beandip

ranga, Welcome, good to have you among us infected Z drivers. Don't hesitate asking for help, if you have any questions. Gary

I have heard that they are rare but there are 3 in my Z Club. They do show vary well. On yours that has been repainted once and need to be done again. For me it is another '78Z . And the value comparable . Gary

Personally I don't care for the original gray. First off , the flat is difficult to clean if you by chance get any polish on it. If you do like the gray I recommend satin or gloss rather than the flat. Saying this I am not interested in keeping my Z bone stock. I shot my finishers gloss metallic black. My Z being Yellow it's a nice contrast . If you prepare the parts well, wet sanding and masking and using grease/wax remover. You should be able to end up with a good result. I did shoot clear over the color coats. If you have black/pearl on the rest of the car , why not do the same for the finishers. Gary

You may have a in line filter back by the gas tank also. Did this problem just start or has it been like this for a while. If you have been working on the Carbs you could have changed the float level or levels. The fitting right at the carb where the fuel line attaches to the carb, this is the ''banjo'' fitting. It has a screen that could be clogged , one on each carb. first change the filters weather or not this is the problem , they are cheap and may need changing anyway. If you know anyone with a gage check the fuel pressure. Should be between 3 and 5 Psi. Gary

Sounds like from you description that you cross threaded the plug. Take the car to a shop and have them install a Helicoil. This is the fix. They will tap the hole out to a larger size , then install the Helicoil which is made of spring steel and back to the origional size. They will be stronger than original. It is a common thing . Any good Mechanic can do this job. I recommend using anti seize on spark plugs to protect the threads especially if you remove a plug when the engine is at driving temp. From now on ALWAYS install plugs only with your fingers and turm them in at least 3 turns . This way you will know they are in correctly. With the heads made of aluminum it is easy to over tighten them this damages the threads and makes it easier to cross thread them.Gary :bulb:

We usually leave the rest area at 9:30 sharp. If arriving from the north , the Roadside Rest is just past the first Canby Exit. Some were confused by this last year. 5/10s and Roadsters are also welcome by all means! Gary

Mechanics gloves work vary well . Barked knuckles with grease in the sore is a bi&^% to scrub with a brush. I use them all the time and have a few pair. Cheap at Harbor freight or Costco.

I am going and planning on meeting at the rest area . Driving my Yellow '73 240. this will be the third year. If anyone is interested there will be Auto cross on Friday and Swap meet Saturday and Sunday. I think the Auto X is at a different location so contact Datsun's NorthWest for info on that. If you wish to show your Car with judging you can sign up when your enter the gate. They will not create a class but if your ride fits in with one that is established you are good to go. Otherwise you will be put in a class that is different than your car. If you pre-register witch you can do over the net, they will create a class if needed. www.datsunsnw.org 5/10 is the deadline for pre-registration. It's always good to see great cars and meet new and old friends. Hope to see many. Gary

I strongly suggest that you buy some Kroil and if you cannot get it buy PB Blaster, another item that will save you allot of grief is Anti Seize.

If you do repair it be sure to clean it thoroughly, I had mine loosen and fortunately I had access to another, but I tried to clean them both and found that some varnish came loose on the inside and plugged two of the holes . This would have starved the #1 and #2 cylinders had I not caught it. Just a heads up. Gary

Just one thing more. Be sure to lube them , the factory only lubes the needle bearings to keep them in place while assembly. If you install units with Zerk fittings or the ones that have the removable plugs that a Zerk can be inserted, lube them. You will find that they will take about 4 or 5 pumps from a grease gun to fill the cavity. Just watch the little gasket and stop with the grease at the first sign of any expansion or grease exiting. If you do this they will last for years.

I am running .044" plug gap. The vacuum advance is done at lower rpm this is why you see no difference at the higher rpm. the vacuum advance is meant to give you better performance by adding advance when at low rpm and you open the throttle. When the engine reaches 700 rpm or so the mechanical advance is taking over and should be at full advance around 2500. The module is not causing the hesitation you are describing. Modules either work or don't. At least 99.9% of the time. Timing will depend on what the configuration is on your engine, the head and compression and shape of the combustion chamber, as well as the grade of gas you are using. Advancing the timing can defiantly cause predetonation that can be vary damaging. Just be aware. Just one more item what spark plug head combination are you using and has the head been modified? Arne was having trouble with his stock L-24 with this same ignition set at 9*advance! My L-24 from which was a '73 engine ran great at 12*. Now I am running a 280 with P-79 and 9.5 comp. set at 16*, on mid range gas. I can run regular but I don't. What about your float levels and what fuel presher are you getting while at while driving under load? This could cause the engine to flatten out at the upper end if it is leaning out do to lack of fuel.

