beandip

If in doubt prop open the throttle to hold the butterfly's open. As was stated the vacuum piston is a non issue. :classic:

Looks good. EScanlon showed me this mod several years ago and I did it right then. I agree thanks E. This is a mod that should be contemplated by anyone that has a early Z in my estimation. I used a plumbing one inch 45* PVC elbow instead of the 90* . Not necessary to cut the fitting, it slides right in to hte Cowl drain tube. I used silicone sealer on both the fitting and hose. Same at the bottom to hold the hose in place while installing the fender. I just mention this for future readers. The parts I used are common items at Home Depot and easy to find.

A couple of things that haven't been addressed here yet. first the spindle pin will come out fairly easy. Depending on weather the car is from the Rust Belt '' road salt'' or not. With a spindle pin puller. Second , this is important. When you reassemble the controll arm into the car. If you torque the bolts down with the suspension extended while the car is up on jack stands . When the Z is lowered to the ground you have preloaded the bushings and they will fail prematurely, because they will be twisted. The factory recommends that you just lightly tighten the assembly while the Z is lifted. Then lower the car to the ground and add weight. They recommended two 150 lb persons. Then torque the fasteners to spec. I lower my Z onto a couple of blocks to make it easier to access the inner control arm bushings. My Z is lowered . Gary

there is another ZSaint . you related ?

Texas Rider, sounds to me that you are interested primarily in straight line performance. Since these cars were designed mostly with road racing in mind. The off the line is secondary. I think you would be vary happy with a small Block under he hood. You would be far and away ahead in the power range and the weight is almost the same. The engine sets farther back and more in the center of the car. The 5 speed and Diff. from a 280 ZX will adapt and is vary strong. With this and the weight advantage you could easily be seeing your friends in the rear view mirror. As you stated, speed costs money , how fast do you want to spend. Gary

Be careful when cleaning the sludge . If you dislodge any large particles they can block oil passages. Regular oil changes and a good quality oil should clean this stuff and keep it from building up. This sounds like a engine that has been neglected . Check for a faulty PCV valve. This can cause sludge build up.

I guess it depends on weather you use the OEM radio or not. I am using the old AM/FM radio with the switch on the face. However I am using the modern antenna. to do this you need to rewire it to make it work manually. Personally I prefer this because I don't like the appearance of the antenna all the way up. I usually only extend it level with the roof . Because the OEM radio on a 240 isn't compatible with the automatic feature is another reason.

wickman, Since it has been 18 days since your origional posting . I would be surprised if you haven't fixed this. I have tried easy outs in the past many times . For me they are about a 50 , 50 chance of success. Any more if I snap off a stud and cannot remove it with out using one, I take it to a pro . I don't have access to a welder . I will use a eZ out only when it is on something other than the engine. For me they are a last resort. I replaced all the manifold bolts with studs , this way I can use Krol or Blaster with better success. Gary

I hope you changed the oil and filter and shot some oil in the cylinders before you tried to turn the engine over with a wrench. Don't use the starter. When these engines are not running there are two cylinders exposed to the outside air. Plus valve stems are where they are inside the manifolds. Pour oil over the cam and rockers . Then you can turn over the engine if it is not locked up. If you spin the engine with out doing this you can damage things like the cam, rockers, rings that could be rusted to the cylinders walls. If the valve stems are rusty, and the valve sticks down the piston will hit it when it comes up and can bend the valve and or punch a whole in a piston. Also don't flush old gas into the carbs and fuel sysitm it will cause you a lot of extra work. Especially on a car that has been idle outside for this long. with a scoket you can turn the engine over with the nut on the crank shaft in front of the engine. This is preferred because you can feel what is happening and watch the rocker and valves to see that they are moving properly and not sticking. ATF in the cylinders , about a teaspoon full in each, works great to free things up . Put it in and let it soak at least overnight. Good look with this. Gary, I live just outside of Portland.

Well I live in Or. and am exempted . I have only the PCV valve on the balance tube. Everything else has been removed. I am running a 82 ZX with the same header and exhaust and a Cam. Just for kicks I took the Z to the State testing station and didn't say a word about any mods from '73 stock. I passed emissions testing! Surprised me. Gary

On the carbs as was stated, the only thing that will happen if you tip the carbs is the oil and a little gas will spill. I have three suggestions . First take a file and pass it over the header flanges . Pass it so more than one flange is contacted at the same time. This will true the header. Second thing I recommend the use of the gasket sold by Motorsport for there headers. It is a heavy duty gasket . I know personally that it is a good part , plus I have friends that race Z s and they recommended it to me. Even removing the headers later you will likely still have a good gasket. Third Have a look at Dynomax turbo mufflers . I have the same set up as yours and I have had several people comment on the sound of my Z. Especially when my Z was on the dyno at my Club's Car Show. I cannot remember which part # it is , but the entrance is in the center and the exit is on one end of the oval shaped muffler. This will allow you to tuck it up in the fender well so it is hidden and the tip is centered in the slot provided . I bought mine from Summit and they shipped it for free and I received it in two days. This is not a quiet exhaust and if it is too laud , use a thrush glass pack. They have a perforated inside section , rather than a louvered section that closes off some of the flow of exhaust. My 2cts Gary

