beandip

One thing to remember. Some engines have the timing mark set on the driver side and some on the passenger side. It you find a dampener that has the pointer on a different side form you engine , be sure to get the pointer that matches that pulley. Gary

Yes a bad ground could cause the same problem. Check the connections at the battery. If the cable connections are dirty or corroded this can cause a bad connection and when a load is applied there is not enough voltage to power the starter. If a cable is split or you find that it is corroded. Replace the cable. It could also be just a solenoid , the small cylinder attached to the starter. This is the thing that when activated puts the starter in gear and at the same time powers the starter motor. If the connection inside this thing becomes worn enough that it only partly connects the power the starter motor cannot run. Therefore spin the engine. If all this stuff is good then the ignition switch could be the problem. It is located at the end of the switch that you put the key into. It can be separated from the rest of the switch and just it can be replaced instead of the whole switch. This way you can keep the original key. I put my starter on a relay so that the switch only has to power the relay and the switch will live forever and the starter gets full power from the relay. Gary

Gary, if you have a Harbor Freight in town find a Campbell Hausfeld Detail Spray Gun. It will give up to a 9'' pattern. When I was restoring my Z , I used mine to shoot all of the engine bay with Tie Coat primer to cover the repairs and POR. You will find that for small jobs like the valance it is just right. I have had mine for several years now but I think that they are still available for around $10 to 15.00. The item #is DH5500 I think you can order one on line. Mary Christmas Gary

yours is different

Ron yours is the same as mine. the loop part should be held in place by the insulated block held down with a nut. A friend of mine needed a 280 tach and I had one so we traded. This is now my spare for my '73

Enrique, this is the same tach that I have that I told you of, yellow/red and black wires and a all white that makes a loop. It has the same square connector with four pins.

Dave's right both are slip fits. Gary

Phil, welcome to the group. Having owned your Z for that many years , there is no point in asking if you love the Z. Ha ha. Great to have you as a member. Gary

Like Dave said. Jack up the car, put it in gear, hold the half shaft firmly and try and rotate the tire. Watch were the play is coming from. If there is ANY play in the u-joints replace them. If the play is from the flange to/wheel then the splines in the stub Axel is bad. There should be zero play from the diff to the wheel. It is just a matter of locating where the play is . Gary

to check if the brake booster is bad, just let the engine idle and step on the brake. If the idle changes , you either have a bad vacuum line or the booster is bad. Gary

First off , are we dealing with a stock L-24? Secondly with a original dist and ignition? If both are true set the timing at 10*BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged, and at normal RPM 650 to 700. Use 20w oil in the SUs . Believe me the oil does make a difference . No 20w use 10w/30. If you still have the same problems, and you are using NGK plugs, then look to the carbs and set the air balance , then the fuel mixture. Do a search here on the site . there is ample info on this. When using your timing light , pay attention to how steady the line appears . If it is bouncing and erratic , most likely the bushing are shot in the Dist. Check this stuff and get back to us. DON'T start throwing parts and money at the problem. Sounds , at this point to be adjustment and tuning. Gary

If you are going to drive north on I-5 from LA the only place you might have any snow or Ice problems is North of lake Shasta. The passes can generate lots of snow . If you take the coast route it may be wet but no snow or ice. You can take in the Red Woods witch are amazing. I seem to remember that you wanted to end up somewhere along the coast anyway. Since you are dropping down south from the Grand Canyon I doubt you will have any further weather problems that will amount to anything. All the best. Gary

KYB-G2s , The bump stops , energy suspension . Nissan is selling them now since they no longer have the OEM rubber. These are polly but soft and are what I used on all four corners. I did lower my 240 and used the KYBs so it will work fine . But there is a limit on how far you can drop the Z. If you are looking for origional hight and you don't mind the Z higher slightly then don't concern your self with this. I removed some from the springs . But that is another thread. Do a search there are several posts on this issue when Arne and I were going through this. Gary

