beandip

It is not as simple as a tie rod end. there is a inner tie rod end that you must consider. It lies under the rubber boot on the passenger side out by the end of the steering rack. This could be the cause of the looseness. Nissan still has them the last time I checked for around $80.00 . The only way that they sell them is the whole assembly. Inner and outer tie rod. I tried to find a inner end at several different aftermarket outlets with no Joy. Gary

For me I have kept the my '73 mostly stock in appearance except for Paint color, Euro 240 z front bumper and early 240Z rear bumper. I have installed a '82ZX engine and a 5 speed tranny. I have added some convince lighting inside , foot wells and in the rear hatch area. I upgraded the Alternator to a Maxima unit and did the headlight harness up grade and H-4 90/100 lights. Small after market ''fog'' lights. Euro Stage 1 springs and KYB struts and lowered the car about 2'' overall. I did install a 280Z Radiator, as well as a ZX ignition. So overall the looks of the Z is mostly original to a non Z person. In my mind my Z is far better than OEM, in that I drive my Z often but not daily . 3 to 4 K a year. I do all my own work on my Z. I have had help from my friends . Escanlon & Steve F. Roger W. also. Gary

Has anyone done a search on the window felt? I posted the part numbers from JC Whitney at least 6 years back the first time and again several times since. They have the felt for the door glass and the fuzzy strip for the inside. They also have the rubber gasket for the door seal that works well for a 240Z. All are at bargain prices. Gary:cool:

If your leak is coming from the glass to rubber seal, there is a liquid silicone available for just that problem. It comes in a tooth paste tube size. If your gasket is still soft. The glass shop can inject a sealent under the rubber to paint area. If the gasket is old .... not likely. As for the defroster lines they can be repaired and there are kits for doing this. So far I haven't seen one of these used to my satisfaction. I don't have the patience and just disconnected mine and used the light on the console for a indicator showing my fog lights are on.

Andrew, welcome to the fray. First off on your z witch is vary similar to my late '73. First off , struts. I went with KYB G-2 struts. They are firmer than OEM and give a great ride and also good handling. My opinion. I did opt for the Euro stage 1 springs that are somewhat stiffer. No longer available. Along with the above , I did lower the car by removing coils from the springs. I know you said no cutting, but by removing 1 1/2 coils from the front and one from the rears you will find the over handling is superior, from stock. This is with what you already have for springs. I kept the stock rubber bushings for two reasons. 1. noise the Polly transfer the road noise and gear noise to the cabin. 2. rubber doesn't squeak like the Polly and are not harsh in transferring vibration . If you use SUs instead of the flat top carbs you will find that with not a great amount of money you will be vary happy with your Z. Gary

The car looks straight at least from the pictures. I like what someone earlier said would want both pictures of the battery area and floors, and have some Z driver that lives in the area have a look and report back to me. Before I sent and money. I have done that for buyers that were looking at Z in my area. Saved them round trip air fair, a couple of times. One thing the driver seat bottom, the foam in the seat bottom is shot , likely from the summer heat and the passenger seat is vary likely the same way. The dash cracks look like more than a minor repair. But overall $4K I think looks like a good starting figure. Especially for a low mileage Z. My 2 cts. Gary

Actually the front bumper is a 260 bumper. But from a early 260. If you notice the license plate is not centered like on a 240Z.

there is a Z club in your back yard. North West Z you might have look at out web site at northwestz.org

San Diego to Lake E is not all that far , if my memory serves me. That is if you are serious about the Z. Isn't Elsinore not far from Paris Ca. ? The main thing is RUST, the rest of the stuff is easily fixed if there is a problem. If it is a fresh paint job , then look VARY close for rust repair. Gary

If someone has removed the sleeve that is supposed to be inside the perch of the M bar. Just buy a short length of exhaust pipe the proper diameter and cut it to length then cut it from end to end on one side , so it can collapse or spread as the case may be. Then the Polly bushing should be tight inside the M bar. What Arne and Zs said is right on.

the line coming form the rear of the car on the driver's side is the fresh air return to the gas tank. One of the lines from the diverter is supposed to connect to a small port on the back side of your air cleaner. the other was supposed to go to the crank case breather. The idea from Nissan is when expansion occurs in the gas tank and because the system is supposed to be closed . The fumes were to be burned by the engine. The one going to the air cleaner is for fresh air to the tank. That fitting mounted on the inner fender is a diverter. and has a one way valve inside that will open under pressure from the gas tank and dispose of the fumes. Hope this helps you to understand what is what. I removed all the evaporation tank and some of the vent lines in the back of the Z and vented the tank to the fill vent. Kept the little air supply line. I did this years ago and the info should be in the archives. All the best , and welcome to the Web Site, Gary:beer: Also , nun of these lines will effect the brakes in any way.

