beandip

Peed, If you have checked the half shafts closely and are sure the u-joints are good , the only other thing is the diff , or wheel berrings. Jack up a rear wheel and start the engine and IDLE it in gear and listen to the rear end , you said that y ou just installed the new unit , did you have it apart? Could something have come loose inside ? By spinning the wheel you can listen to both the wheel bering and gears at the same time. Then try the other side.

I recently contacted my farmers agent because I am dismanteling the Z and it wont be driveable for some time. He suggested that we change the policy to one of not driveable and I am covered with comp. only , covering fire and theft. Cost $9.00 per year. When the car is ready for the road , at that time I will take pictures and he will insure the car with an agreed upon value policy . If Farmers will do it others should , check with your agent. There is a limit on milage and that varies with the policy . :classic:

:classic: I am not sure just what you are having trouble with , however I was having a surging of rpm from a standing start , say from idle at a signal and then a flat spot after , then smooth increase in rpm there after. I changed to 20wt oil in the dampners and it all cleared up. I went to 20 wt fork oil from a Cycle shop.

I bought my '73 two years ago and have been driving it almost daily . Paid $500. It is mostly rust free , needs floor pan on the passanger side only .

Just from the little info. given I think 1K is vary optomistic with the valve fixed. $300 to $500. for a donor is about right depending on the condition of the chrome and completeness of the rest of the car , knobs , weither t he dash is any good that sort of thing. If the engine is slugged to the point of sticking a valve and the brake fluid is as stated most likely it's a parts car. SORRY ! If the car was in good running condition and the brakes were good and the rust was mostly just surface not pitting and blistering and the floor pans were good $1000.00 sure. good luck:o

It appears that there are few dim bulbs behind the wheel as well an in there tail lights. I can't imagine some one wanting to dim the lighting on the rear of there car .

:classic: Is there any one going to the Portland Auto Show ?? There is a group of Z-Car owners meeting at the north entrence at 11:00 tomarrow morning , that is Sat . 2/1 all are welcome . :classic:

This has been done thousands of times. There are differences in the 5 speeds as far as gearing the later cars are close ratio . '80--'83 I believe . You need the drive shaft and of cource the clutch and pressure plate and a new flywheel and throwout bearing and pilot bushing , Master cylinder for the cluch as well as the peddle. I suggest going to geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html there is a ton of info. for you there in all areas . What is the condition of your auto trans. I am running a '73 with the same one and do not want to go to a manual . I might be interested in a spair. Gary:classic:

I have tried to paint both ways and believe me pulling ing the engine is the best. You can paint without doing that, but if you want it to look really sharp , there is no substitute to spraying , brushing will look like that it was brushed . It all depends upon what you are looking for. If you are driving a 240 there isn't alot of things to do to pull the engine, a later car with injection and smog plumbing is another matter. I am pulling my engine next weekend , if all goes as planned, and am detailing the engine while out. Thats another benifit. My car is not a daily driver , that makes a big difference. Another thing on my Z is I have a small rust issue by the batt. as most Zs do. I am also prepairing the car for paint, and yesterday I removed the right front fender . I wish I had a digital camera , there was about 1 cup full of bird seed from our bird feeder stuffed in the space under the fender in front of the batt, that flat area of the top of the fender. From MICE ! From now on I will be sure to flush this area when I wash the car. Nuff said. If you cant pull the engine clean thebay the best you can , hook a hose to the hot water heater and use simple green and a scrub brush and go at it , dont rush it and it will come out great . Good luck. Gary:classic:

:classic: Carl , thanks for the reply , that is exactly the information that I am looking for, I am working on building a nice daily cruser , not for racing. I am looking to improve performance in both power and driveability, but do not want to compromise the ride too a great extent and make it stiff to the point of being uncomfortable. I am installing a slightly built 280ZX when this car is reassembled, with headders and running SUs . I am also installing a R-200 in a 3.70 gearing, and , dont gag , running an automatic trans. I realy do not want to change from that unless I can no longer find parts and then I will need to. Just mentioning this so you can see where I am coming from. Also at '64 I want to " enjoy the ride " . :classic: Thanks Again Gary

