beandip

I have found that Meguiar's plastic cleaner. There are 3 separate bottles and it is a three step process . #17 then #10 followed by #18. I have used it on my tail light lenses as well as on the turn signal lenses. I am vary happy with the results. Inside and out of my cars. I had thought I was going to need new lenses for the turn signals but they came back to a fine shine. If you use a electric buffer, just be careful not to over heat the surface just the same as you would paint when buffing it. This stuff is NOT for painted surfaces. Gary

$1200 is not going to go vary far with a 240 . You can find them but they will need a lot of work to even make one safe to drive. You are MUCH better off holding off untill you have more to devote to your quest. 8 years ago you could find them but doubtful now. Gary :-(

Welding a plate on a jack stand is a nice way to go , however it may make them a problem to store afterward. The 3/4'' plywood will provide plenty of surface for stability. Remember you can apply pressure on any of the fasteners perpendicular rather than side to side of the car. If you are uncomfortable with thinking the car is still unstable. Remember if you are replacing the inner control arm bushings and the spindle pin bushings that they must be torqued down with the suspension under a load. 200 to 300 lbs loaded into the rear of your Z and the car resting on the tires , then torquing down the fasteners. Failure to do this will cause the premature failure of the bushings. I just tighten the fasteners just past finger tight, lower the car and back it up 6' or so then forward and up on a couple of 2 X 4s to rise it up a little then reach under with my torque wrench and torque everything down. A spindle pin puller makes the job much easier. Gary

All that was said already I agree with. Your location will make a big difference in the value of your Z. How much you put into the car your self in the way of labor, if you do the job correctly, will help you when you sell the car. What I look at is what would you buy , that has the style and performance that a Z has? What would you have to spend for that car. Sure a Miata or Beamer will out perform and they are beautiful . However every time you drive to the market you see a couple of them. Plus if you are into your Z say 8K how far would that same money go toward the Meata or Beamer. . I paid $500.00 for my 240Z I have over 10X that in it plus 3yrs work. I did almost all the work my self. Estimated value 16K, could I sell it for that I don't know but this is the agreed upon value on my policy backed up with a appraisal.

There are licensed appraisers out there . We had one come to our Club meeting as a guest speaker. I suggest you locate one near you . Generally it costs around $300.00 The do classics and Hot Rods and there findings are accepted by Ins. Companies and the Courts.

It is not necessary to do a oil change. Just top it off. If you look close on the damper rod there is a high level mark. If you do over fill the damner it is no big thing as the engine will burn the excises. I have personally found that 20wt works the best for me. This is the wt that is recommended by Nissan/Datsun when they were dealing with the SUs.

What is your budget for the project? Be aware you are looking at some bucks to have all this done and done right. Most likely $12,000.00 + for what you are mentioning. This would be a good price. Gary

Well, numbers matching was and is not important to me. I gave my L-24 engine away. I installed a 82 ZX engine and am vary happy with the up grade. I kept the SUs . On my L-24 I had installed a ZX ignition and am still running it and again vary happy. When I replaced the front and rear Axel bearings I used Nissan. I would not do that again, Timken make super bearings and are made in the USA and the cost is way less. I did install KYB G-2 struts and would do it the same again. I also installed a set of Euro stage I springs , and am vary happy with the results , however they are NLA unless they reissue them again. I installed a ZX alternator and the head light harness up grade along with H-4 head lights with 90/100 bulbs also the tail light harness up grade. All I give a big thumbs up. The only thing I did that I changed is the gearing . I had installed a R-200 that was supposed to be a 3.70 but turned out to be a 3.90. I pulled it and put back a R-180 with 3.54s and I am vary pleased. One more thing I removed the Polly bushings that were on the car and went with OEM rubber. My performance didn't suffer and the road noise is 40% less. Hope this helps you. Gary

I would like one just like you are showing , either on a Tee shirt or Sweat Shirt or both . Gary

How old is your Z ? Do you think that maybe someone has moved the resister to a different location ? Mine was located just below the coil but horizontal not vertical like in the picture. I tossed mine years ago.

Ron, some time back I spotted a Z with a spook like the first picture. See how the ends blend with the body line more and terminate around farther up to the curve of the wheel opening? This is what I was trying to find, and I did they were made in Queensland I believe any way, some where in Australia. bravo6 helped me find a owner down under. The Company is no longer in business. I was wanting to buy several and have them shipped over for re sail , to cover my cost of shipping. By the way Les Conaday has the original BRE molds. The one Arne has is vary well made, I cannot compare it to MSA's because I haven't closely checked one out.

Eastwood's reusable can is just fine, just make sure the paint and thinner used is compatible with the paint you are covering. Most all aerosols use unoderized propane for propellant. If you use a water trap on your compressor you should be fine. Single stage only means that it is the only paint that is necessary to archive the shine or lack of gloss you desire. Two stage, the color drys flat , no shine, and the clear is what gives it depth and gloss. Generally off the shelve rattle can paints are likely to be a problem in the future if you have the car painted by a shop. It vary likely will lift. This is another reason to either have some paint loaded in spray cans for you or use the Eastwood reusable.

