beandip

I have been using Kroil for about 9 years now, and I have also used PB blaster. The Kroil is the best penetrating product I have ever used, and I have been working on cars for over 50 years. The Blaster is my second choice , however it smell strong and if you have a attached garage to your house it will stink up the house. I have read the info on the Sili Kroil, but I won't use silicone on my car because of the problems later if you want to paint the parts. If you mix ATF and Acetone in 50/50 ratio , there should not be any problem with flammability any more than with the Kroil or Blaster. But like it was stated , it vary likely will blister paint. Gary

I guess it is a personal thing. I prefer the clear on the markers and the turn signals. Especially on a silver Z. I think the clear would look much better on my Yellow as well. The amber lenses clash with the Yellow paint . Gary:rolleyes:

WAITE A MIN. . We were actually 6 min early to the rest stop. It was really great on the way to the event to look back and see the line of great cars with there lights on . Once again I ended up in front of the line leading the group, but this time I didn't get lost. To much fun. Other than Mikes yellow Z and Mine There was another, a 280 and I met the owners briefly,at the rest stop, and planed to see them at the Show. But it seemed that we all scattered like a covey or Quail after we parked. I never had a chance to talk with them. Maybe I will see them in the near future at a show or cruise. Where we all parked . We represented some of the finest early Zs at the show. By the way NorthWest Z is having there Show N' Shine on August 29 at Forged Performance in Troutdale Or.

Over revving the engine can cause the valve to ''float'' and hit the pistons. Especially if the valve springs are weak. However I would look to the tensioner as was suggested. Not knowing the background on the car though , check everything. Gary

there is a small group meeting at the Arco Station at Cornell and hiwy 26, leaving at 9:00. I plan on being at the station at 8:30 or so. We need to leave at 9:00 to make the 9:30 meet at the rest stop. So be prompt. Looks like it's going to be a great day. From what I heard the Auto cross was a ball today. I had honey dos or I would have been there. :stupid: Several are camping at the event in Camby tonight and Saturday night. If I could I would be there and do that. Too much fun. Gary

Looks like you just need to cut away the rusted metal and weld in some new sheet metal. If you can weld you have it made. I had to take my Z to a welder and he patched it in with his tig. One thing with the battery in place , no one will see anything.

Soundmasterg, Greg meet at the ARCO at Cornell and 26 , leaving there at 9:00 sharp for the rest area on I-5. Any one else from the Beaverton , Hillsboro area are welcome to join in. Gary

Jeff G, do run a return line. I have been running a RX-7 pump for 8 years now , from a '80 RX that was Carbed. Silent and supplies all the volume a triple will need on a stroker and will not over whelm a pair of SUs . At least I haven't found any trouble . There silent also. Gary

First off I wouldn't pack the area with grease. Moisture will still find its way under it and rust the metal. There is a design flaw , in my estimation, on these cars. It is the cowl drains. They drain water and dust/dirt and all sorts of stuff inside the front fender just forward of the doors. It just pours down and lands in the cavity and is supposed to find its way out the drain at the bottom. The major part of the water does, but the dust/dirt and leaf particles lay down at the bottom and rust out the lower part of the fenders. Also this is the front end of the rocker and this is exactly where the crud lands and eventually rust a hole in top of the end of the rocker. Now water pours in the rocker and travels back and attacks the dog leg as well as the whole rocker. This is a EASY remedy. Buy a 45* 1''PVC elbow at the hardware store and a length of clear vinyl hose of the size that will tightly slip into the elbow. I used silicone to seal and hold the parts in place. The PVC elbow will just fit inside the drain at the top where it enters the space inside the fender cavity. Cut the hose so it reaches the drain provided at the bottom. Now with the parts secured with the silicone your done. From now on when water drains out of the cowl it will just go out the bottom along with all the crud. Thanks to escanlon for coming up with this fix. Gary

I have used white Lithium grease for this stuff for years. I have found that after many years the old white grease does harden and looks like JB only not that hard. White lube can withstand temp and will stay put where some other grease may run/melt from the heat of the sun. White Lithium is also good for the contact points on the drum brakes where the shoes rub the backing plate and the adjuster screw. Again I have been using it there for 54 years. I started when a teen doing brake jobs in a Garage. Ha ha that was long before disks. And they were not horse drawn buggies either. Gary