''You'll wonder where the yellow went'' Ha you may not be old enough to remember that slogan. Yellow race cars rock. Gary

Miker you do realize that these engines are cold blooded and need to have a rich mixture to run until at normal temp or close to it. Also SUs do not have accelerator pumps so pumping on the gas peddle does nothing . If fact it may cause the engine to be harder to start. Gary

Before you change the electric pump. If the PO installed the electric correctly there should be a in line fuel filter between the tank and the electric pump. Replace that filter and the one mounted on the inner fender up by the front of the engine bay. If this does not cure your problem then a pump could be in order. Make vary sure there are no small cracks in the rubber hoses. And the clamps are tight and not allowing any air to enter the line or gas to leak. Running both fuel pumps is no problem if the mechanical is not leaking. I have been running RX-7 fuel pump for 8 years and they are great. $15.00 at the u-pull-it . you just need to be sure it is NOT a fuel injected pump. I use only the electric. Gary

you said that it makes a noise by the link and not the relay by the foot well on the passenger side? The link is down by the starter, in fact it connects the starter to the wiring harness. If you are hearing noise in that location is sounds to me that you have a bad connection there. Check closely the small wire that connects to the solenoid spade connector. This may sound like a funny question , but do the headlight work ok? and have you checked the fuses with a multimeter? Don't just rely how they look. Believe me I know. Especially the 3rd fuse up from the bottom on the driver side. I hope this is not the case , but I have had two instances where a factory splice that is buried in the harness has failed. Check these things and if that doesn't fix the problem, send me a PM Gary

you said that it makes a noise by the link and not the relay by the foot well on the passenger side? The link is down by the starter, in fact it connects the starter to the wiring harness. If you are hearing noise in that location is sounds to me that you have a bad connection there. Check closely the small wire that connects to the solenoid spade connector. This may sound like a funny question , but do the headlight work ok? and have you checked the fuses with a multimeter? Don't just rely how they look. Believe me I know. Especially the 3rd fuse up from the bottom on the driver side. I hope this is not the case , but I have had two instances where a factory splice that is buried in the harness has failed. Check these things and if that doesn't fix the problem, send me a PM Gary

I did the same as you. If you have any left over , I recommend that you use it on the hatch area and the flat surface in back of the seats. This area acts like a sound board with the road noise. I bought some insulation that JC Whitney sells for thermal/noise protection for under the hood. It is about 3/8'' thick and I added it over the whole hatch and floor pan area right under the carpet. One more thing , use your fat mat and apply it to the BACK side of the plastic panels just make sure that where the panel contacts the body there is no extra stuff. Apply the mat on the inside surface of the doors , the same for the rear fenders. It make a huge difference. I didn't put any on the roof. The head liner has a thick foam pad that dampens the sound by it's self. I was afraid also that it may come loose. Gary been there done that!

Andy is right , but one more thing . If he Master is shot it will leak back into the vacuum booster . The brake fluid will damage the diaphragm of the booster, so if you loosen the master and it is wet on the firewall side , don't wait replace the master. Vacuum boosters are SPENDY. Gary

You can just check the bearing race and it should be shinny with no wear marks. If this is so you can just lube them. Personally I wouldn't because it is such a pain in the butt to go back later do it. I use grease for wheel bearings meant for disk brake applications. torque the stub axel nut to 200ft lbs, I just mount the hub on one of your wheels and have one person sit on the tire and the other work the torque wrench. Be sure to use a punch and stake the nut to the flat space on the stub Axel. Gary

I didn't read the whole thread , but if you have vibration in the drive shaft because of a bad u-joint. If you continue to drive he car you will damage the tail shaft of your trans. or at least the seal. I use a maillot and a old socket like was described earlier. Be sure to lube the u-joint . If it has a fitting you will find that they are empty, The grease you see in the cups is there to hold the needle bearings in place. If you don't grease them they will fail in short order. My Spicers took 5 pumps to fill them.

Well I installed a R-200 in my '73 240 I used the same 240 half shafts. I did use the R-200 mustache bar , the same 240z drive shaft. I did end up going back to the 180 because of a better gear ratio. All worked great.

Well , first off you have a fuel injected engine in a car that is set up for Carbs. Were you going to add SUs ? If so then the engine basic is the same. Use the ignition from the earlier engine. For now.

torker, I think you are going to find that there is not much parallel between a L-6 and a Chev. V-8. As for your cold bloodiness. It's simply the nature of the beast. Especially this time of year. The advise to use NGK plugs was vary good advise. For some reason the others just don't work as well. I have tried believe me. Gary

It helps greatly to mark the center of the new headliner at the front edge. Once you are in the car and holding the loose liner you will be glad to see your mark . do the same at the rear edge. When you spray the adhesive don't saturate the foam , follow the directions on the can. when you press the liner in place avoid crushing the foam against the roof. If you accidentally have added too much adhesive the foam cells will stick together and you will have dimples . Like was stated two people is a big help in centering and aligning the new liner. Gary

Tom welcome to our little spot of heaven. I have been down the road you are traveling and am now enjoying the fruits of my labor. I did the whole restore my self at home in my garage. So have come across most things related. Many of us have done the same thing here so feel free to ask any question you may have. On the flip side , you can search the archives and you may find the info you seek there. If not just ask, either with a thread or a PM to whom ever you want to contact. All the best , Gary