I am seriously thinking about the trip. I have a Sister in Riverside so that will help. I can stay with her. This will give me a chance to visit with her. Arne , if this comes off we could make it together. I was thinking of taking in the Roadster Show on the way down . I am fairly sure that there are some of the Datsun N W people driving down as well. At least to Solvang. Gary

If you can find a '72 240 harness the only difference is the '73 has intermittent wipers. Now that is if you change the whole harness. The wiring is the same but '73 used fewer and larger connectors. I rewired my '73 with a complete '72 harness from one end to the other. You need to add a yellow wire from the combo switch to the wiper motor to make the intermittent work. '71 and '72 are the same. Gary

removing the glass is simple with razor knife as was posted. Be vary careful with the 1/4 windows , the frame is in two pieces screwed together. The attachments that hold them together if rusted can separate. then you will have 4 pieces and a problem. The window slides forward toward the door opening. To install the hatch glass and windshield use plenty of glass cleaner to help make the gasket slick. Install the metal strips into the gasket BEFORE installing the glass in the car. PM me if you want a step by step with the roping in the glass. Gary

I bought the complete kit that were made by Precision and have been completely satisfied with the quality. MSA sells them. You will need to adjust the strikers with the new gaskets because they are new. You will likely find that closing the doors you will need to do it firmly. After a while ,depends it seems by the adjustment. The doors will become easier to close. I always make it a point to close the door completely even when in my garage. Maybe this is way mine became easier soon. Gary

I have question as long as we are on this subject. Is there a problem if you use a four screw spacer on a three screw manifold? Will this block the coolant from travel on through the manifold since it is not circulating through the carbs? Gary

they just wear out! Just replace them with KYB G-2s after 37 years do you think you are the first one to need new struts? How many times are you going to ask the same question?

I have the same KYB G-2s and I recommend them also for a street driven Z. Some things can be rebuilt and some things are not worth fooling with . this is one. Struts are cheep besides.

Find a shop that does Hot Rods and Customs if you can, other wise plan on the car to sit and be used as a fill in, when collision jobs are done. That is if you are having the complete job done. So much depends on your intentions and or expectations for the Z. My Z was orange and I did a complete paint and change of color. If this is your intent and you want the car done right . The engine needs to be pulled and the Glass also. All the rubber gaskets on glass and doors must be replaced. My Z ended up a rolling shell. Then dent removal and prepping for paint. This whole job is a lot of work and it just takes time. 3 years in my case. If this is the job you want for your Z. At least pull your own engine, interior and glass. Take the car to your Shop and push the go button. If you do all that , you should be able to have a great paint job done for about 5K+ depending on what body work is needed. then you will need to reassemble everything. Figure a complete job I outlined here done in a quality shop will run in the neighborhood of $15,000 to $18,000. Most shops wont take on a complete redo. It just takes to long to be paid at the end. They need steady income like we all do. Starting with a deposit then having to wait months for the rest of the money . While having to pay there employees weekly for there time on the car puts a burden financially on the Company. One reason it cost so much to have this kind a job done. I was able to do it all my self , otherwise I would never have afforded the job done. Gary

If in doubt just use a probe and see how deep the hole is and use the stud accordingly. I used studs on all and anti seize a plenty.

for starters why dont you just remove #2 plug wire and remove #3 . try #3 on the 2 plug and dist cap and 2 on the 3 cap port and see if the number 2 cylinder is still effected.

Well they are still available at your Nissan Dealer Hoods also

I know this is vary basic but have they checked the float levels? Obviously it is one of two things . 1. ignition 2. fuel . Ignition and timing fall in the same category. If the butterflys are opening fully and the floats are set properly, the vacuum dampeners are free and not sticking, plus if the Carbs are reasonably close in adjustment. The gas supply is alright , then it must be ignition . You did say that the cam timing was checked. What are you using for ignition? OEM points , ZX , Petronix , what? Do as Arne suggested and try and advancing the timing a little and see if there is any improvement . I am running 16* advance with a ZX ignition and my engine runs great. Don't go to that advance right off if you are running a different dist. than I am. Keep us in the the loop on this. Gary

You bet, there are a few ''vapor'' recovery hoses that can cause this. For starters look by the muffler at the lower rear of the fuel tank. This hose runs up into the cabin area to a evap tank that hides in back of a plastic panel where the filler is located. This is a likely a source for your problem. If you do a search on removal of this tank you will find complete instructions . I removed this system years back and am happy I did so. I showed a member what to do and he posted the step by step. You might check the gage sender and the fuel supply and return lines while you are at it . They are together on the driver side of the gas tank. Gary