beandip

Originally the stock Z-car came with steel wheels and hubcaps the mag type wheels are all aftermarket items installed by the dealers, other things are overriders on the bumpers, and the louvers on the side and rear hatches. there were vary few options available on the first three or four years of these cars , one extra was a am and fm radio . Stock was am only. The automatic trans was a option on '71s . One thing I found about z cars, is that things were changed within the model years , as you begin replacing tired parts on the beauty you will find it to your advantage to keep the old one untill you have installed the new part and find that it fits and functions.

I agree about the front spoilers , I dont have one because I really dont like the look , just personal. and I relly dislike the rear ones. I have read several test report done on the early Z-cars that were done when they were new on the market . The publication at present is on loan to a friend , so the numbers may not be exact but vary close . This is for '70 and '71 cars . At 100 mph the down force on the hood is in the area of 80 lbs and on the hatch it is about 113lbs if I remember right. I to have noticed that my car gets light in the loafers and it starts at about 85 . It is raire that I ever drive at that speed I resist installing a front air dam , how ever just the other day I was challanged by a 5.0 mustang on the FWY and the wind was blowing across at about 15 to 20 mph and I difinatly felt it best to knock it off at 85. I think at 63 I have some good sence left . The simple designs are looking better all the time. I will post the exact data when the book is returned. Did you read that escanlion ? Ha ha

Prook, It sounds to me like the problem is dieseling, and not electrical. the key is that it the idle . The engine is stumbeling and running rough and usually also knocking. The advise to switch to hich grade fuel is right on also check that the choke is completely off when when you move the lever to the off position. Another cause is the engine running rich, I know you said that you just had them done but they may have set them a little rich. I am assuming that you are running , round tops . Alot depends on the condition of the engine , one with good compression is more likely to have this happen also one that is driven on short runs and the engine isn't properly warmed up . Carbon builds up and some times it will glow in the combustion chamber and cause pinging , also called pre detination, which is not good. Now that the weather is warming if you can take the car out and drive it for 20 or 30 miles on the hiway speeds that should help greatly . definatly fill the tank with high octain fuel for the next three or four times and then use pluss . If you want instructions on how to set up SU round tops just e-mail me .

Any one in the Portland Or. area that is in need of either Harbor Freight has a great price . two 3 ton jack stands $12.00 for the pair and a 21/4 ton floor jack $39.00 and this is one with large steel wheels and not the little caster type . I just thought I would pass on a good buy.

Rev, welcome I live in Portland Ore and drive a '73 240 . all the best to ya

dga, I see that E has already covered the service question . About a Ptln club, no not as yet although there are 6 of us Z drivers that are going to get togither soon , let me know if you want to be included

Dumi, how about Z-nube insted. I found a good set of early SUs over the weekend . The whole setup , intake, linkage and aircleaner. If you are interested let me know, and I'll get you the E-mail address. If I dident already have a spair set I would have bought them my self. Any one doing a concours project these are the carbs with the drain in the float bowls. Just passing on info. nothing in it for me. I just want to keep these classics on the road. Good luck.

That is vary true about the SUs being simple , and that they work well . A flow meter , uni-sen , is a must to get them ballanced with out one you are just shooting in the dark. If you want detailed info go to ztherpy.com good luck and keep on zzzzzzeeeen you can find the flowmeter at the local speed shop or check a motorcycle shop .

I forgot to mention that you dont need to change the intake that you have now .

If you have flat top carbs my best advise is to replace them as soon as you can . I just bought a set air cleaner carbs and linkage $190.00 and have another set I got for a friend just the carbs $75.00 the next thing to look at is the ignition get one from a '79 zx and get it all the dist and its mount and the coil. it has a module on the side of the dist. marked 12 80 that is the one to get. The thing that was brought up about cal and emissions is another thing if it effects you. My 73 runs great with round tops and the ignition . the carbs are from a 70 .. good luck

Fly, I put my '73 on the scale and with me in the car , 230lbs the car went in at 2600 lbs with a full tank and all the stock chrome. But what I found interesting that when I weighed just the front end again with myself in the car 1300 and the same with the rear. I had no idea that the ballance was that good. Who would have" thunk it."

Dutch, Maxama trannys will work that is from the cars with the inline six engine and they are 4 speeds. so if you go with a 390 diff you have the best of both worlds.

A good place to look for a Z is in E-Bay the best area to find a rust free car is in AZ, CAl , because of the dry weather, however I live in Oregon and have found several cars with vary little rust. The key here is if the car is garaged or not, no salt is used on the roads so rusted out cars are few and when you find one its usually an import from the mid. west , or a beach car. I found my present '73 240 here in Portland for $500.00 . I need only a little body work $600.00 worth and then paint ,which being relistic ,will run about $1500.00 If I do the prep ,and they only need to do the final prep and mask. I am keeping the stock red (orange), that way the engine bay and all the jams are ok with out repaint. You may need to travel to find a really good one especially if you are looking for a 240 . Best of luck to you , and dont be in a hurry . "You have to kiss a lot of toads before you find a prince" so the story goes. Ha Ha

The recomended weight is 20w . I have been using Mistery oil for a long time but have noticed a lag off the line if I dident have my foot in it. Just a slight stumble and couldent figure it out, but I recently tried some 20w and all is right with the world. The thicker oil allows the piston to rise slower thus giving a richer mixture into the engine before the slide rises. The difference is only a split secound but just enough to clear up the problem. If you are running with an open throttle , like when raceing , then it dosn't make much difference because you are always in the powerband and with elevated rpm. but for street use do your self a favor and try 20w. The only place that I have found it available is at the local motorcycle shop and it is sold as fork oil. As far as the level needed if you over fill the dampiner it just runs out and is burned with the fuel no problem.