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[Q Frick , Here is the name and information on a Accredited & Certified Appraiser. He is part of a international Vehicle Appraiser Network. He is located in Washington St. so likely too far from your location , but get in touch with him and see if he can be of help. Duke Charpentier Super48@comcast.net VEHICLEAPPRAISERS.COM (all caps on the business card.) 360-639-4993 Duke was a guest speaker at one of NorthWest Z club meetings a while back and he is most informative.

since you have the whole clip. Cut the rusted metal back to where you find good metal. I just use a saws-all. then cut and fit a like replacement and weld all in place. POR is highly recommended . But if you use this stuff do not cut corners and follow the makers instructions. If you try and cut corners then don't bother because the result you won't likely be happy with the result. I used self tapping sheet metal screws to hold the new metal in place. Then just remove the screws and fill the holes when you weld in the panel. Gary

These are appliance slots like you said . they are wheels that the dealers were using in the day. In the 70s most Hot Rods were using the same style. They are period correct. Gary

Ha ha Do the words HAIR TEETH AND EYE BALLS MEAN ANYTHING TO YOU !! ha ha

I am just going to sit back and watch people that cannot afford a new car , trade in one that is paid for and go further into debt.

Adam, if the fuse and or the wiring become heated , you either have a short or partial one, or some corrosion on some contacts. This causes high resistance and will damage your wiring and may melt the fuse block. Putting the combo switch under a load like this can/will cause it to fail. It sounds like your Combination switch is in trouble . There is a member on this site that rebuilds them. Not cheep to replace. Gary

I was able to find a early '74 . The sway bars on the early '74 will work as they have a bend in them to allow clearance that the later ones do not have. They do make a difference in handling . The end links are all the same so two from a later Z will work fine. I used the OEM rubber on all and am satisfied with the result. My Z is not a track car, but with the Euro stage I springs and it being lowered she handles vary well. And the ride is just firm enough and not harsh. I don't have any knowledge of how well the MSA bar works. If you do use the OEM mounts , I have a extra pair of the plates that hold the block/and bar in place. If you need them send me a PM Gary

The wiring to the pump comes from near the right rear taillight down through the floor. It is with the wires to the sending unit in the gas tank. Up under the dash next to the center console ,between the heater and the console. look for a green wire coming from the right side of the car. There is a in line fuse in the line . check that fuse with a meter , don't just look at it. The same with the other fuses in the fuse block. Sometimes they fail but still look good. Between the electric pump and the tank there should be a in line fuel filter. It could be plugged, a possibility. If you can , have some one turn the key to the start while you are testing the green wire back by the pump for power. Some Zs have a cut off on the pump when there is no oil pressure but will power the pump when in the start mode. Hope this helps. Gary

Congratulations on your 240 Z I couldn't bring up the picture any larger than on the post. So I cannot be of much help there. As for the engine the blocks from '70 -'73 are the same so the parts are all interchangeable. If and when something comes up about replacing things , just ask. Good to have you with us. Gary

What I use is Valvoline Part number VV205 This is VR1 racing oil. I run 10w-30 it has ZDDP. There others but this is a fine quality oil and is readably available. Shell Rotella is another but it must be the NON emissions grade , the same for Dello. In the old days finding oil that meets the API was only what you needed. Now the oils have changed and with roller lifters and Catalytic converters oils have had to eliminate certain important additives . ZDDP being one. On the newer engines it is no longer needed. However with our ''old technology'' we do need the additive. Anytime you ask a oil question , you will open up a debate and we all have opinions. I have mine and it comes form the knowledge of cam grinders and engine builders. I use what I use , you do the same . Nuff said. Gary

The local club ZCCW is vary active and I am sure that they will be most helpful. We here at NW Z do cruises with them most each year even though they are 3 hrs away. There is much to enjoy in the Seattle area. Again send me a PM and I will get back with the contact info. Gary

If you decide on he Columbia Gorge cruise let me know. NorthWest Z will come through for you. Just let me know what you need. There are several cool places to see, the Gorge being one and Mt Hood with Timberline Lodge. I personally will show you some great things to see. Either in the mountains or on the coast along the ocean. Just send me a PM so I will be alerted . Gary

I think you are good to go. Although knowing exactly what is going on is always good. Remember that the temp and oil gages and most times gas as well, are just a approximation of what is happening. As an example my oil pressure gage at idle is way low with a warmed engine . However when I installed a mechanical gage it reads 25 psi when driving the OEM gage shows right in the center. The mechanical reads 50 psi. With a engine not up to temp and running at 2K the OEM shows 3/4 to the 70 psi reading . The mechanical read 70 for the same scenario.