If you have checked the bushings and what the others have mentioned. You may have a wheel/tire problem. I bought a set of 15'' mags from a friend of mine and they had 225/50X15s mounted . Falkin tires and they were is good shape. I put them on my 240 and it was all over the road when I was on the freeway. Here in northern Ore. people run studded tires in winter and they will groove the roadway. These tires would hunt for a track and were vary squirrelly . I had only bought the wheels not the tires, but decided against using either . I sold the wheels and gave him back his tires and went back to my original turbines. My car is solid at speed now. I do have and had when trying the wheels, new struts and Euro stage 1 springs+ I lowered the car all around. This made the biggest difference. Gary

Well sports fans Canby is next weekend. Saturday is a Swap meet and Sunday is the show. Remember those that wish to arrive in a group, we are meeting at the rest on I-5. From the north it is just PAST the first Canby exit . Looking to be leaving at 9:30 sharp. Hope to see you all at he the rest and or the Show. I am not entering my car in the show so I will be parking to the left of the entrance the '' riff-raff'' area. This is going to be a great show this year. I hope to see many of you, please stop by and say high. Scanlon is bringing his Roadster and I think his gold 240 also. Many familiar names will also be at this show. Gary;)

Frankie, where did you buy the floor pans? If they are from Zed findings they are the first choice. You will now need to take the pans to a sheet metal shop and buy some metal at or near he same thickness. Hopefully you havent removed the floor on the other side of the car so you can make some measurements. As was mentioned by zbane, make cardboard pieces that will make up the difference between the floor and what is left of the car to attach the two parts. Use the pieces to cut the sheet metal parts. I would do one floor at a time. because you are going to need to take the car to a welder and the floors are part of the frame on these cars. Buy a box of self taping sheet metal screws and attach the sheet metal parts that you have fabricated to the car. These are just temporary at this point, so just use enough to hold the pieces in place. Now do the same with the floor pans, fitting and bending all to blend to the shape needed. If you have cleaned all the surfaces well before assembly so the welder can just do his thing then , add more screws to hold everything securly and tight so your welder won't need to stop and mate the surfaces . His time is not cheep so do as much as you can your self. He cannot weld rusted metal so get it clean. I ended up with screws about every 5''. As my welder went along welding he removed the screws and filled the holes. I had over lapped the surfaces about 2'' to 3''. Now if you are involving much of the tranny tunnel you will need to have the transmission out of the car and also the brake and fuel lines away from where he is going to be welding. Welding this sheet metal since it is so thin, is not a walk in the park, my welder , who is a certified craftsman. He used a TIG to do the job. Judging from the limited pictures , you have a real project. I hope that this helps you. You will save a lot of money if you do all of the fitting and cleaning and making things ready for your welder. When I got the car back I cleaned and painted the bare metal with POR to prevent any rust and to seal. Gary

hoge, I have a complete drive shaft on my work bench and it measures 29 3/4'' from the rear flange to the tip end of the splined front section. This shaft is from a 240Z . Hope this helps answer your question. Gary

I am indeed running SUs on a ZX motor as Arne stated. The compression is at 9.5 to one . Not high but higher than stock. When I installed this engine I thought because of the headers , Cam and larger displacement I may need richer needles . I tried the SMs and they caused the mileage to tank and were so rich that I was getting gas in the oil . I tried the 47s I think that is the number. In any event the ones for the '70Z that Arne mentioned and again vary rich. I went back to the needles that I was running on the L-24 Motor and she runs well . I tried 58s also, too lean. I bought a new set of 54s and have been running them for 8years +. Good torque all through the power band. Mileage is good too and I can run regular gas but use the midrange gas. Aside from the good performance. I took the Z to the Emissions center , DEQ here in Or. and the car passed emission testing. '73 is exempted but since it was a free test I thought I would do it for me. I have zero emissions equipment on the car. Gary

Neil, the idle/revving question. This could be timing and or the Carbs are out of adjustment. If your Z has the stock ignition , set the timing at 9 or 10* btdc and for the carbs . Contact ZTherapy they have a video that shows and explains the whole procedure. If you do a search for adjusting SUs there is plenty of info already in the memory here also. Gary

Most likely a honing will do the job , unless they are deeply scored. Knobi is correct and if you can get by honing you can use the same pistons. Basically the blocks are all the same . the 280s all have dished pistons but the different years the heads changed , but will still fit. The differences are the compression that is archived.

