they put it on while the manual one works perfectly fine? Should I reconnect it, or leave it disconnected? The rear wiring harness has a wire that looks like it goes to it, but if I connect it to the harness it gets no power, so the only choice to power it is to follow the drive chain and connect it to the secondary wire off the starter. It does not look good, but not that many people will be looking at my car from underneath the car. Any Suggestions?

oops your profile is updated, sorry

I think I had the same problem with my '73. I had the dash out during a refresh and I noticed that the relay was only allowing my hi speed blower to work. I found a yard that had a couple on junk cars and replaced and it works fine. Update your profile and tell us where you live and perhaps someone near you can tell you where to find a new accessory relay.

10/72 hls30 127515 I know she is not rare, but she is turning into a good looker. I havent named her yet.

mc75z, The best place to get an electrical diagram is from a shop manual. The clymer and hayes manuals stink. Their information is inaccurate. If you can find a shop manual by Datsun or Nissan, they are much more accurate.

Thanks for the reply. Are there two buzzers? I thought there was only one. The door switches work perfectly fine. The dome light works well. The sensor in the passanger seat has been removed because it was broken. I thought that I have wired it incorrectly. I had merge 6 wiring harnesess to make 3. Chuck

Hi again, My 73 is starting to look and run really good. I have a small question. I have a buzzer. When I plug it in, start the car, put on my seatbelt and put it in gear, the buzzer is going off. I think the buzzer should only be going off when the seat belt is light is illuminating. The light turns off when I put my seat belt on, but the buzzer keeps going. Am I missing something? I have it currently unplugged, but I would like to keep it, because it came with the car. Any ideas? Ramses

Yeah, That is more expensive than redoing mine. Thanks for the link though. Chuck

Hey, I was wondering if there is a source for new chrome bumpers for my 73 240z. The bumper align guys want 600.00 each to straighten and recrome. There has to be a better source for these things. Any help. I tried Motorsport, but the entire package without the overriders is over 1k. They are also the European style. TIA Chuck

Sawdust2000, I had the exact same problem on my 73. The timing is the 1st thing you should check. This is what I learned form these forums and from talking to 3 mechanic friends of mine. Remove your spark plugs. Remove your valve cover. You should be able to turn your motor over by hand. Turn it till the heels of the first two valves closest to the front of the car are at 10 oclock and 2 aclock respectively. That means that the 1st cylinder in under compression and neither valve is opened. Replace valve cover and spark plugs. Remove the distributor cap. The rotor is pointing to spark plug #1. The firing order is 1-5-3-2-6-4. Move counter clockwise on the distributor cap and connect the spark plug wires to each corresponding spark plug. Replace cap and start the car. If you look at the distributor there should be a several markes next to the adjusting plate that has an A on one side and an R on the other with several slash marks inbetween. The marks are towards the front of the car. Line the mark on the distributor exactly dead center to the marks on the adjusting plate. Start the car. Take a phillups screwdriver and loosen the adjusting screw, located towards the rear of the car on the distributor, and twist the distributor a bit towards the advance side. The car should idle a bit more and no longer backfire through the carbs. You will need to use a timing light on your new timing mark on the crank pully, but this should get you running pretty smoothly. If the problem still exhists, then it is something to do with you fuel system. Good luck and use these forums, they have been very helpful to me. Chuck

Duffman, I had something similar happen to my 73. After tracing the wiring through the entire car and merging 6 wiring harnesses to make 3. I found out that my problem was the lack of connection from my dash wiring harness to the steering column switch. My combo-switch had 3 loose solder points and was real easy to fix. It just took about 3 weeks of replacing alot of electrical parts before I came to that conclusion. Good luck

The carberators are the round su type. I cleaned them out yesterday and tried to advance the timing and found the bolt that holds the distributor to the adjusting plate was missing. It was real easy to time, but it would not stay timed. I pulled the distributor and got the bolt out with several easy outs. Fixed the problem And now runs great. My windshield and back window are being re-installed today, then I am at a stopping point. Seats then carpet and a major cleaning job. I have been working on her for about 6 months. Thanks again

I just got my 73 started after 1.5 yr in restore process. I have replace the ignition. Cleaned out the carbs and fuel lines. Did this b4 I took her apart. She starts up perfectly, but will backfire through the carberators through accelleration. Is this a timing issue or a fuel issue. Otherwise she seems to run fine.

I just had a similar problem with my '73. I have come to believe that the hays and clymer manuals stink. I have each. I spent about $75 on a copy of a shop manual and have found it invaluable.

I figured it out and got my car started. I guess the two wires are redundant. I traced them back into the harness and they attach at different points to other wires that are part of the primary ignition. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the information about the electic dizzy. Sry about not knowing the shortened lingo. I really did not want to spend the money on a new distributor yet. I am already spending way too much on restoring. Body work and paint. Yes the black wire with the green strip and plain black wire in the engine bay next to the distributor, when the wiring harness terminates. Both of the wiring harnesses that I have have these two wires in them. They are not on either of the three wiring diagrams that I have. Chuck

I resolder the points. I have a way, I think to fix the rear window. The black green wire and the extra black wire come out of the wiring harness at the same time all the other ignition wires do. They are not on my wiring diagrams either. What is an electronic dizzy?

The main issue with a 73 240z dash is the wiring harness. If you replace the dash and the harness for any other year the plugs that connect to the rest of the car ie. the engine bay harness and the body harness will not fit. I have a 1973 and harnesses are difficult at best to find. They do not exchange with any other year model. The 70 to 72 dashes do not have the cigarette lighter in the dash, it is in the console. I replaced my dash w/ a 71 dash and had to make a new hole for the cig lighter in the dash.

Oh yeah, There is a man named Ken in the houston area that has over 15 240z, 4 260z, and several 280z sitting in a yard being either pulled apart for parts or for sale. I have found him very helpful in my endevours in trying to get my car back together. The next 240z that I try to tackle will probably be one of his.

Hey guys. The wiring diagram and the accecory relay that I found in a junk yard all have 2 blue wires going to it. The both show the relay being grounded to the case of the relay. There were 3 loose solder joints on the comb switch, which the previous owner tried to seal with electrical tape. Your input has been very helpful, everything electrical works, even the rear window defrost, except for 2 wires going across the back window. The last thing that I am dragging on getting my car to start after being down for over 1 yr is the secondary or primary ignition. It seems that I have an extra 2 wires going to the ignition system. 1 black/white wire connecting to the resistor, one green/white wire to resistor, one black white wire to +coil, one black wire to -coil and -distributor, one yellow wire to temp sending switch. Still have extra no voltage black wire, 12.5 volt black/green wire, left over and not on my wiring diagram. I have tried connecting the black/green wire to ignition with the black/white wire, thinking that it was similar to an electronic ignition, but that did not work. My issue is now that I have it properly timed, the firing seqence in order, replaced the points, plugs, coil, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor head. I am getting spark to all plugs, just not enough to start the car. I am not sure what to do. I know that it did run quite well before I tore it apart. I just had a thought. Could the temp sending switch cause this? Dazed and confused.

Then the diagram is not for a 1973. The 73 only has 3 wires going to it.