Wing, I question the numbers on the dry test of #4 and the wet test of #1 . Did you do the testing only one time through all cylinders dry and the same wet? Those two high numbers don't figure right when looking at both testing. The numbers for the dry test of #4 went down with oil added? I think the rest of the numbers look great on both tests . I think you got faulty readings though concerning #1 & #4 I say test it again dry and see what it shows. Gary:bulb:

Gema, I have to get in on this also. My original color was orange. But my pictures looked just like yours. I had the same rust , holes and all. The avatar is my Z now. Once you get the rust cleaned up some more , do what Jim said and weld in some new metal . I wouldn't start cutting until you have the replacement parts in hand. Except for the inner fender , remove the rotten metal . If you don't weld , I don't either, find a shop or someone with a tig and get a bid. Zedd Findings , Charlie Osborne , He has sheet metal for most of the rotten areas. Give him a try for replacement parts. I used his floor pans on my Z. First rate. Gary

Adam nailed it. Enjoy the car and make it safe. I drove my Z ugly for almost 2 yrs , deciding weather or not I was going to redo it. She had so many dents and rusty floors. But the rest is history . I am glad I did spend the seat time before starting to make it nice. I took just over 2 1/2 yrs before I was able to take her out on the road . During the time working on the redo. I got a little discouraged that it was taking this long and the amount of effort involved. I did all my own work. With some help from my friend Escanlon. Had I just jumped right in and started the total redo I don't know if she would have turned out like she did. Gary:beer:

Guy please stop showing the pictures of your engine! I am drolling all over my key board. Great Job!! Gary

A friend of mine is a top engine builder of Z engines . He told me that because of the changes in the oils now in use the failure rate of cams and rockers arms has increased to the point that soon NO REUSABLE rockers will be available to re builders. This was due to the lack of the Zink compound that was eliminated in most oils. Our engines and those that have flat tappets need the Zink additive . Newer engines have roller cam and rockers and also all have Catalytic converters and the Zink compound is not computable with the Cat. So the oil companies pulled it from there oils. Diesel rated oils that are NOT emissions rated have the Zink. Valvoline RACING oil also has it. So the debate goes on. Redline has a additive you can add to any oil and it has the needed Zink compound. Assembly lubricants for rebuilding your engine all have the Zink compound. Wonder why? Gary

I agree with Carl in a big way. I had to wait 30 years to own my 240Z . Family obligations came first. With these Zs once bitten you are infected and there is no cure for the virus. Congradulations on your Z. This is a lot of car for a Teen, though. I think the simplicity of the 240 you will find fun to redo. There are several members of NW Z that have both the later cars and the 240. you will find that you will receive 20X the inquires and interest in your ''new'' car, and you will love the personal feed back from the car when you drive Her. Enjoy the ride ! Ask any questions you can think of when redoing your car. Gary

What about your Insurance Co. ? Do you have Hagerty by chance . Because if you do just have the car taken to the body of your choice and have the job done. If not , most likely you will need to replace the fender and hood as well as the headlight assembly and grill. I believe hoods are still available at Nissan. I have a set of sugar scoops from a early 240 I will give you , if you pay for shipping. They are the fiberglass type. Not show quality but use able. Do check the Radiator support to see if it is bent. Most likely the Bumper can be straightened and re chromed. I just read that the front fenders are NLA so look for a used one. Hoods are a bitc# to fix so look for a used one. What part of the world are you? this may make a huge difference. Nissan may still have 280 hoods. Gary

Looks like a great find. Nothing wrong with a 260. They got a bad rep because of the garbage carbs the emission police mandated. I have a vary late '73 and my consule looks like yours , only I dont have the cup holders. I changed my bumpers for 240s . I think you will be vary satisfied with your find . Looks like a great one. I agree about the SUs being a improvement. Welcome to our little group. Gary

DON'T DISTURB THE CRUD! Using a good oil will clean the engine if it is changed every 3k miles. Scraping the buildup can dislodge chunks that will block oil passages . As well meaning that you are in doing this , it is a bad idea. Rislone is a good product . I have been using Quaker State 10W30 and for years and for about 8 years in my Z. This engine was not badly sludged but was dirty. It looks like a freshly rebuilt now. One thing, you SHOULD check is the PVC valve, because if it is faulty this could cause a sludge build up. In using a flush , it could cause the engine to start burning oil now. I am not in favor of a flush. I have been driving my own cars and doing all the oil changes for 54 years and have never flushed out one of my engines. I have used Reslone to free a stuck lifter once . I recommend that you use a good grade of oil and let the detergent do its job. Now that you have disturbed things , you might change the filter only at abut 500 miles . The detergent will keep things in suspension so the filter will collect them. Then depending on how dirty the oil is do it all at 1K and every 2K for a while. Gary