beandip

dcruz, I replaced my floor pan in my 240Z and used the pans form Zedd findings. Charley Osborne makes them. I understand that there is someone else using his name but makes a inferior product. Just be aware. Zedd's are a first rate pan and it comes with the rail that is under the middle of the floor from the firewall to about the seat support. They take vary little fitting , just wait until you receive the pans before you do any cutting. This way you will see how high the lip extends. I took my car , after I fitted the pans in place , using self tapping sheet metal screws, to a certified welder. He tig welded the pan in place and when he came to a screw he removed it and filled the hole. First rate job and it cost me $350.00. Plus the pan. I had cleaned everything prior to installing the pan so he didn't have to do this part. Saves you a lot of money and his time. One thing you must remember trying to do some of these thing on the cheap. The floor is a major part of the ''frame'' on a unibody car like a Z. Since there is no real frame. So if you do this project wrong and with too thin of sheet metal you are weakening the structure of the whole car. It will show later when the seams on the roof separate or crack and so on. My welder tried using MIG to weld the metal and went to his TIG because he had some trouble burning through the thin metal. He is a professional welder. My 2cts. Gary

Chris, I have been using the same ignition for 11 years and swear by them. First off are you using NGK plugs? Try a set if them BPR6ES. I have a question about the ignition wiring. This could be the problem. Try removing the wire from a troubled plug and use that wire on one that is burning cleanly. Of course I am saying to remove the wire and installing it on the different position on the cap also. I clarify because some readers would just switch at the plug only. See how this works . If the problem changes from one plug to another then replace the plug wires. With the ignition that you are using the plugs should last for 20K easily. Set them at .035" What is the timing set at? I am running at 16* BTDC but if you do this, do it after clearing up the present situation. All the best, Gary. Portland Or.

John B. is right on. Auto light make good sinkers for fishing, as far as a Z application. For some unknown reason NGK are the plugs work in these engines. I have had nothing but success with them. For a 240 engine BPR6ES. Now I am running a 280ZX engine and using BPR6EY-11 and again I will not use any other brand. I was told this 11 years ago when my 240Z ran like crap. I switched from the Champions and all cleared up. And they were new plugs . :-[ Don't waist your bucks on the ''special'' wopper dopper plugs . Gary

Welcome to the Site . You will find that there are a number of Z drivers here in Or. I live a distance from you but feel free to have a look at my Z Club's Web Site northwestz.org Maybe we can help you source parts or information in the future. We have about 60 members at present. Z driver of all the years of Zs. I think you will love the drive , enjoy. Gary

If you like the Rewinds , I would go for those in a 16''. You will find that you have a selection of tires for this size wheel. Especially if you want a performance tire. Gary

On your Z the pump will run until you switch the key to the off position. This includes if you ever crash and or end up on the roof!! I installed a pressure switch into the circuit, so the electric power is disconnected if the oil pressure drops below 5 or 7 psi. This safe guards both the engine in the event of a oil pump failure, or if I have a accident and cannot get to my key to turn things off. It is a simple mod. Your local Parts store has the pressure switches and all you need to do in buy a Tee and install the Tee into the engine block where the oil sender is attached. Mount the sending unit on the Tee and the pressure switch on it also. Buy a pressure switch that has two male spade connectors and switches at 5 or 7 psi. Just fab. two wires that run from this switch back to the green wire that comes from the fuel pump. This is your hot wire , and it is located above the foot well on the passenger side of the car close to the center console. Now when you start the engine, it will start and run on the gas in the carbs and as soon as it has oil pressure the fuel pump will run. DON'T BLOCK the return line. It is there , for one thing, to keep the flow of gas in the fuel rail , thus keeping it cool in the summer heat. Otherwise you will have gas boiling in the rail causing ''vapor lock''. I personally do not like the pulsating fuel pumps because they rattle and make noise. I use electric fuel pumps from RX-7s that are NOT injected. They are whisper quiet and pump just under 5 psi. They will supply S Us ,Tipples or 4 barrels. I have picked up several at the bone yards for $15.00 ea. for my friends. I keep one for a spare . I have used them for almost 10 years. Gary

I did the same install 8 years ago in my '73 and am still using the original 240 tach. You will need the bottom part that actually bolts to the block that the dist bolts on to. If you try and use the 240 part you will have problems setting the timing. The two parts look alike but are not. I have installed several of these in 240Zs . All the best, Gary

