beandip

Thanks Steve , you are the Man. I will contact them on Monday. It so happens that I borrowed a rear bumper for a Portland Car show and mine is off . So off it goes to the plater. Gary

In my neck of the woods the cost to re chrome the center of a 240 bumper is VARY close to the prices quoted for new from these guys. Gary

For the items you listed , most all are available at your local parts store. Except for the door seals and the like. The trim pieces can some times be a little difficult. Like I am running metal script badges on my 240. If you wanted this sort of stuff maybe ebay. The plastic ones are available from MSA and Black Dragon and several other places. Carburetors, SUs, look to Ztherapy . Gary

A few months back I replaced my blades in my OEM wipers. I just took one of them with me to my trusty parts store and showed the parts guy what I had and he came up with the blades. Done no problem. Like Carl , I am surprised to see the wiper is still available. Gary

There is some unclear information here. You say that you have installed a new ignition switch and all the wires are connected. What about the push button switch is this history? Another thing you charged the battery and you are sure it holds a charge , but the engine will not turn over , when you turn the key all the way to start? is this correct so far? to answer one of your questions , yes the injectors must fire in order to start the engine, so you must have fuel pressure when the key is turned to start, or if the push button is still being used. In that case the key must be in the run detent and then the starter button pushed. You said the starter sounded like it wasn't making good contact. Do you mean the gear is clashing with the ring gear on the flywheel ? Or the Solenoid clicks and or buzzes but the starter does not engage or turn the engine over? Gary

Mark, I have a puller that I will loan if you pay the shipping both ways, and return it in a timely manner when you are finished with it. The shipping costs are are about nine dollars each way via US Mail. The puller makes the job of pulling the pins easy , if the rust damage to the suspension isn't severe. The new puller I have is so strong that it will actually pull the pin apart if it is so embedded with rust that it is ''welded'' in place. If you or anyone else has been hitting the spindle pin , trying to knock it loose or out. Don't bother with the puller. Because It must be attached to the end of the pin and if the threaded end is damaged , it will not work. The old pins are reusable so don't buy new ones until you have a look at yours. They are about $25.00 ea. Send me a PM . Gary

The 2+ fly wheel clutch and all will fit just fine . If you are concerned about any additional weight , have the wheel lightened. One thing , be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts. It's easy to over torque them and brake them off in the flywheel. This I know first hand. Gary

I have the Harbor Freight spring compressors and have used them several times. They work just fine , however I recommend that you use vice grips on the springs to keep any movement of the ''hooks'' slipping down the helical of the spring. If you have Wick Humbles How to Restore your 240Z , they show this exact thing being done. I don't care what brand of compressor being used . Be vary careful because there is a tremendous amount of pressure being applied, so stay out of the direction of any travel ! I happen to have 4 pair of vice grips and I always use all four just to be safe.

I chose the Taylor also.

If the car was running fine when you parked it last fall, don't mess with the Dist. Not yet, try and solve the present problem first . If you keep the choke on , will the engine continue to run ? Is it blowing any black smoke when it's running like it is? Do try starting it with the gas cap loose . Gary

If the car was running fine when you parked it last fall, don't mess with the Dist. Not yet, try and solve the present problem first . If you keep the choke on , will the engine continue to run ? Is it blowing any black smoke when it's running like it is? Do try starting it with the gas cap loose .

Sounds like a problem with the needle and seat. There may be a little crud keeping it from closing and flooding the float bowl. this would account for the revving but not idling. As you said it could also be too much pressure. Anything over 5 psi could overwhelm the needle and seats. If there is no fuel coming from the return line on the fuel rail, then there must be something plugging the metering hole at the end of the metal line. Are you running a in line filter before the electric pump and one in the engine bay? If you do find that the rail has some crud blocking it , take it off and run some carb. cleaner through it and let it soak a little while.

In hind sight. What I did was to use a length of stainless wire, bought it at a fishing tackle shop, and connected it to the latch under the hood, and ran it into to the cabin area by the steering post. I made a ''handle'' with a length of plastic tubeing and formed a loop. Now if the cable parts I can just reach under the dash and pull on my handle and pop the hood open and do the repair. the wire I used is what is sold for making fishing spinners.

Swoozy, Welcome to the club and if I can be of any help let me know. I live in the Portland Or area. I and my friend Scanlon have looked over a few Zs for people. Some background . I have a '73 240 and I did a ground up redo on my car. Not a restore. I installed a '82ZX engine and it has some mild head work and a moderate cam and SUs , headers and mandrel bent system. I did the suspension with Euro stage 1 springs and KYB struts. All work on my Z was done by me with help from my friend. He taught me tons. I went over this just to qualify myself. I know my way around a Z. Mustang not so much. . If by chance you find a Z out here in the North West , give us a shout. Gary

If the pump is shot , you just need to replace it . there is no fixing it. You need a injector rated pump. Your local parts store should be able to help you out. Unless you can find one in a bone yard. Gary

Good find it seems . Welcome to the group. With Summer just around the corner you will have some great weather for some cruising. Where are you in Wa.? There are several Z drivers in Vancouver Wa. And there is a Z club in Seattle. In fact the Wa. Z Club is coming down to my neck of the woods for a cruise up the Columbia Gorge toward the end of this month. I live just West of Portland. Good to have you aboard. Gary