Franke, keep an eye on the weather. At least here in Oregon we are in for a storm and lots of snow in the mountains. Haven't heard about the eastern part of the state . You are not close to us yet but this is the first big storm of our season . Local ski area are looking to 2' to 3' feet at the pass levels over the weekend. For you much depends on what happens east , this is what I am trying to warn you of. If you have family or friends to stay with... , just keep an eye on the storms. This one is only supposed to last a week. Gary

The cross member is not removable first off, and I know on a 240Z the engine must be lifted . On the L-6 the oil pickup hangs down and you cannot clear the pan. In my experience the pan gaskets fail from over tightening the bolts . This dents the pan inward and crushes the gasket causing a leak. If you are experiencing a leaky pan gasket you might just check if one or more of the bolts are loose. You just might luck out. If the damage is already done you have nothing to loose. When you have the pan off straighten the metal that is the surface that seals so it is flat. Also if you use silicone , which I would not do, to seal the gasket. Be vary careful not to use excess . It will squish out and can brake off in the pan and can clog oil passages. Gary

Frank, be aware that it is also snowing in eastern Oregon, along hwy 84. I like others have said have not driven my 240 in the snow. Other than around the block for kicks. She doesn't like the stuff. I do have a set of cable chains for my other car and it has the same size tires. You might pick up a set , just in case. Here in Oregon you are required to carry them and use them when they say that they are required. You will get a hefty fine without them. Remember you will be in the mountains and it can get Icy. If you have good tires you will do fine. Just don't get in a hurry in the white stuff. Gary

Does your 240Z need to pass emission testing? And if so what is the criteria that they use ? I have a 82 ZX engine in my 240Z with zero emissions equipment and running SU carbs , no cat or anything. I am not required to test for emissions but I took it to the State testing any way, and it passed. My Z is a '73. Gary

Welcome good to have you aboard. Enjoy your new toy and hold your self back from tearing it apart in a effort to ''improve'' the performance. Drive the car a while and get used to it . Repair what needs to be done, check the brakes and see what the linings and pads look like. Check for leaks and so forth. Make the Z safe , then just enjoy. You will be glad you did, later. ANY questions just ask, there is a wealth of information here. So Just ask. Gary

First off don't just start throwing parts at your engine. Go to the parts store and buy a set of NGK BPRES spark plugs. No champions or AC. NGK . Plugs and Points will not act like what you are describing. Check the linkage to the Carburetors something is sticking or not returning to idle. There should be two return springs attached to the linkage and connecting to the heat shield below the manifolds. If when you do remove the Distributer cap and check the points , yes if they are pitted or burned they need to be replaced and replace the condenser also. But find out what is causing the drastic changes in RPM first. The engine still runs , only is erratic . Fix this first. The problem with changing a bunch of things at one time, is that you will then not know what could be causing what problem. Fix one thing at a time. Once you figure out what is causing the RPM difficulty and you fix that . Then look to the ignition. So often people will go right to the ignition , do a bunch of things . That didn't work so they start ''adjusting the Carbs'' still have the problem , lets adjust the valves ! Now you have carbs that are out of adjustment and the same with the ignition and so on.

Hello it snowed in Denver today. this time of year heat will not be a problem.

I strongly advise that you buy the book by Wick Humble, How to restore your DATSUN Z-CAR . Caps are how the name is printed. This would be a valuable asset for you in this project . Especially since you did not disassemble the Z in the first place . Publisher is Fisher Books . MSA has them and maybe Amazon may still carry them. There are lots of pictures and hints that you will find vary helpful. Gary

I removed the vary same polly bushings that you installed! I found that the road noise and gear wine was more than I will tolerate. At least this has been my experience. I have the OEM rubber now and actually the only difference that I can see is the diminished related noise by about 40%. The performance of the suspension seem the same as far as I have been able to see. By the way the picture showing the diff with the rear cover removed , the suspension member on the ground is the transverse link. Gary:ermm:

Just go to Ace Hardware , buy stainless carriage bolts the length you need . Polish the heads and they will look like chrome. Gary

well you came to a wealth of information here on this web Site . Welcome. What is rare where you live maybe common elsewhere , just let us know what you are in need of. Gary

Just tell them about the classicZ web site. The part is not that much money. Check out Rock Auto on line.