Ramses

3rd strike, My '73 did not have any fusible links next to the battery. The '73 is a bastard car, because all the electrical parts are different than any other year. Albert_EY, it sounds like something is wrong with our combo switch. If you dont have one, get a FSM (factory service manual) and use the wiring diagram to trace your wiring, also check your dimmer on the bottom side of the dash to the right of the steering wheel. you may have turned it down. Good luck...It took me about 3 weeks to completely go through my electrical system, but it was worth it...even my rear defrost works, now.

I did my entire body work for about 3k. I had to strip everything off myself, and put everything on. They only worked on it when their shop was slow, which took over a year. The guy who worked on it, Jose, did a kick arse job. I helped him when I had a chance and he sometimes came in on the weekend and showed me how to do things, then he would come back on Monday and inspect and fix my screw-ups. My advise, buddy up to a guy who owns a body shop, take him out for a few drinks a couple of times and then ask him a favor, if you do not need to use your car as a daily driver. It save a lot of money, while time should be no concerne.

, thanks

Thanks again BRE

Bre240 Thanks for saying that about my car. It is not about finances, it is about storage and downsizing. I have no garage and I do not want to spend 150 a month on a storage facility and I dont want to leave her outside. The divorce is final and she has her house. It was not mine. I have 3 weeks from today to get all my stuff out. Legal papers state that. Sailor Bob, In my description, I have said that I have replaced all rust spots. I have pics to back it up, I did not however take a pic of the inner wheel well. Thanks for the information.

I had the same thing happen to my '73. I replaced the vr as well and it fixed my problem, after I went through the entire grounding parts of the electrical system. I added 1 extra ground off the battery and one and replaced all of the connectors to the grounds.

Enigma, Your right. I really do not want to sell the car. It is my hope that if someone does buy it for the reserve, they will keep the car and cherish it as I have. What kind of photos are you talking about? I have seen some other Z cars sell for more than 7k and they were is worse shape than mine. Thanks for the support guys. Hey Bob, this is also my 2nd reset.

Hey guys, Unfortunately, after going through a divorce, I do not have the space to store my baby. I am going to try to sell her. The reserve is 7k. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300083780255&rd=1&rd=1 I dont want to do this and it makes me very sad, but when I get back on my feet I know that I will buy another one, because I do have the Z bug. :disappoin :mad:

Factory Service Manual. FSM. I found them at Autozone in Houston. I have replaced all my bulbs that way. I guess I got the last of them about 1 yr ago. Sorry you are having difficulty on such a little project.

If you remove the cover and take it to Autozone or someplace similar, they have replacement bulbs on the rack. They are cheap bulbs and do not have much light, but they do work.

If you want it to respond like your tack, then it wont. I believe that the response that your seeing is typical. My '73 has a pressure of about 1/4 at idle and then goes up to about 2/3 while driving. I have not looked at it while accelerating, to busy driving.

Im trying to figure out the production date on my '73. The plate on the door is missing and I have searched this forum extensively, but to no avail. I found a replacement plate for the door, but it is good for only production dates from 1970 to 1972, not 1973. The vin is hls30 127515 and the motor number is l24 134067. The engine bay tag is still there, however and the numbers match what I have. I went to zhome page but could not find the answer. Thanks for your help. Chuck

The floor pans from MSA do not have the drain holes in the floor. The frame rails match up nicely, however. The only problem that I have found with the floor pans from MSA is that they are not wide enough to go up the door jam and the transmission tunnel. I had to weld in some sheet metal to completely remove the cancer from my '73. I would suggest that you measure how much of the floor pans you would have to cut out before you order any new pans.

You dont have to remove the heater control dash when changing out the radio. I have found that if you remove the 5 screws on the console, remove the 2 screws holding the choke on to the console, move the console out of the way and move the fuse box out of the way you should have enough room to drop the radio from the mounting bracket by getting to the 2 screws on either side of the heater control. It sounds like it is more difficult, but you dont have to lable the cables for the heater. IMHO it is just easier to access than reaching under the dash, to get the the heater control cables.

Escalon, Do you still have the '73 Dash? If so, will you sell it?

Arne, Thanks for the information. They do have what I need for the door jam plate. They do not have the dash plate, so I am still looking for a source. Chuck

I have a '73. The ID Tag on the inside of the drivers door is missing. The vin number on the dash is missing (I accidently threw it away when replacing the Dash) - long story. The motor numbers match the id tag in the engine bay and on the title, and from what I remember the vin on the dash was the same. The question that I have is, is the car worth a complete restore? I have already done the body and interior. She runs really strong, but I need to replace or fix most of the suspension and steering. She only has 115k miles on her. Am I in a pickle or what? In other words I am almost finished with her and I can not find the ID plate or the vin tag. I recently went through a messy divorse and I can not go back to ex and look through the garage. She has said that she threw everything away. Thanks for your input.

The Red tool is the exact tool that the windshield repair man used to install my metal trim around the windshield and the rear hatch gasket. He used windshield cleaner to lubricate the gasket. It turned out almost perfect...there is a small gap in the top corner, passenger side. I am not sure why, but itt does not leak.

I had to do the same thing with my '73. The problem that I see with yours is that there may be some issues with the different years for the motor and the car. If you dont want to cut the wires and you do want to have a clean transition between the car and the motor. It sounds like you have some major issues. I had to buy 6 wiring harnesses and merge them into 3 in order to get them to work. Good luck

It was the wiring. I got it fixed a while ago. Thanks

Hey Bob, I am going to keep it. I was thinking about installing it with a speaker making sure that it is working and put the aftermarket radio in the glove box. I have to figure out how to install it in the glove box. It will fit and make it more original looking. If I change my mind, I will PM you.

On my '73 I kept the original radio and speaker and put them in a box. I bought an inexpensive cd stereo, an aftermarket box that mounts to the rear hatch plate and removed the light access panel. The box I bought from Motorsport for 149.00 has holes for 2 6x9 speakers. I also ran the two wires from the antenna and connected them to the new stereo. It is a much cleaner installation than installing the stereo in the glove box, which was my first idea.

I just wanted to chime in here. The only reason that I still have the Chiltom and the Hayes manuals is because of the drawings and pictures. Other than that I have found that there are glaring errors in both of those and not much detail. The FSM is a much better book, even though it may be a bit advanced for newbies.

Justin, If you have new rigid hoses, they will only fit on one way. The opposite way the hoses dont line up and go through the holes in the firewall. At least that is the way that my '73 worked.

I know Im chiming in on this a bit late, but no one has addressed the obvious. Maybe the whole timing needs to be adjusted a bit not just points. Retard - Advance. Sounds like that type of adjustment needs to be done. I like my points. Easy to work on, easy to adjust. I have never worked on a car or motorcycle with an electronic ignition. 1978 or earlier.