[quote name=TriDaw Is there something i have missed or special technique to getting this thing off? Im sure the answer is right in front of me, but im just too blind to see it. Thanks in advance. Just allow the rear of the air cleaner to lower and then with it pointing upward, just slide it toward the front of the engine and it will slip right out . Save the air cleaner in case you become tired of smelling fumes and want to reinstall it later. Gary

I recently ran my Z on a dyno. It is a 240 with a 82ZX engine , milled head with 9.5 compression. Mild but better than the 8.somthing stock. Headers and a 2 1/2'' exhaust. I am running S Us. and a ZX ignition and a stage 2 cam. Being different dynos read differently and are only meant for a base line really. My numbers are 118 hp and 151 ft lbs. at the wheels. Right after I ran my Z there was another Z with a Robelo stroker with triple Weber's and his Hp was 156 I don't know the ft lbs. Same dyno. So 151 hp stock ..... go figure. Gary

You are on the right track , however you don't need a 30amp fuse, a 20 amp is plenty. Your Z is most likely prewired for a electric pump. Not sure about the '70, but from '71 on everyone I have seen is. Just follow the wiring for the sending unit at the gas tank up toward the rear of the Z. Look for the wires wrapped in blue tape. Green is the hot Black ground. If you still wish to have a manual switch though I recommend a pressure switch also . I added mine at the oil pressure sending unit. I bought a tee that the oil sender screws into and the other end a male goes into the engine block. A pressure switch goes in the third opening of the tee. Mind activates at 5lbs pressure. It has two spade connectors on it and I simply wired the pressure switch into the loop on the hot side of the circuit. This way when there is a loss of oil pressure the fuel pump stops pumping. The engine easily will start on the gas in the carbs, this will not work on a injected engine though. With carbs it is great. It has saved me from a fire once so far, so I swear by this method. Also another safety method is a inertia switch. Ford uses them on there pickup's. In a crash it will open the circuit stopping the flow. Gary

Kyle, welcome to the group. I like you , had to wait to have my Z . Some 30 yrs. . I have wanted one of these cars since a friend bought a new '70 240. I bought my 240Z Feb.2000 and have NEVER been sorry. Good to have you with us. Great looking Z ''enjoy the ride'' Gary

What I have been using is a cheep little kit I bought at harbor fright. Ask for the ''one man bleeder'' Vary easy to make your self. It consists of a small plastic bottle , 3 or 4 oz., with a magnet attached to it . Drill a hole in the top for a plastic hose that slips over the drain ''nipple'' on the cylinder or caliper then when in the bottle it extends to the bottom. You simply add about 1/2'' of brake fluid to the bottle and insert the hose . Connect the tubeing to the nipple and open the nipple. I usually pump four pumps then top off the master cylinder. Check the bottle to be sure it isn't over filled. Just check the tubing for bubbles , when none is seen close the ''nipple''. The magnet on the bottle allows you to just stick it on the suspension to hold it in place. Allow your self 18'' or so of tubing so you can easily attach the bottle to something metal. I looked at the speed bleeders a couple of years ago and read several threads on hybridz where some were having trouble with them leaking. There was also a home made pressure bleeder that some were building for this . However the simple method works so well for me, have no need to complicate the process. I have been using a similar method to this kit for over 40+ yrs , but the magnet idea is a great improvement. Gary

Kurt, I am running about the same set up as you now. I have a Dist from a manual tranny Z. I have a F-54 with a P-79 now and with SUs . I have never had any issues with detonation so far and I have about 40K on the engine. the compression is 9.5 since the head is milled. and am running at 15btdc also. When I had my L-24 in the Z, I had the same dist and never a problem at 10 and 12* advance. I am wondering if the shape of the combustion chamber maybe the reason for the early engines like Arne's detonating, that and his has higher compression. My L-24 was bone stock and a '73. Both engines I connected the same way with the ported vacuum supplying the advance pot. Gary

There is a fresh air/vent line that runs from the gas tank to the evap tank. It exits the tank just above the sending unit for he fuel gage. Then it exits the Evaporation Tank , evap, and goes forward to the driver side of the engine where it is attached to a three way valve , Brass and it has one inlet one exit to the air cleaner and another attaches to the breather coming out of the engine block. These are all about 3/8'' hoses. What the brass valve does is it allows air to flow into the gas tank from the clean side of the air cleaner, and then when there is pressure in the gas tank from expansion on a hot day, it vent into the engine. So look for a small hose back above the sending unit. By the way , your Z is already wired for a electric pump back by the tank. Follow the wires going to the sending unit back up toward where it comes down from the floor. Find a couple of wires one green and one black , rolled up and taped with blue tape . This is what they are for. Black is ground. Gary

I am glad this worked out for you. I do have a question though. How often do you change the oil and filter. And do you lube the steering rack and tie rod ends? I have always just made it part of changing the oil , I just do the ball joints and tie rods and steering rack. As for the U-joints someone said no one lubes them, these should go about 20k miles between lubrication. As long as you don't blow out the little seals when applying the grease. If this happens then lube them every other oil change. Generally I am under the car from time to time and I lube the U-joints every couple of years. I have always attended to the lubrication like this since I have been driving my own cars, 54 years, and I have never had to replace a tie rod end or ball joint. I changed all the u-joints on my Z 9 years ago, when I bought it. Keep the stuff lubed and it will last years.

It looks like a noise suppressor to eliminate static on your radio from the ignition . But the pictures are not showing where the wire is coming from. Maybe someone with a ZX will jump in here. Gary