HxC240z

"The report found that the Tahoe averaged 14 mpg on gasoline, and only 10 mpg on ethanol"... based on what consumer report found and your prices... 0.27$/mi gas 0.30$/mi E85 I dont know where I got 1/3 from, but it still costs more. eco friendly... well sort-of

E85 wouldn't be worth it, I've heard they get 1/3 less gas milage on it, sounds like a bad solution, too bad it can't be that easy...

where can you get a good cheap guage, the pump seemed good, where should I check next, the springs?? if it loses prime can it refill itself okay?? I took it out and seemed to be running great, did allot of little things while I was in there... help, I wanna dive my z:cry:

tried getting a pressure guage, but advaced/autozone don't know what I'm talking about and napa's are 50$ it was set to 10.5* btdc by haynes's reccomendations, but I have heard 16 allot, so I'll reset it to that. 5* sounds way too late I've never heard anyone say that late, any reason why it should be there??? I'm pulling the pump apart today and checking for clogs/problems

Does this mean that when the strobe lights the timing mark is at 16 on the timing guage thing?? going by the harmonic balancer also any reccomendations on which ztherapy video to go with

Hello all, I have been searching and tuning and searching some more and I'm throwing in the towel and asking for help. I have a stock 73 240 with the exceptions of a lightened flywheel (5lbs taken off), roundtopps, a turbo oil pump, and just recently a zx dizzy upgrade. I rebuilt my l24 600 miles ago and have been tinkering with tuning carbs and ignition timing and it just doesn’t seem right. I just replaced the oil today from the 30w break-in oil to 10w-30 valvoline vr1. Compression test showed 150psi in all cylinders. Ignition timing is set to about 10.5. I am a newb and this was my first engine rebuild. Alright done with the introduction now to my symptoms: 1) When accelerating hard at higher rpms (4000+) the power seems erratic like it’s there and then it’s gone, back and forth. Not to an extreme degree, but it seems to vary at revs within 100+/- of each other just going by seat of the pants. 2) It isn’t a lean pop as far as I can tell, but if I hold rpms (in neutral) at about 4000 and then let off there is a backfire or 2 on the way down that I believe is through the exhaust. 3) While I was tuning carbs I was going to rev after idling for a few seconds and as soon as I started to open the throttle both carbs backfired white smoke (I haven't been able to replicate this event) 4) When tuning the carbs with the front disabled I can’t seem to get the car to die even with the adjustor fully leaned on the back (bad jets?) 5) When I let the engine brake the car it backfires, I am unsure if it is through the exhaust or the carbs. 6) With the new dizzy the idle has smoothed, but still seems a little rough 7) On the initial break-in trip the car had normal oil pressure, but on the 80 mile trip home I lost the pressure and it has been non existent since, I replaced the sensor. I know all connections are good because the sensor sends the needle all the way up and then down again when the key is turned to on. I am unsure if the oil pump is truly a turbo pump because it was an eBay purchase. I have pulled the valve cover to make sure that oil was still circulating Also, I don’t have much to compare to, but the power seems to be lacking I don’t know what a slipping clutch feels like, but could the erratic power be contributed to that? On my to do list tomorrow is re-checking valves, plugs, float settings, and ordering a video from Ztherapy. For the video do you recommend “ZTV09 Just SU's ” or “ZTV01 240Z-280X TuneUp” Thanks for the help in advance and I’m sorry if this has been posted before, but I cant find it. Also I once found a great write up on what caused backfire where once and I cant find it, if anyone can help with that it would be appreciated too Thanks again, roger

I was wondering about historic (specifically model year plates) plates in Ohio, as far as I know they don't have a specific mileage restraint, but says "They are solely collector's items and are used for participation in club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, etc. but NOT for general transportation" does that leave enough grey area to just cruise around, my car is by no means show quality (still a work in progress) and I was planning on driving it almost every weekend, but I define general transportation as going to get groceries and things of that nature How is it enforced do you get in trouble with johnny law if they see you too much? what is the penalty I don't want regular plates because they are ugly as sin :sick: http://www.netstate.com/states/links/images/oh_license_plate.jpg I really want model year plates any suggestions or if there are more restrictions that I cant find through the technical jargon then please tell me I'll do anything (other than not drive my z) so that I don't have to have those plates!!!

Thanks Carl! thats all I needed to know

For the life of me I cant find them and I think I've done enough seaching to justify posting this. I've searched the forums, google, and all the z stores I know and all I can find are ARP bolts and I dont need those, it's a stock L24. Also in my searching I found people talking about buying bolts from a turbo to torque them down more, I assume the 81-83 turbo. Will these also work for a l24. I assume they will, but bad things happen when I assume . so all I need are the bolts to attach the head to the block and the Intake and exaust bolts, studs, washers.

also anyone know what kind of diff I would find on an 85 automatic 300zx

So while I'm working on rebuilding my engine I have been searching for r200s and a 5 speed. I know a guy with a lsd longnose r200 and have been trying to get A 5 SPEED from Miami to Ohio, but anyways, what is needed to put a longnose in my 73 240?

Another quick question, I am the 2nd owner of my z and I think it was once in an accident (I think seller lied to me when he said it wasn't), but doesn't show it too much other than it needs a little frame repair and the crappy paint job. I think it is mostly original, other than carbs (still have the flattops, just in a box) and some more minor things. Anyways someone said it was a shame to switch out the original trans because of originality. So the question is what do you think about the originality and mainly what would switching the trans do to what the car is worth? I know its my decision, I just wanted some other points of view. So what if my quick question turned out to be long.