beandip

If your rear brakes are locked up. This certainly could cause what your are describing. My friend has a 240 with this vary problem. The z set in a vary damp and sometimes wet enclosure for a couple of years with the E-brake set and now he brake shoes are rusted to the drums.

Arne this is so true! The thing is , these little carbs have all these neat little screws and adjustments just waiting to be screwed with. The same with the timing. I find it funny that these cars have been around and raced and tuned and re-tuned for what, 40 years ! I think that EVERYTHING under the sun has been tried before. I had a guy tell me he was trying brake fluid in the carbs insted of oil to see if it would improve performance... So maybe everything hasn't been tried. :stupid::finger: Gary

Congratulations on the 240 sorry I cannot help with the weber's but I believe the fuel mixture on these is handled with jets sizes. But others here will chime in and help if you start a thread asking for help with triple weber s. enjoy the ride your going to become adicted and there is no cure. Gary

Billy, My Z was an automatic originally. Like yours it had duel points. This is for emissions, one set is supposed to be active until the engine warms up. Then the thermo switch activates the other set of points. I like many of us, switched to the electronic ZX ignition and in my opinion this is the way to go. My engine runs smoother and better and the dist. is almost maintenance free. You still need to clean the dist cap every year or so. The one I have is from a '79ZX and I have been running it for going on 10 years. About keeping the Z original. Just toss the old dist into a box and stick it on a shelf. If your Z is all original otherwise , that is completely stock, paint, hub caps and so on. That is one thing . But if it is modified like a different color or what ever then keeping it all original is a non issue. Gary

Personally I would carefully use some 600 wet/dry with oil and Polish more than just sand the tube. But this needs to be smooth. Gary

Oiluj Thank you for the great post. The pictures really help. This kind of information is a big plus to the Web Site. GaryLOLLOL

I didn't think it mattered the number of posts, but the good information that is offered. We had a member some time back that just made one or two word comments on every thread just to have the numbers grow. He finally made it to everyone's ignore list. I haven't seen his name here for a while . Maybe he got the hint. Gary

This steel plate was an attempt to diminish vibration . Nissan did this at the factory when the Z was assembled. Gary

There is one group leaving from Delta Park Oregon at 4:30am and two others leaving from Vancouver Wash later. So there is many of us heading north for the event.

One of our club members Wife is 6'4'' and finds the 240z fits just fine. In fact they have two of them. They recently bought a Cad roadster because she finds it equally comfortable. but a hell of a lot more money.

You might do a search on this issue as it has been covered many times. Having said this, take a dollar bill and close it between the hatch and the rubber seal and see if it seals tight all the way around. If not, this is likely a source. Tail light gaskets is another good possibility, also look at the bottom area below the evap tank on the passenger side and below the antenna. Both places have openings either for drains or hoses. This is a start. Another thing, if the vent hose from the valve cover has been removed and a after market filter used instead , this is another source. Gary:beer:

Yellow ! you want to paint it Yellow? I painted my 240 yellow a long while back before it became popular. I chose Ford 2005 Cobra Screaming Yellow when it came out in 04. We shot it in 2 stage and used PPG paint. The yellow is vary close to Corvette yellow but not the same. I did a complete color change and you cannot find any of the original orange anywhere. Even if you lift the carpet. Question. After going through this much work , why are you taking the car to Maaco? I recommend shooting epoxy primer after you are done with the metal work. Then when finished with the sanding of the sanding primer , sealing the whole surface with epoxy primer in WHITE because you are shooting such a light color. The reason to seal it is to treat any bare metal that you may have exposed while sanding and to also have the car all one color . Gary

Preparation is the key when you use POR-15. Follow the instructions. Marine Clean, then the Metal Ready. Then brush on the POR. You need to flush the panel with water in between the M Clean and the M Ready. Once the panel is COMPLETELY dry , this is critical because moisture will cause the POR to foam and cure too fast, then brush on the POR paint. Metal Ready will leave residue when the moisture is gone, leave it . I used black gloss . Once POR is cured completely no paint will adhere to it properly. It will just peal off. If you must cover the POR with another color for some reason. You have three options. 1. apply the color of choice while the POR is still tacky. 2. wait until the POR is cured and sand it to dull and scratch the surface, not easy POR is a hard finish, then you can paint your color choice. 3. Apply Tie-Coat primer , a POR product, right over the cured POR . It is the only stuff that will stick without a lot of sanding. Then paint with any finish you like. I did all my floors and allot of other areas on my 240, and just stuck the sound deadening material right over the POR. I also prepped the under side and PORed it as well. I have had zero rusting on any metal so treated and it has been 8+ years and I drive my Z. It is true that the UV light will effect the finish of POR . In time it gets a slight hazy looking. I painted my gas tank with it at the same time I was doing the rest of the project and it is starting to be visible now, Incidentally the black glossy applied with a brush right from the can. Will flow out and look like you sprayed it. Do not buy any larger cans of paint than 1 QT, otherwise you will waist a lot of paint. It goes a long way. I painted the complete underside of both front fenders the inner finders the floors up front. Hatch area was rust free. I shot it into the rockers and cowl , doglegs and on the inside of the doors. Inside the rear fenders and inside the hatch, actually I poured some inside the hatch and tipped it around so it ran all through the hatch . The glass was out. I also did the gas tank, and front suspension and under the cabin floor. Total I used only 2Qts. The stuff is not cheap but it goes along way and it is the best I have ever used for this purpose. Been doing this stuff a lot of years. Gary:beer:

ZTharpy carbs . The best. RX-7 pump great I have run one of these for years. One big thing here. ALWAYS install a in line filter before the pump. This is the only pump I am using. On your return line. On the end of the fuel rail where it connects to the return. Check to make sure the tiny metered hole is clear. This metered hole maintains the pressure , or helps to. But if it is clogged the flow back to the tank is limited and the stationary gas will heat up and cause it to boil in the line. Have you checked the thermostat? if not take a cooking pot and half fill it with water use a can like a soup size and half fill it with water. Put the thermostat in the can and the can in the pot. use a candy thermometer in the with the thermostat and put it all on a stove and heat it . Watch the thermometer and the STAT and see at what temp it opens. This might surprise you. Give these things a look and get back to us with you find. My '73 with the stock radiator never over heated regardless of the high temp on the road. If these things are in good condition you should not have any trouble. So have a second look. Even with the alum rad. 50% anti freeze regardless where you live. Trust me. Gary

It is stainless steel. If the scratches aren't too deep you might be able to polish them out. They are just pushed on a metal strip on the roof. If you CAREFULLY start at one end you can lift the strip off. I have a drill press and I used a buffing wheel on it and polished my trim pieces with that. Using stick compound I bought at Sears. Gary

these may be old numbers, but they can cross check for you. JC Whitney - door weatherstrip 13SB2561U comes in 25' lengths When I bought it was $34.99 ea. You need 2 Window channel comes in 8" lengths need one for each door. $8.00 each 18B4877X Inner belt weather strip (fuzzy strip for the top of inner door) 19SB3480P for 6' enough for both doors. I paid $15.00 total. I am sure prices are higher now. I installed these parts 6+ Years ago and they are still top notch.

L-28 F-54 NA or Turbo. What head are you running? Is it milled ? I looked out of the window tonight and could not see clearly what you have. Sorry I couldn't help it , the devil made me do it ! Gary

When the cable fails , it shreds and most likely this is what happened . The cable is made up with a bunch of tiny wires . If one brakes it sticks our and will snag the sheath that it is in . It trys to stop but it is still being driven so when it it brakes free it springs and send the cable spinning . This causes what you saw on the spedo. A shop can make a new cable , take the old one with you for length and so they can duplicate the ends. Gary

Om my '73 240 the left side is different from the right. I got a price from my Nissan dealer of $75 and it was both inner and outer as a package. The only way that they sell them any more. I only needed the right side. Gary

This is a great project for your first off the blocks. Are you aware that a all original OEM restoration is going to cost $25,000. ++? And most likely after you already have the car. If you can do all the mechanical and body work and prep and paint your self, you can cut the cost to maybe $15K. Just having the paint done and a engine rebuilt will be about $7000. alone. If you want a great Z for local shows and to drive in mostly good weather. Not on salty roads in winter. That is a different matter. And the $10 to$11K will can be done. Again if you do most or all the work your self. As was already said , buy the most rust free car you can find and or afford. This will be money saved in the long run , because rust repair is not cheep. Sorry to be a negative post here but this is the reality . Gary

I installed Zedd findings floor pan in my Z about 8 years back with the holes and bought the plugs from Charley. I wasn't offered the pan another way. Personally I can see no reason to have the holes . I can always pull the carpet and towel out the water if something brakes . The carpet would need to be pulled to get to the plugs. There is zero problem having the rubber plugs either. I coated my floors with POR both inside and under the car. Gary

The way I handled this was to put a pressure switch at the oil sending unit that switches on at 5 psi. and off with the loss of oil presser below 5 psi. All that is needed is to buy a tee at your parts store and a pressure switch with two spade connectors. Cut the power wire going to the pump, green one, and run a wire to the pressure switch , then a wire from the pressure switch back to the other end of the cut green wire. Now when you turn the key to the on or start position, the pump will not run. The engine will start and run with the gas in the float bowls . When the engine starts you will activate the pump. If you crash or the engine stalls and the oil pressure drops the fuel will stop. This setup saved me from a likely fire . Total cost involved here is about $8.00. If for some reason you need to by-pass the p-switch. Just take a modern type fuse , pull the two wires from the p-switch and connect them to the fuse. Turn the key to run or start and the pump is active. Like if you run out of gas or something and you want to start the engine. I may have made it sound complicated , but this is a simple mod. Your oil sender connects to the tee along with the presser switch. I took my sender with me to the parts store so I could be sure of the thread sizes . Gary

Are you saying 242,000. miles? That is some serious miles if the engine hasn't been rebuilt. I wouldn't drive an engine with that sort of miles vary hard. 10w30 is recommended oil for these engines and should be just fine in your local for both winter and summer. I recommend that you pull the valve cover off and see if you can see something that is wrong. If the oil is so restricted that the Cam is suffering the lower end will be also. At the vary least you need to warm the engine before driving the car .

Have a look at post #4

It is not as simple as a tie rod end. there is a inner tie rod end that you must consider. It lies under the rubber boot on the passenger side out by the end of the steering rack. This could be the cause of the looseness. Nissan still has them the last time I checked for around $80.00 . The only way that they sell them is the whole assembly. Inner and outer tie rod. I tried to find a inner end at several different after market outlets with no Joy. Gary