HxC240z

Where is the cheapest place for Centerline Billet Star 16x7 wheels or any other Centerline Billet Star that will fit a Z. Motorsports seem too pricey Summit is a bit less but still allot, if there is something cheaper that is good quality and looks the same where can I buy it?

It works, but I think the address just changed it redirects me when i click on it. Try this http://datsunzgarage.com/ This has allot of info too, I just found it http://www.biopatent.com/engine.html

Does anyone know what differential is in an 85 automatic 300zx

I was asking about this stuff because I'm not sure what to upgrade when I am rebuilding it. I was planning on putting what I could afford in while I was already in there. After that I'll take it easy until I can buy some brakes/suspension upgrades. Also I'm sticking with the stock block, I'm not too worried about allot of performance just wondering what should I put in to juice it up during it's rebuild.

What changes do the performance cams make? Acceleration? Top speed?

I posted earlier with no response, but could I use my 85 300zx's electric ignition in my 240. And how do you make a stroker motor?

Hi, I was thinking of buying performance stuff for my 240 when I'm attempting it's rebuild. What can you get out of running something like a stage II cam, electric ignition, wider exhaust or what kind of basic upgrades do you suggest. I'm looking for things like the 0-60 and top speed when I ask "What can you get", but any info would be appreciated. Also is there are any better places to buy stuff other than MSA? Thanks, Roger

Is there nothing I can use or no one responding.

Hi I'm Roger I'm 17 I live in Kent, Ohio and graduate in may. My first Z was a 300zx (I always wanted a 240 but I figured I'd settle for a 300 because it was cheap) but the body was too unsafe so I have decided to give up on it and part it out this summer. On march 17 of last year I was lucky enough to purchase a 73 240 that had been sitting in a garage for 15 years from the original owner for around 1,700. After new carbs, gas tank, and tune-up it is now my daily driver. Over the summer I am planning to fix the rust and rebuild it, ...it will no longer be the daily driver.

Over the summer I am going to be taking apart my old project an 85 300zx and I was wondering what, if any, parts I could use off of it on my 73 240z. I am not sure but I think I have heard that I can use the distributor, I was looking for things like that. Thanks, Roger

I was thinking about running 2 too, did you get it custom made? if so how long ago was it and how much was the price? Does running two sperate pipes make it quieter too? I'd prefer it not be too loud. With the 3-2 to a twice pipes does it go down to one and then back to two? You said twice pipes doesnt fit right is it possible to have them fitted at a custom shop?

I was told to go with high temp powder coat or ceramic coated headers, will the aerospace coated headers be better? Worse? Same? If prices are high for a custom exhaust should I rethink buying one? If so which prefab should I go with?? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC03/15-6001CH

Can anyone direct me to a good perfomance exhaust shop in kent ohio area?

I agree that if it ain't broke don't fix it, but one problem it is broke, the piping itself is rusted through in a few spots and broken free and as for the manifold it has a few large cracks in it and leaks a bit. I wasn't just looking for a loud sound, I hate that loud muffler on a cheap "sport tuner" (POS accord ) or whatever they call it. I was looking for something that breathed better because I plan on slowly turning it into a performance car doing cams and all that jazz I was just thinking "why go with a cheap exhaust now and then buy a better one later when I have money to fix it up". Since it all pretty much needs replaced I figured buy a nice one now and only buy one exhaust to save $. Should I buy a nice stock manifold and go with a custom exhaust or just get the headers? you've changed my mind about the prefab exhaust Thank you for your input everyone

I'll Be honest. I dont know much about exhausts or cars (yet) for that matter. I am looking at a new exhaust because my 240 is finally in roadworthry running condition so it is due time to get an exhaust and drive it. the only performance exausts I can find are on the motorsport Z store. I need headers back and I decided I like the 3 into 2 headers but Im not sure which exhaust is best for perfomance Aluminized Turbo Exhaust System, 70-78 Z With 3-2 Headers http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=15-6301&Category_Code=PEC02 or Twice Pipes Exhaust, 70-78 Z With Headers http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC09/15-6030 and will the twice pipes fit to the 3-2 headers

New Plugs, Wires, and timing adjusatment and it runs like a champ

I opened up the valve cover and everything looked good, I just guessed it was rings and I would rebuild when I had a garage money and I knew how the engine went together better any way to checkwhat is wrong with the cylinder distributor looked decent last time I checked what is the diffrent timing with no emissions??

