beandip

thanks mate b zzzzzzzzzing ya

In my L-24 I am running a '79zx dist, and am going to replace the cap and rotor. I just wondered if any one had an openion on the brands of parts. I use ngk BP6RS plugs which I will stay with but what about the cap and rotor , DAIICHI OR BOSCH , or one that is a F2010-27437. I am not aquainted with any of these and wondered if they are with aluminum or brass contacts . The cost is not an issue it quality that I want . Is the F2010 Nissan ?? I have a new set of ignition 8mm wires . Thanks in advance .

I have been where you are in this, and I feel for you . My prayers are with you and your family . All the best . Gary

If you are looking for a parts car thats one thing but if you are looking for a project, believe me get the cleanest rust free car you can afford. To restore one that is rusted and or needs body work and paint and just a little tlc. can get vary expensive. Interior parts are not cheep if you want the car to look stock. And even if not it is not cheep . Paint is going to be at least $1300. for a real good job and that is not with any body damage. With a good paint job the bumpers if now really sharp will look shabby as well as the trim around the windows , and then the interior , an so on an so on an so on, find a clean driver with no rust and go from there.

I wish someone smarter than I would come u p with an automatic shut off of the electric fuel pump , if in an accident you flip over or if in a collision. As an retired fireman I have seen enough that I dont want to be french fried in my own gas. If it could be connected to the oil pressure sender so if no oil pressure then the fuel pump would stop. Just a thought .

I have a '73 and now it has a louver on the hatch window. I have only had the car for 11/2 yrs . It had a couple sets of holes in the hatch when I bought it and I found the louver set . There are hinges at the top , and yes they are so you can wash the window. at the bottom are cross bolt locks to hold the bottom down. The louvers have zero effect on visiability, I can see just as good as without and they keep the car cooler in the sun and sofar I can see no draw backs , as another plus , the contents in the rear are not seen easily from outside. I did notice that it rattled at first but after I put on new tires , no more vibration and no more rattle

from what I can see you already have too much time on your hands

the local dealer here in beaverton ( suberb of Portland Or) sold there 350z get this for $ 15,000 over sticker. I was there when they were geting it ready for delivery. Like the man said there is one borne every min. . I wouldent trade it for my 240 honest, that is if I couldent sell it and had to drive it. W E L L maby I could wear a mask or somthing. Damn there UGLY

across with just a few dollars it would make a big difference. It just seams to me that we are taking and not giving . I dont believe in a free ride . I am not going to mention this again and am going to do my own thing. I cincerly hope others will also. They will take pay-pal ! If we can buy stuff on e-bay 10 dollars a year cant push any one over the edge. Nuf said !! The best to all Gary

If you are looking for a car for a drag racing venue , look for a '70 or '71 . They are the lightest , as far as the source I think you will just need to look around . Check with the bone yards and auctions . If all you want is a off street drag car , most any shell will do if the sheet metal is in tact , to be able to withstand the stresses of that use you will most likely will want to replace the body pan and install a tube frame like the "funny cars" .

If you are like me and enjoy the use of this great web site , and look forward to checking in daily , then I ask you what are you contributing to the club ? I personally have obtained valuable information here and have tried to pass on what knowledge I have. Recently it came to my attention that the moderator of this site is spending over $125.00 per month out of his own pocket to keep the web site going ! I want to state here that Mike has no knowledge of this post and it is just my own thoughts here. I think that at least for me ,that I do not expect any free ride , here or in life, and I perpose that we donate some $$ to help with this endever. I f we each donated $1.00 per mo or $12.00 per year , that much wont break any one and will keep things going. I know that I derive a great deal of enjoyment shareing this venue with all of you and have gained a lot of knowledge of the fine cars that we all enjoy. NUF SAID . gary

and if you install a tripple you have one per cylinder . So it has been tried and is common.

dident you get my e=mail I sent you contact me If y ou still are in need

How was the move I hope all went well . If you need help with the car I will be free after the 8 th. I dont do moving but I will help with the Z if I can, just let me know. Gary

I put in my name and escanlon's picture showed up ???

with all the great information given . $100. for the cob webs $20.00for the flat tires ( $5.00 each ) and $50.00 forthe Z . thats $175.00

The value of the car in some degree is dependent on the location . There in Florida are the240s common as they are in Az & Ca ? Mostly as the others have stated the Rust is the biggest thing , on a couple of the pictures , it may be water drops or reflections but if not it looked like blisters in the paint . If there is any blisters in the paint that will drop the value a lot because they will grow in short order . One area of common rust is also at the rear hatch , when you open the hatch , look to each corner of the sill and also on the maiting corner of the hatch. Water has a tendancey to collect and rust out both of these areas. Of cource all of this stuff can be repaired but you are looking at a new paint job as well as the rust repair . Paint could run 1500. and depending on what was covered up much higher . So look closely for paint blisters . From what I have seen in the pictures , you would be in good shape at $2000. for the car. If you can get in touch with the privious owner , that could be a great great help. I picked up my '73 for $500. and have been driving it for the past 2 yrs. , but by the time I get the body work done and paint and all I will easily have 2000. in it and that is doing alot of the work my self. This car is a hobby with me so I enjoy working on it. Keep us informed on how you do, All the best to you , good luck Gary

Contact escanlon he is a pro at taking them apart. as far as the lenses Mcguires has a 3 step polish that works wonders.

can you turn the engine over with a ratchet and socket on the crank shaft bolt?? Now most likely you will need to pull the pluggs first. If you can turn the engine over this way then it isn't frozen up , I f the batt. is fully charged and it wont turn over with the key and the plugs are out you most likely have a bad connection some where , check the ground wire. How long has this engine been setting sence the last time it ran? This clunking noise , is it the starter engaging , that noise or is it when the engine is turning over ?? I am sure that you know that fluid will not compress , how much oil did you inseart into the cylinders ??Gary

Has any one else had this trouble ? What I have found is that the E brake cable has failed and what is the cause is the plastic covering of the cable at the bottom end by the drivers side where it connects to the brake adjuster part. I found that the covering split and caused the cable to jam and in effect made the adjuster inoperative . now what happends is you only end up with 3 wheel brakes. I have found this on more than one car and was just offering a heads up for every one to check there cars. It may be caused by the heat from the exhaust and muffler, only a guess but it is worth a look.

the best advise I can give is find the cleanest rust free car you can find. From there what do you like and how much cash do you want to spend? I personally prefer the 240 I have a '73 and I like this year and the older cars the most, however the 280s up untill the chage is body style. I do not favor the 2+2 unless I was going to race at Boniville salt flats or something oike that. I personally am not into electronics and enjoy the simpleness of the 240 . The carbs are the round top S Us and with a '79zx ignition the engine runs great and the car is a joy to drive. My truck and camery sit as I drive the Z any time I get a chance, and most always take the long way home. Getting back , Rust in the biggest concern look closely under the battery box area and along the bottom of the fenders and along the body at the bottom of the door . Look all over the painted surface and look for blisters coming from under the paint , that is rust and it is comming from behind the sheet metal, be aware!! the value of the cars depends greatly on where you live. There are still a lot of clenan 240s but you have to find them. Look in Cal. Az Navada and coloradio.