Manny when you drained the fluid was there much metal filings on the drain plug magnet? Is there much play when you manually move the car back and forth? If you lift the rear of the car and support in on stands and start the engine and put it is first gear at idle . Can you hear the noise . BE SURE YOU BLOCK THE FRONT WHEELS. And DON'T rev the engine in gear, just let the engine idle. You don't want to launch your car off the stands. If the diff is bad locate another rather than having your rebuilt. If your Z is a manual car it has 3.36 to 1 gearing if an automatic car then 3.54s. Gary

Phred, WOW, I haven't seen a post from you in a vary long time. Glad to see you are still around here. Gary

For this engine I recommend NGK by all means. And this number. BPR6ES with a stock ignition set them at .035". I have found NGK plugs work the vary best. The number that I gave you are not all that expensive either. Don't waist any money on those mulitple electrode offerings. Prices vary from store to store but just go to your local parts store . I paid $10.25 for my last set. I bought a set of Taylor plug wires but I am now running a ZX ignition. Gary One more thing, are the carbs flat tops or round. SUs?

I was born and raised in shaky town 45 years but moved to smog free Portland area in '84. Gary

If you can come by a good 280ZX engine , go that route. This is what I did and have been vary happy with the results. An '82ZX, I milled the head .030 giving 9.5 to one. The non turbo motors have flat top pistons. I dumped the injection and kept my SUs . I have a Erson midrange street cam. The overall performance is great plus I am getting right at 30 mpg on the Hwy. I also installed a 5 speed. I run mid range gas and could likely run regrlar if I retarded the timing. These blocks are amazing and will go 250k easily and not need to be bored. So If you do this most likely all you will need to do is have the crank checked and maybe polished , hone the cylinders and new rings and have the head milled and valves ground.

The resister is mounted just below the coil. It is about 2 1/2'' long and 1/2'' wide. A wire connected at each end and one going to the coil. With the ignition switch turned to the run position , one end should read 12 volts and the other about 8. So if you have power there , and the coil is good. You have looked at the points and they look good, right? Then there is a small silver object about a 1/2'' in diameter with a wire coming out of one end and the wire connects to the points. This is the condenser, they rarely fail , but if they do. No spark. A condenser couldn't cost more than a couple of bucks. It's function is to store high voltage and when told by the points it discharges and the electrical charge goes to the spark plugs. So follow what I just posted from the beginning. Providing you have power to the resister. Gary P S The thing with introducing a new system into this is , if you do and still have no joy. Then you have just complicated the whole scenario.

The last couple I found in the u pull it were $15.00 I keep one for a spare and shared the others with club members. to pull one from the car. All you need is a 10mm wrench and a pocket knife. It is just in front of the rear end on the driver's side.

Jan, what you have is a easy fix. That is if you want to permanently treat the rust. As was stated POR 15, however and this is a must. first wire brush the rusted area then use Marine Clean. This and Metal Ready , both are products made by POR. Follow the directions given on the packaging . If you cut corners all bets are off. If you follow directions , the rust will be sealed forever . If you wish to topcoat with a color like your interior, apply the paint while the POR paint is still tacky. It is amazing stuff and hard as porcelain so if you wait for the topcoat color and the POR cures it is a difficult job to sand and if you don't the topcoat will just peal off. I used POR extensively on my 240 8+ years ago and I haven't seen any rust on any treated areas yet. And I live in Oregon and sometimes it rains here like 50'' a year. Gary

HapG, welcome. Just wanted to let you know that there are a bunch of us Z drivers in your area. I live in Beaverton. There are members of the Club I belong to in Salem also. Please feel welcome to come to one of our meetings. NorthWest Z is a great group of people. You are going to like the ''new engine''. I also did a complete re do on my 240Z and installed a 280ZX and am vary pleased with the results. Gary

To make this work use the mount from the ZX that bolts to the block and your Dist connects to. You don't need any special coil just the one for a ZX. I have made this mod 9 years ago and you are on the right track. You see you don't use the resister any more. You feed 12 volts to the coil. I have a good friend that owns a Z shop and has been building these cars for 30+ years. He told me that the super coils will fry the module [ 12-80] on the side of the dist. I ran this same Dist on my L-24 and it was a good mod. Now I am running the same Dist on the ZX engine in my same 240Z. If you use the 240 mount you won't be able to time your engine properly. By the way if you find a Maxama with a in line engine the Dist and mount is what you need . Check the Bone yards. I have a couple of the things but all my stuff is packed . We are moving, sorry. Gary