Okay I'll answer in the order that they came. last I can remember plugs were black, Ill recheck them in daylight yes I have changed mixture setting (more on that in a bit) No I have not checked for a vac leak, but I heard if you plug the air inlet on the carbs front and it still runs you have a vac leak I can take a pic in the daylight I know of a very thin line near the rear that is hooked up and I belive it goes to the distributor if I remember correctly What is the vac advance or better what does it run between The balance tube is all plugged other than the openings to the manifold and the opening that I cant remember what it goes to but it closes itself Ill figure what it goes to in the daylight float bowls are unplugged Now the big question of how I synced em If its awful dont blame me its what Haynes said to do *loosen balance and fast idle completely *tighten (actuallly it says "screw up" and in parentheses it says clockwise but tightening would be counter clockwise looking down?!?) mixture nuts all the way then back off 1 turn *Start engine *turn throttle speed adj. screws so that engine runs evenly at 600 to 700 rpm *balance the carbs with flowmeter by adjusting throttle speed adj. screws only *this step it says to tigthen mixture screws equally 1/8 turn until fastest smoothest idle is achieved, but I substituted this with the disable one carb by lifting each piston one at a time and adjusting mixture so that it runs roughly with one disabled *unscrew throttle speed screws to reduce idle to 650 rpm *balance with flowmeter by adjusting throttle speed screws *turn balance screw so that pistons visually lift simultaneously *turn fast idle screw so that engine is between 1000 and 1500 rpm *use flowmeter and balance by adjusting balance screws *release fast idle to 650rpm and rev engine to allow to return idle *recheck balance *book doesnt say to but I recheck mixtutre by using the disable technique *I dont do this part because I dont really get it but it says" set fast idle so that there is a clearance at its tip between 1-2 mm when balance screw is lightly depressed with the finger" thats all I can tell you tonight thanks for the help

Corection it bacfires and bucks when starting to move on a hill, on level ground it is hard to move, but bucks moves a few feet very roughly and then dies.:stupid:

Okay the best description I can give I have a 1973 240z (it had been sitting since 91) with recently added used round top carbs that came with an intake manifold and a cheap new electric fuel pump. I removed all the junk on the balance tube including the line from the exhaust and the coolant lines the coolant line that ran into the manifold was removed but left unplugged when I bought the manifold and I left it that way .I also removed the air pump junk. I have adjusted the float to Haynes specifications. I know that cylinder number two (counting from the front) has no compression. The symptoms I am experiencing: when it did move (before major adjustment)it had a major lack in power, it also popped allot and it sounded like back firing which got worse as gears went higher( I didn’t make it past 3rd on my test runs). I was told to readjust the carbs. I bought a uni-syn and adjusted by the Haynes manual's description which was very hard to follow (I can go into detail on its directions if needed). It ran worse after 4 more adjustments each getting more meticulous on little details of how they were balanced and what not. Now it runs like crap! It idles low and seems as if the idle slowly decreases as it sits. When in neutral it revs but a bit slow when put into first as soon as the gear engages it backfires, bucks, and then dies. The last buck shook the exhaust loose and now it’s as loud as heck:stupid: From what I have read it sounds like timing or fuel starvation. I think that I read that you have to change the timing after removing emissions stuff?? I figured before making things worse I would ask on here what direction I should go. Thanks

Got it running but I still have some fine tuning to do, does anyone know where to find a uni-sun or any other flowmeter because I called advanced auto parts, napa, and atuo zone advanced had something for 50$ but I though that was too much, I also tried summit but they put me on hold forever ( I hate summit with a passion!) If it helps I live in kent,OH. Also in my driveway I noticed that the clutch grinds when its put in reverse only when at an angle(on a hill) any one know what would cause that???

hey I opened up the float and adjusted it like suggested and it needed it too, but I had a bigger problem just for kicks I decided to check the jet that the float controlls and it was completly plugged with this stupid rubber sealing wrap that was on the threads of the fitting that came with the carbs. I cleaned it out and now it should work. The gasket that was on the float cover to the float chamber was dissintegrated and advanced dosent carry em, does any one know what theyre made of so I can make my own??