I didn't do a restoration , because I wanted my Z how I wanted it. That being said. This is what I did. I reduced my Z to a rolling shell. Both front fenders off , engine and Trans out, all glass removed and all the interior removed. Now is the time to do all the mechanical work. If you want to do the suspension now is the time. Also this is when the rust repair should be done. Then media blast if this is what you want to do. Now take on the body work that needs to be done. This way the bare metal wont be exposed for a long period. When the body pounding is done , this is important completely wipe down the whole car with grease/wax remover twice. the old wax on wax off method. Apply the remover with one cloth and wype it off with another. Then shoot the metal with epoxy primer followed with hi-fill primer. This is now when you start the wet sanding. Completely go over the whole car. Then shoot again with Hi fill if no bare metal is exposed. And sand again , eliminating all the little flaws. If you need another coat of primer do it. Once you are satisfied the finish is flawless shoot another coat of epoxy primer to seal and finish the prep. you are ready for color. In a nut shell this is what was done on my Z 6years ago and my Z still takes awards when shown. Other than the welding done for rust repair, I did all of this in my home garage with the help of my friend EScanlon, with out his help I couldn't have done this project. He showed me how to straighten metal and prep the car for paint. He shot the color and clear for me in my garage . It can be done in your own garage if you have the skills and desire. This is a big project but something that I mostly enjoyed. It took over 2 1/2 years.

Mike !What about Murray Hill? That was a Datsun event I saw you there two years in a row. Canby is a geat event to take in. I am looking forward to it!

I have a color tune also, but it seems to me that it shows a rich mixture when the carbs are in good tune. I will put it this way. Set with the Color Tune the engine drives as if it is detuned. If I richen the mixture just a little , like a 1/8 of a turn or so, the engine runs smoother and even exhaust sounds, seem stronger. Also feels stronger, seat of the pants dyno. But the color of the flame is not all blue like they recommend in the instructions. It is certainly a good aid to getting them dialed in though. Maybe I am being Paranoid about running lean and burning a valve. ?? Gary

Just go to the top of the page and in the header you will find Search. Click on it and follow the pomps. Look under evap tank, or gas fumes . the evaporation tank is on the passenger side behind the trim panel to the rear of the tire. There are several hoses that connect to it and the gas tank and fill hose. Most likely one or more of these are cracked and leaking fumes. I showed a member named dogma how to do away with the thing a few years ago and he wrote an article on it. If you decide to remove and do away with the tank and cannot find the info . send me a PM (private message) and I will help you. Gary

Check the timing. Don't take anything for granted. What was the timing set at before, 10* BTDC ? What does the instructions indicate with a Pertronix. I know the ZX setup but not the specifics on a Pertronix. With my ZX I am running half again the advance. However try 10* and see how she runs. If this is all you have changed then that helps greatly figuring out what is going on. Gary

Ha ha Zak , I don't charge extra for the sinus cleaning. I really like the Black Pearl paint as was stated, it sets the car off from the rest. One of our club members took 3rd place at the Portland Roadster Show a few months ago with his. This was an event that had just over 360 cars entered . Not many Zs I grant you, but a prestiges event. The 53 rd year of the show. He should have taken 2nd but the judges included an exotic in our same class that placed 1st. Z saint took 2nd. Don 3rd. Gary 70 not 71

Just rotate the engine until #1 is coming up on compression stroke , both valves will be closed. Insert about 6'' or so of cotton rope in the spark plug hole, leave a tag end sticking out . Continue the rotation and the piston will stop on the compressed rope . Remove what bolts you need to . Remove the short rope and you are good to go. No harm no fowl. Gary

Well .... looks like you are 2 for 2 = 100% Sorry couldn't help it. I wouldn't take the chance leaving any loose stuff in there. Not at all worth the gamble.