Another thought, buy a can of starter fluid and spray some into the intake of the air filter. Give it a 5 count shot, and try to start the engine. If it shows any signs of life then look to the fuel system. I don't recommend spraying it directly into the carbs, just into the air box intake. Gary

I don't know why you came to the conclusion the coil is bad, since you stated that you were driving the car when you parked it. For starters check if you are getting any spark at the plugs. If you have spark there then look to fuel. Disconnect one of the rubber supply lines going to a Carburetor and since you have a '73 you have a electric fuel pump, or should. Just put the end of the hose into a container and turn on the key to the ON position for a count of 3 or 4. Then check to see if you have gas in the container. If not then either the pump is no longer working or missing or the small in line filter is plugged. The filter I am speaking of, is back next to the gas tank and between it and the fuel pump there. You may still have the flat top carburetors being the Z is a '73. I doubt that this is your problem here, but be thinking of replacing them with a set of pre73 S Us in the near future . So check for spark first, no spark at the plugs then find out why not. If no gas flow, then there is your problem, do change the two filters though in any case. They are cheep and replacing them is a routine maintenance thing anyway. SPARK if none , first thing then check inside the distributer . Remove the cap and check the points to see if they are burned and or badly pitted. If your Z is a automatic you have two sets of points in there. Check them both. Do what I have suggested and if you cannot figure out why the engine wont run . Send me a PM and I will help you further. Gary

You can completely do away with the collection tank. Do a search on this topic . I pulled my evap tank 8 years ago and have not had a problem since. One thing to check is the large filler hose. If it is leaking you will get gasoline fumes in the cabin. Gary

This is a great show, drawing people in form Idaho and Washington, as well as from Cal. Our weather is going to be stellar and so are the cars. So come and join us and celebrate our super Z car.

We are having our annual Show N Shine on This Saturday August 28th. Again this year we are having it at Forged Performance. Located at 867 NW Corporate Drive in Troutdale, Oregon. From 10am - 3pm. Forged Performance, is offering there Dyno at a discounted price to all entered cars. Also free B-B-Q for all attendees. Check our Website for more details . Registration is $20.00 per car day of the show. WWW.northwestz.org It's going to be a great time with some great cars. Gary, (beandip) Club Secretary

What ever floats your boat. If you just install a RX-7 pump you don't need a regulator. They will supply all the fuel you ever need for your carbs. Since you said that you were going to cover the hole in the head you must talking of a 240z. I have been running a RX-7 pump for 8 years. We even tried one on a set of triple Webbers on a vary built 280 engine and it supplied them just fine. $15.00 at the U-pull- it. Just use one from a carbed RX NOT a injected one. The fuel rail functions to supply cool fuel to the carbs by recirculating the excess fuel back to the gas tank , thus cooling the rail. You might think of a method of stopping the gas flow in the event of a accident and you cannot turn off the key! An a inertia switch to cut the power if you are in a wreck is one option. I installed a simple pressure switch that will cut power if my oil pressure drops below 7 PSI.

First check the bulbs that are not working with a meeter to see they are indeed good. Then check the light socket with the meeter for voltage and continuity on the ground. If no joy check the connector for corrosion . Still no Joy then go to the combo switch. If the combo switch is not working , I recommend contacting David Irwin , He rebuilds them for a nominal fee. Replacing the combo switch can be a spendy matter . I have seen them sell for $200.00+ on ebay.

One thing you should consider when removing the water flowing through the intake manifold. And in some cases the 3 screws. Last year NorthWest Z had our Car Show-N-Shine at Forged Performance. They gave all cars entered in the show a killer deal on there Dyno. I ran my Z and had no problems , I have retained the water flow. Two of the other 240s that followed me both had detonation problems after the first pull and had to abort. I did all three pulls no problem. The coolant flowing through the intake is a cooling agent not just a heating agent for cold weather. Just think about the heat coming off the headers right under the intake manifold. My 2cts Gary