U-joints are a 3 on the 10 scale to replace . Spicer for my money are a good part. If one has gone bad , replace all four while you are at it. I bought my Spicers for about $20.00 each at the local parts store

I am running a 3 into two header from MSA and find it a good setup for me. I have a 280ZX engine in my '73z . I have 2 1/2'' piping and I think that 2 1/4'' would be better. I have one oval Dynomax super turbo muffler. Center inlet and off set out let. It tucks up in the space provided well and is not seen from the rear. The sound is deep and not too loud for me but would be better if I had the 2 1/4'' piping I think . the smaller pipe will also give better low end torque. Since I am not driving a race orientated Z this works well for me. The system offered at MSA is a mandrel bent systime and I like mine and have no fault with it. I just prefer the Dynomax sound , not as raspy. Gary

I favor the stripes . Especially on a dark Z I think it sets it off nicely. I am not a fan of them on a light color. Usually I am a less is more on a Z , but this looks vary good to me, I wouldn't change a thing. I don't like the head light covers at all! I think you should sell them to me. Either with or without the stripe you have a great Z. Gary

It must be from the PO. When I have removed the vinyl from any of 240s I have never found the residue to be any problem. Describe what you have found??

I haven't seen any pictures since this is the 3rd post. But welcome to the club, good to have you with us. Looking forward to seeing what you are doing on/with your ''new Z''. Any Help we can be just ask. Gary

I had similar rust problems. I recommend POR paint. If you prep the area with the Marine clean and follow with the metal ready then the paint . This will not be a problem any further. You need to just do as the manufacturer recommends. If you paint your finish color over the POR while it is still tacky then it will bond . I did this on my Z years back in the same area and others and 7 years later no rust. Gary

I found a nest in the dogleg down at the bottom. In the engine bay . The little buggers packed seeds from the bird feeder in the space between the inner fender and the fender form back by the battery along the top of the inner fender. It was packed full on the passenger side. they will get inside the rockers and back below the rear hatch. shoot some simple green in the spaces when you find droppings then flush it out. If you follow with POR be SURE that it is COMPLETELY dry. Moisture will cause the POR to foam and set up quickly and because of the foaming moisture can penetrate it. Done correctly I know of no other finish that is superior . If you wish to paint your color over POR , do it while it is still tacky and it will bond . Other wise when the POR is cured and you paint regular paint over it , the paint will just peal off. So either sand it or use the primer(ti-coat) then what ever paint you want. Gary

Just shoot it with the fabreze . If you want to clean dirt and grime use simple green. On the carpets if they are not all chewed up just spray the Fabreze on heavily to both sides and place in the sunshine. Worked great for me the same for the insulation that is on the firewall and tranny tunnel. Mine smelled sour like from moisture and the Fabreze took care of it as well. Any mold use spray Lysol, I found that it kills it and will prevent it from forming when the car is stored for winter. Like on the seats and door panels and such. Gary

Squeeks, great to have you aboard. Unleaded in your Z is just fine. My old '73 L-24 had around 200K on it when I replaced it with a ZX motor. It spent much of it's life on unleaded fuel , no problem. Bigger concern is the oil we are forced to use. But that is a whole different issue. Your Z is looking great congrats. I like you had to wait years for a 240. My self it was 28 years. There are several Zdrivers in Colorado. By the way THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE! Stay safe. Gary

Much depends on how greasy the project is. For real greasy areas I use Gunk foaming cleaner . Spray it on and then use a old paint brush and work it into the offending areas. Let soak for 10 min or so and hose it off. If the area is really bad do it again. On the aluminum I use a spray mag wheel cleaner on the castings, like bell housing and water pump area on the head also if the valve cover is not polished. It will dull a polished aluminum surface. Just spray it on and let it work and wash it off. It will brighten the cast parts. Simple green the whole engine and inner fenders and if you work it in around the brake lines and like areas with a paint brush then before it drys wash it off with the hose. all will come vary clean. I then use the same wax on the inner fenders and firewall and hood as I use on the rest of the Z. Either Adams or Meguiar's NXT tech wax. Like was stated , from now on it will be easy to keep up. I wipe down my engine bay and hood each time I wash the Z. It only takes about 10 min. and the car is ready for a show. Well mostly. A project like I just outlined should take only a couple of hours at most. I recommend POR on any bare steel, rusted or not. Important! Follow the directions for prep using POR or it will peal right off. Under coat is for under the car and you will be sorry if you use it in the engine bay if and when you want to detail it in the future. Plus it does trap moisture like was stated.

I took that picture. This is at a lava flow by Sisters Oregon we were on a cruise and stopped at a vantage point for pictures . This is between Eugene and Bend Oregon. It was a great day. This is in Arne's ''back yard''. By the way there is a move afoot to start another Z club for the central/southern Oregon. Gary

Depends, there is one year of the 280s that used CV joints. I don't remember off hand which year it is. If you don't have CV Joints then it is a simple u-joint replacement. Suggestion. Do all four, otherwise you will be back under and doing the others real soon. I am not driving a drag car so I like the u-joints with Zerk fittings . When U-joints are assembled at the factory they grease the needle bearings with only enough grease to hold them in place for assembly. Be sure to lube them fully after installation if you use the ones with the fittings. Spicier to me are the best. Gary