beandip

Just lower the radiator a inch. All you need to do is elongate the mounting holes or drill new ones and set the radiator lower. I mounted a 280Z unit in my 240 and it is 2'' longer. I just set it low enough to clear the hood and all is well. Gary

If you use the gas line from your parts store, it is too stiff and will cause the nozzle to bind and stick . When you use the choke to start when the engine is cold, lower than operating temp, the nozzle is drawn down. When you no longer need the choke to richen the fuel mixture and you push the lever forward , this is when the nozzle will stick. The same thing happens when the little hose becomes brittle and stiff from the heat on the exhaust manifold. Your Nissan dealer might have the correct hose , but for sure ZTherapy will. DO NOT USE VACUUM HOSE! It is not gas rated and will fail . Gary

If you use the gas line from your parts store, it is too stiff and will cause the nozzle to bind and stick . When you use the choke to start when the engine is cold, lower than operating temp, the nozzle is drawn down. When you no longer need the choke to richen the fuel mixture and you push the lever forward , this is when the nozzle will stick. The same thing happens when the little hose becomes brittle and stiff from the heat on the exhaust manifold. Your Nissan dealer might have the correct hose , but for sure ZTherapy will. DO NOT USE VACUUM HOSE! It is not gas rated and will fail . Gary

I am running a P-79 that has been milled .030 this results with 9.5 to 1 . No Cam tower shims needed . Of course you can take more . I can run regular but run mid grade gas. the P-79 will flow as well as the P-90 for a street driven car. Full out track car P-90 as the story goes.

Sounds like the nuts are rounded as you said. Liquid wrench is a poor substitute for Kroil or PB Blaster. Do you have a Drummel or have access to one? You may find that you will have to split the nuts . Before you do this though, look into your socket and count if it is a 12 or 6 point socket. If it is a 12, this may be part of your problem if the nut is rounded off some. A 6 point will capture the flats on the nut better and is less likely to slip. Gary d

Johnnyp, Since you are new to this stuff. Diseazd has the best advise here. Take it to a Shop and have them remove the broken bolts and for that matter the rest of the ones holding the manifolds in place. Replace them with studs to avoid this problem in the future. Kroil and Anti seize is something that we all should be using when dealing with this stuff. In trying to remove the broken pieces , especially with a ''ezy-out'' you are likely make things a whole lot worse. Worse case would be replacing the entire head. Drilling out parts like this is not a easy endeavor. The shop will likely just weld a bolt to the broken bit with a tig welder and back out the part. And no you cannot weld with a propane torch. Any torch will apply too much heat to the aluminum head. Mig or Tig is the way to go. Gary

I had poly and removed them. This all depends on the use of the Z . I found that poly transmitted gear and road noise into the cabin. I switched back to the OEM rubber and it eliminated about 40% of the combined noise. I didn't notice any difference in performance.

As lonetreesteve stated , I had my rear bumper plated by Denver Bumper. I couldn't be more pleased. They did a super job. In fact one of the mounting bolts was broken off and I cut and drilled out the piece before I shipped all three pieces. I figured I would deal with it when it was returned. They welded in a new bolt , did the repair of dents and all . No extra charge. I recommend them highly. They are pleasant to work with and the turn around was amazing. Including shipping time 12 days total. It took 5 days from me to them. I think they had the bumper 3days! $250.00 to plate all three parts. Gary

You got it! Never use copper for fuel/gas line . Like to replace the old gas line in the tranny tunnel. Or in the engine bay. Vibration will cause it to crack and split. This is different. The vent adapter is 1/2 inch pipe fittings that will be carrying fumes prim-early. Ha ha I am not ready for the old folks home but close. Thank you vary much. Ha ha Fuel oil to heat homes have used copper lines for many years and the fuel has just as much sulfur in it. My house was built in 1926 and still uses copper for the heating oil. Same stuff used in our trucks but with die added.

I use Spicier u joints. as for the evap tank. I removed mine for the same reasons you are describing 9 years ago. If you want to remove the tank . First do a search and if you need any further info send me a PM. Gary

remove your electric pump and see if it is clogged with debris, add a inline filter between the tank and the pump. Basic stuff here. You only need 3 to 4 psi pressure to supply your engine. the carbs won't tolerate more than 5 psi. If you can find a RX-7 that is carberated it has a great fuel pump that will supply even a stroker with triples. $15.00 at the bone yard. Been running one going on 9 years. Gary

Just go to Napa and buy some fuel/gasoline rated 5/8'' hose. I made a 180*adapter out of 1/2 copper fittings from the hardware store. That was 7+ years ago when I removed the evap tank and all the related hoses. Information is available if you do a search you will find it. Gary

I looked at other Insurance Companies and found that Hagerty was the vary best fit for me. True that there are some restrictions. Kept in a secure garage is one and not daily driver or grocery getter. I drive my Z from 3 to 4k miles a year. I am a member of a active Z club and I drive my car to events and cruises, mostly monthly . My car is pleasure driven and not used ever to commute to work. I did add 150 mile towing to my coverage. Guarantied to be flat bed towing. My Z is covered with a agreed upon value policy for $15,000. Insurance only $120.00 a year. + towing that incidently the towing covers my other cars even though they are not insured by Hagerty. Give them a call. I don't know if there differences in where you live that effect premium costs. Gary

