Ramses

Thanks for bumping this again. I was thinking about the KYB struts and the Eibach springs from MSA. Much cheaper than the Euro-springs from Courtesy. The reason I need to replace the struts and springs is because my passenger rear bottoms out and rides about 1.5" lower than the drivers side. With me being a fat*&S you would think that the opposite would be the case. I also need to replace the end links, which may be in the bushing kit that I will buy next week, ball joints and the entire rack. Anyone know someone that rebuilds manual racks cheaper than MSA? Thanks again

STOP, don't use WD40. It may work for a while, but after some time the problem comes back and even worse. WD40 gums up after time. There is a black powder that you can use that is designed for locks. I can not remember what it is called. It is something like "lithease". It does not gum up after time.

Mine 10/72, still needs work. Keep the bumpers and and fix them up. I would suggest not taking them off unless you plan on getting the body kits that are available so you can paint them the same color as your car.

Depends on what is wrong with the 240. Check for rust...Floor pans, frame rails, fender wells, between rear hatch and tail lights. If is completely rust free, runs great with no mechanical issues, everything works, has original radio, low miles, suspension and drive train is perfect then maybe $7500 or more in Texas. I am not sure about the northwest. There are some other folks on this board that live in the area that will tell you about the market up there. There are a lot of 240's that could be better deals, if you are mechanically inclined and if you are willing to put some time and effort into her. I have a '73 which is not original, but I have repaired all the rust, engine runs strong, but I still need to address the suspension and due to a divorce I tried to sell her about 2 months ago and the highest bid I got was $5400. I would suggest doing some more patient research and go look at all of potential candidates. Oh and welcome to the board

40 in Houston. Been here since my '73 was born. Owned my first z in '82. When I drive my "new" Z, I feel like I am back in high school.

Derk, The body shop that I took my '73 to in Houston took just about 1 year. That time was spent by me removing everything from the car...to make it a rolling chassis, and allowed me the time to find parts that needed to be replaced. They also allowed me the space to work on her for that period of time. My time was not that well spent, because I still need some suspension and steering work done to her. The extra time was used to bring the price of the body work down. They only worked on her when they did not have any insurance jobs...their bread and butter. Jose, the body man, even came in on the weekends to help me put her back together. Good luck.

It may have something to do with the car being cold. I am not an expert, but my '73 does the same thing for the 1st 5 minutes of running after a long sleep. It does not happen when I start it while still warm, only after being parked for over 4 hours. That is the main reason that I start my car, let it idle while I smoke a cigarette, then I drive her after she has had time to warm up. I may have something else wrong with her, but it seems to work.

Cethern, That was weird. I use Mozilla and your link to your gallery was the first time that Mozilla did not start a new browser. Hmmm

Mikew, my '73 is the same as your...water stains and all.

I have a '73 with a build date of 10/72. You should remember that the wiring harness also changed. The '73 had bigger connectors. It also had the lighter in the dash, not in the console...I think. It is a bastard year, when trying to find used parts. You must be specific about the build date when ordering parts.

i agree with Beandip. When I was putting my '73 back together, I had the same issue. When I went through what beandip suggested to you, here is what I noticed: It would turn over pretty easily; It was getting fuel to the carbs; I was getting spark, but not that intense. I thought it was strange. After about 4 days removing and replacing stuff, I removed one of the wires on the retard side of the distributor and put it where it belongs on the distributor and she fired right up...Surfsup your problem could be as simple as a loose wire somewhere on the primary or secondary ignition. Good luck and keep us informed.

Exactly 1 year ago. I wish I could have bought one from Houston...I guess you took the last one here.

Astrohog, I removed everything except engine and wheels. The dash was easy, because I labeled everything. I could imagine if I did not label anything, then I could get confused. I had no choice when it came to the interior. My floors were pretty much gone. I had to replace, so I pulled everything. This is a link that shows how far I went. I actually removed most of the other items that I forgot later. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25371 Good luck

Astro hog, I am 6'5". My torso is long and my legs are normal. The only thing I had to do after I finished my seats was pull the seat forward slightly and recline it a bit more. It took a whopping 2 minutes to get accustomed to it. I would imagine that after a long road trip the configuration would get uncomfortable, but I am not concerned about that as of yet. Good luck

I got my rear brake light gaskets from MSA. I am not sure if they were "Genuine Nissan", but they seemed to fill every cranny that was there. BTW what part of New Zealand are you from? My ex is from Wellington. We spent 3 weeks there 2 years ago. Most beautiful country that I have been in.

Your local auto glass will probably not have one. At least they did not in Houston. I had to order mine from out of town. not that big of a deal, but it took me a couple of days to get that burned into my brain.

This is just silly. Stick with the plugs...you may need them later. Not to terribly expensive either.

I agree with all of the posts here. I purchased my '73 over 5 years ago. I have over 10k into her and I am still not done. I just recently went through a divorce and tried to sell her and the largest offer I got was $5400.00. I have decided to keep her (because I love these cars) and finish what I have started. I still need a storage place, but I am working on that. I would make a suggestion...do not get into these cars unless you love them. You wont make any money on them unless you hold onto them for years and years and years. Good luck

I had the same issue with the weather stripping I got from Too Intense. The Doors would not close all the way at the bottom rear end of of the door. I just took a couple of months of use and adjustment of the door for me to adjust it properly.

I agree with Arne about this issue. I do however have an armrest...the same one that you linked in your last post. I am a big person and it is nice to put my arm on the rest while in between shifting. JMO. It does require that you drill holes into the console. It is not too original. If that doesn't bother you, then go for it.

I have done my research and I have a couple of questions. 1. If I am replacing my springs, shocks and struts should I replace all my bushings and serviceable u-joints as well? (basically - the same old while its open, might as well replace) 2. I would like to purchase a complete set of struts and springs, but I am confused about the setup of after-market sets. I do not want to lower my car by 1 to 1.5 inches. I have larger tires on the car and there is only a 2 to 3 inch gap from the top of the tire to the fender. Passenger side rear tire hits fender when at high speed and there is bump in road. It sounds like the tokico setup is ok, but I do not want to lower my car. Any suggestion? Thanks in advance.

Here are some pics of my floor pans that I had to add some extra sheet metal to.

I had the same experience on my '73. If I can figure out how to decrease the size of my pics from over 1 meg to what is acceptable to these forums I will post them. I had to replace sheet metal up the firewall and all around the floor pans from 4' to 6" all the way around. The transmission tunnel was the worse section on my Z. After we cut out the damaged floor pans and laid in the new ones there was a big gap all the way around. We first secured the frame rails, after we made new connections and then we patched the floor all the way around. I think it would be a good idea if you removed all the vinyl and the electrical harness before you get started. Good luck

I agree with everyone here. Don't paint a perfectly good original paint job. Tell your dad that it will decrease the value of the car, if he ever decides to sell her in the future. If you really want a silver Z, find one that needs work and paint and everything and make it a project car. I spent $750.00 on my car over 5 yrs ago when I purchased it. I have well over 10 times that now into her, but I would not change the experience for the world. Good luck and welcome to the forums.

, I did not get it at first. I haven't looked at my Hayes manual in over 20 yrs. I wonder if I could sell it on ebay for some jack?