Importedcarparts.com has any one used these people? they seem to have great prices. at least for gaskets and a turbo oil pump and struts . I am just wondering about quality. KYB struts for $36.94 the price seens good but what about the brand ? also gaskets like pan and valve cover , Ishino , I am not aquainted with the brand. good , bad, what ?

isn't that a beautiful smile ? I am going to change it when I can figure out how .:classic:

Quick thinking sounds like you dodged the bullet this time. Congrads. Hope she enjoys the new toy. :classic:

Check the rubber mount inthe front of the diff. also the bushings on the mushtash bar . If the alignment is off on the diff and under pressure it is allowed to tilt , this can cause stress on the universal joints. It's something to look at . my 2c P.S. it's tuff to check the front diff mount with out removing it .

There is a vacume line by the front carb that goes to the vacume advance on the dist, and one at the rear of the ballance tube that connects to the vacume booster to the master cylinder , there is another vacume line that connects to the trans , if you have a automatic trans. That's it , unless you still have smog junk running and if thats so I cannot help you sorry. You can check for a vacume leak by spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold at all it's connections points and you will be able to note the change in idle speed, sorry I dident say this is done with the enging running.

Just asking because are you sure that it is because of linkage adjustment ? It is hard to help form the description, but I think that what you are describing is the two screws nearest each dome on the linkage side of the of each carb , those are the ballance screws and the one that in the center closer to valve cover by it's self, is the idle screw. If you cannot get the idle to lower to proper levels you most likely have a vacume leak. If you have the carb off the manifold and you hold it up to a light and look into the throat at the butterfly and it is closed you should not be able to see any light around the edges . If you can then then the butterfly must be adjusted so that it seals all the way arround other wise it is like the throttle is partially open. This may not be your problem , especially if you have not had them apart or off the engine , unless they have come loose. Each butterfly is held in place with two brass screws that are lock-tighted in place so if you do loosen them to adjust , be sure to use lock-tight when you finish. Good luck Gary

Today I saw the best set up for an engine stand to work on a L - engine and I hope one of our members will sheare the design with us . This holds the block form the side and allows free access and the engine to be able to spin 360 degrees. It is amazing to see the talent that is out here . I am at a aha from those that know electrical to paint and design . It is my privledge to know you all, I mean it.

dident you get my post about the importparts co. in Portland:finger: :

:classic: Is there any one out there that can tell me the aprox difference there will be when I change diff. , that is at say 60mph . Presently I am running 3.54 s and am installing 3.70 not a big jump ,but I was wondering what to expect after all is completed. I am going from a good R-180 to a newer R200 just wondered if it was worth the effort , thanks for the input stupid:

What I have seen done is to pound a old socket over the bolt head and just use a 1/2" drive and back it out. It destroys the socket but it works.

Scanlon told me a while back that the clocks are really a wind up type clock that uses a small electric motor to wind the spring from time to time . That is why if you listen youcan hear it ticking. I dont know with out traceing the wireing weather or not it is 12v but I think most likely it is . If that is the case the clock wont use hardly any power so most any proper voltage sorce should do just fine.

I have been removing the stuff on my '73 . I am working in a unheated garage , not too cold about 45degs. and using a scraper that I ground from one side like a wood chisel , about an 11/2 wide and just tapping with a small hammer. It came off in chips from stamp size to that of a paper dollar. The rear hatch was clean with out rust at all but the floor on the passanger side will need to be replaced and likely the drivers side as well. This side could be repaired with POR 15 and matting but most likely I will do both sides . The rear hatch I finished today took about 2hrs. at most , by the time all was cleaned an vacumed the foot wells took about 2hrs. each side. If I were to do this again I would go the Ice method if it started to only chip off in small chips . Dry ice is cheep and I think cold is the better way to go. The tranny tunnel , I am only going to go up the side untill I nolonger find rust and then another couple of inches. All bare metal will get POR after sandblasting.

I have some head bolts bu t there all in engines.

Thanks vary much for the offer . If I can get what I need now I will be set . I will keep you in mind. Thanks again 1.5 that helps. Gary

do you know what the thread pitch and number per inch or mm ??