beandip

That is unless you already have a XK-E

if working on the car and the owner is going to pay the cost of repair or sell the repaired car to the mechanic. I think that they should arrive at a present value , then the mechanic should keep track of his costs and labor and keep the owner informed on what he finds as the repair goes on and needs to be agreed upon by the owner , before further work is done . This should be documented , for both parties benifit .That way when the project is completed , in either way . The value or cost can be determined. Obviously the Z after repairs are done , will be worth more . This I think would protect both parties , and the owner should set a limit to what she wants to put into the repairs. If something were to happen to the owner the estate would have to pay off the repair costs. thats my 2cts

I would definatly get another openion , did the source of the openion offer to buy the car from you ?? The thing here is this , if you can find a body shop that does custom work, they will be the better source for repair and a experienced openion . Not to deminish the person that you talked to , but there are so many "body shops" that are just pannel replacers and not skilled in true body work actually forming sheet metal and doing the replacement needed when working on these cars. As Kmack has said , if you really love the car , repair it but dont do it for an investment. If you look at it that way you will be able to make a better decision. Some times the cost of repair of severe rust damage is too much and maby it would be better to replace the car with one that is in better shape. I saw one on e-bay last night that wint for $1800.00 I couldent believe it . It was in Col. now it mey have had problems too ,but there are cars out there that are vary much worth saving . The one you have may be one . By all means do some checking . As time goes on I believe the value of these car is deffinately going to increse because they are becoming fewer at an astonishing rate. Just 3 yrs ago I would see Z cars that early ones almost every day . Now its more like 2 in a month. In 1961 I sold my '32 Ford 3 window for $350.00 right now it would be worth $45,000. easy. The car to bring this kind of $ has to be show ready . The same with the Zs . Right now where could you buy a really fine sports car , for under $10K save the car if you can if the numbers work. Good luck , Gary P.S. The parts are available and not too costly like Kamack said.

Depending on how much the rust has eaten away. Unless you are aquainted with Z cars, check under the car the rocker and tranny tunnel is tht main part of the frame , if eaten bad enough the car could just bend in the middle. Your call.

I agree with Mike . If you want a project , for $200. , you are not into it too deep. Zedd findings has the sheet metal parts. check out datsunzparts.com

If you see any of the white stuff that I mentioned before , you might think about paint, any moisture coming from under the slab will cause the paint to lift. If that is the case then think about just using a sealer like Thompsons water seal , it leaves the concrete looking like it is wet . It wont peal or chip because it soaks into the cement , I don't know any thing that will penetrate it. Paint will not stick to it either .

HE NEEDS A BLOODY TRANSFUSION

Silica sand will add the texture so it is a little non skid. Like scanlon said with out it , it's like ice when wet. I have used porch paint with good results that is concrete porch or deck paint . you can also mix the sand in the paint before you apply just mix often. Moisture coming from underneth the paint will cause it to blister. So if you have noticed white dusty stuff forming on the cement , sort of looks like soap residue, chances are the paint will blister and lift . The problem if you seal the surface the paint will not have enough " tooth" for the paint to stick to. If done right it looks great . I did my basement work shop and it was great , much better to clean spills and such.

I am with Mike what happened to the origional owner ? Buzzard bait out in the deseart ? The rockers are part of the main structure of the car and vary important to the strength of the whole car. Rust not a little thing in these cars. You dident give alot of detailed information on it's extent but from what you did state , I sounds like a shakey project. Its likely you will find what you see in the tip of the ice berg . Good luck

At present , I have started stripping out all the interior and dash, need to cure some electrical gremlens also, and the plan is to get the car ready for paint in the early summer. I have a bid to have the engine bay and the whole interior and with the front fenders off , have the rolling shell sand blasted , $100.00 . I am pulling the engine any way to make way for my 280zx engine. Thats the plan . So far I was able to get most all the major tar matting off like phu22 said , with it cold and chipping it off. Only I dident use ice it was just cold in the garage. At the time of the sand blasting is when the floor repair will be done . Hopefully by then the top and the rest of the car will be stright and we can start reassembly. Thats the plan, good loard willing and the creek dont rise ! and my wife keeps the HONEY DOOOO LIST short.