Derek, like many of us, I have been fighting this same thing for a long time . I shot POR in the same channel on my Z through the marker light holes in the fender. However I still get a little fumes . I am going to try the foam in the ends of the square channel and see if this takes care of it. Thanks for the heads up. Gary

I must add that they did contact me about 5 days after I first sent them the first email reporting the discrepancy. Telling me that they would look into it. That was after the 5th of Dec. Gary

I bought some parts for my 240Z on 11/26/08 I paid with my card for the order but when the box arrived instead of the 5 parts I paid for there were only 3. I immediately contacted AUTOPARTSWAREHOUSE.COM and told them of the shortage. I have since sent them a series of emails . Early on they did respond but nothing this far has been done. Three weeks ago I asked to be refunded the difference or send me the missing parts. I did check with the web site and they do have the parts in stock. According to the information on there site. Being we are now in Jan. '09 I decided to worn everyone. If I do receive either the parts or the cash I will post this information. Gary

I have removed all the poly bushing on my Z mostly because of the road noise they cause . They are harsh, but do tighten up the suspension. Since I do not race my Z , the OEM rubber is vary much quieter but still vary responsive . The tired rubber is gone and with the new rubber installed she handles great. I did install polly bump stops all the way around . Energy Suspension bump stops are soft and not harsh if you do bottom out. I have lowered my 240 and I can bottom out easily on speed bumps but it is not harsh or jarring at all. When I had the Polly bushing on the mustache bar I could hear a lot of gear whine besides the road noise. With the rubber it is 75%+ quieter . I drive my Z on mountain roads alot in the summer. I belong to a Z club and we have cruises once a month and the majority of them involve spirited driving in the twisty s . My 2 ct. Gary:classic:

I tried 47s ,27s, 58s, SMs, and found the 54s to work the best for me. They run a little rich on the top end but great from idle on up. 47s too rich, 27s too lean, 58s lean,SMs vary rich. This is on a ZX motor with a mild cam , headers and 2 1/2'' exhaust. I am by no means a expert but this is what works for me. My '73 is exempt from emission testing however I took my Z and had it tested by the state DEQ testing station. I passed with zero emissions equipment installed. I was a little on the rich side at idle but she cleaned up on the high RPM test. Go figure. above all I am pleased with the performance. 54s are the stock needles used on the L-24 engines ! Gary

Mike , how about the hatch Datsun and the 240Z ? I am presently using a metal 240Z and a plastic Datsun, however the chrome is a little pitted on the 240Z. I have another metal 240 and a metal Datsun for the hatch and the ones for the front fenders, but again they are a little pitted. They all have the pins . Because they are a pot metal type of metal can they be re chromed for a realistic price? Gary

What I have done on both OEM and headers to tru them, is to use a file. I have a couple of files that are about 24'' long and I pass the file over the flanges contacting more than one or two at a time. Then truing them all, mostly they just need to be flat across the whole plane, and only a couple thousands of an inch is removed any way. The gasket will seal any small imperfections . I prefer the gasket sold by Motorsport that they sell for use with there headers. It is thick and seals vary well and I have been able to use on even after removing the manifolds more than one time. Gary

Tony, welcome to the Club. This is the place for information for sure. Being that there is such a time lag for us in the USA , make use of the search function . But don't hesitate to ask any question you may have. Will this engine keep you from being able to enter the Z in the classics competition ? Gary

First do the rust repair/body work . Then deal with prepping for paint. If you take the fender to bare metal it will then rust all over the unprotected metal. Gary

I made mine from a length of 3/16''X 1''X 10'' strap of steel I bought at Home Depot. I just put two 90* bends in it and bolted it to the plate by the mustache bar . I used rubber mounts between the pump and bracket. You just need to make room for the mustache bar. Gary

If you are using the '79zx dist with the '79 coil you do not use the ballast resister . this is the set up I am running also.

If you are

You can check the diff mount by putting a jack under the diff pumpkin and applying lift . If the pumpkin rises first then the car starts of rise. the mount is bad. All should rise at the same time or vary nearly so. Walter is right about the u-joints. There is solution for these , but I haven't done it my self so I cannot advise. I am sure it has been covered on this forum in the past so see if you can fine the information with a search. Or someone may come here that knows. On my Z the u-joints are replaceable. Gary

Here we go again. Carl , don't fall for Tomo's thing. He loves to argue.