It all boils down to money and how fast you want to go, or spend. I agree with what has been offered so far. HP gain you will find is with the head work done. Which includes cam and aspiration. It's all a balancing act . Flame thrower ignition , needs fuel and head work, cam , and so on . A complete package. What do you expect for the car. Street , track what?

you can wire brush it or have it sand blasted. To keep it from rusting shoot it with 1500* rated paint. I used rattle can black with this rateing. applied about 5 coats over a few days. Mine was on headers. That was 2004 and it still looks good. Gary

I do agree, it depends on what you want the Z for. Drag racing go with the 3.90s or 4.11s but if you want a great street driver I would keep the 3.54s I have a automatic which has the same ratio as the 4 speed in top gear. I was running 3.90s and the car off the line was strong. But now I have gone back to 3.54 and the Z is now a pleasure to drive. I don't have my Z for drag racing or track use. I belong to a Z Club and we cruise all over he west coast with our twisting hwy and mountains. Spirited driving for sure and the gearing is great now. So it depends on what you expect from your Z. I say keep the 3.54s give them a try and see what you think for your kind of driving. You can always change later. Gary

Dynomax Turbo . I bought mine from Summit Racing. they are not too much money , but most of all have a great sound and free flowing. Not too loud. My Z sounds like a E-Jag. Much depends on the size of the exhaust pipe size. I am running a 21/2'' which is louder . So if you have anything like a 2'' or so you wont have any trouble. I looked and listened to Magnaflow and Flowmaster , they have a raspy sound so if this is what you are after there you go... Gary

Why revive this old thread? I just went to Home Depot bought some cable used the same old cable '' tube/case'' after cleaning it and the springs for the ends and for less than $10.00 I have been using it for 7 years. Just allow for stretching because the cable will stretch some so don't make it too long. I used 1/8'' plastic coated cable. I suggest that you adjust the linkage back down so you can tighten it in the future . I didn't and had to do it later and cut the cable shorter. I forget the strength of the cable but it is way more than needed. Gary

David , welcome to the group. as Enigma said there is a ton of information on tap here. Take a little time and use the search, with a topic or two and you will see. Please ask any questions you may have. Our group is all over the US mostly but there are members all over the world. I am assuming you are around my age since you have a grandson that is looking to drive. How we can access everywhere and contact fellow addicted Z drivers is amazing. Just give us a chance . Welcome aboard. Gary

I was the one Escanlon referred to. My door glass was heavily with water stains . I tried even ground sapphire powder and made it into a paste, still no joy. At Blue Lake car show , one of our NWZ car club members that sells Adam products tried some swirl remover on the Tee tops on another car and it cleaned it. I bought a bottle on the spot and in about 15min. my window was clear. I just used my finger and a old tee shirt . I had even bought a ''new'' window because nothing I tried worked. I tried everything I could think of. I used my buffer with several different products. From my experience the Adams products are the vary best I have tried. I have used other stuff that they make and I have never found a better product. I sound like a commercial but I have no dog in this fight. even the car wash soap is by far and above better than any other I have used. My lowly ''gunk yard dog'' has taken sever first and second awards since I have used there stuff. It wont remove scratches like from a wiper or louvers on the rear hatch that have rubbed against the glass. It cannot work miracles . Gary

For those of us out west , I just received my rear bumper back from the plater. Denver Bumper Works Inc. There prices are fair and the work is first rate. I had my rear bumper on my 240Z done and couldn't ask for a better job. The turn around time is unbelievable. I rate them 1-A. I shipped my bumper from Portland Oregon to them via FED-X They received it and sent it back in 4 days!! $250.00 + shipping for all three parts. There are others here on the web site that have used them as well. When a quality merchant does good work for a fair price . Well it is good to give them our business. Otherwise we will only have the less quality to deal with. Gary

Just one more thing. When you lift the vacuum piston in the carb, by reaching in the intake with your finger and lifting the piston up. When you let it go does it drop freely with a clunk when it reaches bottom? If it does not then the needle to nozzle is out of alignment. Or the needle is bent. On a 3 screw, the adjustment for alignment is done by moving the dome one way or another. There is supposed to be cone shaped plastic or epoxy alignment ''pins'' on the body of the carb that fit into the dome and align it. These were done at the time of assembly at the point of manufacture. If these are missing then you will need to align things . On Four screw carbs the nozzles are adjustable.

First off where is no where?? If you have checked that you have all or any vacuum lines connected correctly. SUs ?? Then looking down from the top the mixture /nozzle adjustment under the carb is turned from the counter clockwise stop. Clockwise 2 1/2 turns. The engine should fire and run reasonably. The air mixture must be balanced with the proper tool. Set the timing at around 6* BFTDC to start. You haven't stated said what engine or ignition or what carbs you are working with. I looked out the window and couldn't tell from here. More info would help.

I agree you must be running 3.90s. I bought a R-200 that was supposed to be 3.70 and experienced about the same thing you are. When I pulled the diff and removed the cover it turned out the diff was a 3.90. Went super off the line but suffered at the top end. I found a diff with a set of 3.54s out of a automatic Z . Now I have the best of both worlds.

try Hi bred Z see what they have going. Gary