They have smaller size rolls at Home Depot, at least they do up here. I forget the size right off the top of my head, but there something like 16"or "18" X 8' . That is if I remember right . I picked some up for escanlon a while back you should ask him . I think they were about $9.00 a roll . I cant remember for sure . If you want I can get the numbers for you and they can order the stuff for you locally . One of the nice things is that it is closed cell foam in there just like what was pictured. I am pritty sure this is the way that I am going only I am going to use the tar-like stuff on the floor of the foot wells. I think the aluminum stuff will crush down after a while . The "tar matting " stuff inside the doors stops the " ringing drum " sound and adds just the right amount of weight so they close like a Rolls. I have also seen used the bed liner RINO LINER sprayed all over the floor , it seals everything and deadins the sound pritty well . If I went that way I would do like escanlon and por 15 whole inside first. Let me know if you need the scew # from Home Depot. Gary

Custom product sales 3115 Crocker Rd. Eugene, Or 97404 541-345-8092 They carry the whole line of P O R 15 products. If you give them a call they will send you a catalog. As for the "tar " mats they are 12"X12" square and will stick in place . They are about 3/32 " thick and they really deaden the sound , real good inside the doors also. Like was mentioned berore escanlon has used both extencively on his '71 . The mats he bought at the parts store that is also an auto paint supply in Vancouver Wa.. I live in Beaverton, and I plan to buy my paint supplys from him, the guy knows what he is doing. escanlon is a member here and if you contact him you will find he is more than willing to help. All the best gary

I am not supprised from the way you were answering the past posts . Keep us informed on your progress , and what you find when you get into your process of cleaning up and repair. I hope that she is all that you expect . Gary

Turko that is the guy ! He was looking for some round top SUs and a steering wheel from a 240 and some other little stuff . I was able to gather it all for him but he changed his mind and said that he thought he had found the SUs in England. So I got rid of most of the stuff . Any way I guess you wont be driving your Z untill spring is that right ? By the way I just pulled up the pictures . Both cars are looking good ! What are you running for fuel delivery on the '74 injection or side drafts? If carbs. I hope they are round top SUs or anything but the flat top SUs . ZZZEEEEya Gary

my e-mail address is g.moisant@attbi.com it is 1:30 am here and I have had a few with new years an all and am 1/2 in the bag ,and closeing untill tomarrow . Gary

There is a great post here on the forum that has a download of a 350 at speed its great ! You will need to go thru the posts as I dont remember which one had it . But is is really good , taken in europe .

I was in contact with a Z-car owner a while back and he had a beautiful yellow Z could this be the same guy ? He had said that there were only a few Z cars in your country. His car had been featured in a magazine. Could you be the same gey??

What time is it there ? Its just half past midnight here . Any way , Its a shame that it seems so costly to do the thing with the ZCar . I am afraid that here they are taken for granted. I bought my '73 two years ago and drove it home . $500.00 and have been driving it for the past two years and have only replaced the brakes and ignition to a "79zx . I have been getting great mileage and so much enjoyment driving the car , its been a dream come true for me . I have wanted one of these cars since '70 . I am starting to do the restore and hope to have a good driver this summer with a new paint job and ready to take a trip. At my age I dont buy green bannas and I would like nothing more than take a loong drive in my 240. Have a great new year gary

I sure wish I had a way to get a z to you . I know of a 73 that the guy has all the body work done and the engine ready to install but has lost intrest in the project and his step dad has finely had it with the "junk" all over the barn taking up needed space and has told him to get it out and him too. He is a flake and it's been 3yrs. I cannot blame him , the dad that is. But that is another matter. I dont have a clue what it would cost to ship a car to you. I saw an air dam for sale in ozz and asked what it would cost to buy it and ship it to US and Oregon but I dident get a reply and I was serious on the the air dam . Here to if the numbers work I will see what I can do for you . Gary

Thanks soooooooo much for the footage . That's the best the toad has looked raally looking good and I agree the recovery was great.

Dero , where did you get the air dam you have in the picture of your 240 ?

That is so true so much has happeded and the time has passed so quickly. All , have a great and safe new year , and God bless us all ! And above all else lets enjoy the ride.

I agree it sounds like you have the 240 itch , sound familar and simular to mine. I think that you should step back and read all the privious posts here again ,and hear what isnt being said right out. Be careful be vary carful . Please remember what Alan T said , this rust can turn into a money pit. Another thing If the rest of the car is in the condition that has been described , do you really expect the engine to be any better ? Vary likely you will need to go through the engine before vary long in addition to the body repair. Especially as you said you planned to race the car. There are clean Zcars out there that are in good shape to start with , wouldent it be better to pay maby 2K more for a car that wont require 5k in repairs ? What I am saying is to not be rushed into this car , just because it has a fairlady emblem and an airdam. Both can be bought on e-bay for cheep. 280zx F54 engines are rather plentyful at this time and are supposedly the strongest blocks a great starting place for a strong runner if that is what you are looking for. Calif and Az are a great place to look for rust free cars , Phoenix , if thats where you are keep looking. I dont think that is what you want to hear, but think about it. We all want to help here ! All the best to you , GAry Portland Or. If I come accross a good one I 'll post it >

Is that true ? I was having my wife's car worked on the other day , just before Christmas, andwhile waiting I read in one of the Sports car magazines that Nissan isn't going to ship andy 350s over because the certification was too costly . Has any one else read or heard this ? I drove by the dealer yesterday and they had three out front out in the rain . I keep trying to like the looks but just cant. Any way Could the cost to certify the car be that costly !