GeoffT

My '68 2000 roadster was well-worn and getting rusty by the time I got it. It had stress cracks around the brake master cylinder and in the trunk, but I'd probably still have it if my job hadn't moved me to another state. My '71 240 has also had some rough miles and many modifications before I got it. In almost 3 years I have probably driven it less than 100 miles while replacing door seals, repairing minor rust, replacing brakes and clutch, and now trouble-shooting a sour engine (I work slow!). But no metal fatigue issues that I've located. Probably much better mail order and salvage parts availability for the Z - relatively few roadsters made by comparison, I think. Good luck! Geoff

JimmyZ - you mention distributor shaft play ... I'm also troubleshooting a foul-running engine with sidedraft Mikunis and what is probably the original fuel tank. The carbs probably need rebuilding or cleaning, and I found what looked like rust in both the electric fuel pump filter and carb filters, so I suspect a dirty tank. But also wonder about distributor - have several degrees (3/8" ?) of rotor play ... what is normal in a good distributor? Thanks!! Geoff

It was the booster pushrood. I adjusted it to about 3 mm out of the booster and the bleeding process went smoothly. Thanks!! - Geoff

Guys - thanks very much for your responses. It sounds like the booster pushrod is the likely problem. My '73 Clymer service manual is not very detailed on this aspect. It does use a caution note to state that the pushrod should be facing up when making this adjustment ... does this sound right? Thanks! -Geoff

I know this isn't rocket science, but I'm stumped. Here's the situation: - new 7/8" Tokico master cylinder (from Courtesy Nissan) - rebuilt brake booster (from MSA) - new shoes and drums - silicone brake fluid I mounted the MC on the car without bench bleeding, connected the brake lines, filled both reservoirs, and by pumping the brake was easily able to push fluid from the front reservoir through the MC front bleed valve. But could get no fluid through the MC rear bleed valve or to the rear line when I loosened it. Took the MC off the booster and placed (gently) in a bench vise. Using a steel punch (in place of the booster pushrod), was able to push fluid through the rear bleed valve. Fluid also dripped from both front and rear line ports. Checked the booster pushrod - it appears to protrude about 3 to 4 mm past the MC mounting flange, which I think is correct. Put the MC back on the car, refilled the reservoirs, pumped the brakes. Again, good fluid pressure from the front reservoir - not even a drip from the rear bleed valve!!! What the hell am I doing wrong? If you can offer any advice or direct me to any information sources, I would greatly appreciate it. I have looked at many brake-related posts on this site. Thanks - Geoff T.

Thanks much to all who replied. Our temperatures have dropped out of the 100s - its back into the garage to get intimate with Z brakes, which I had been mostly avoiding. If front and rear brake systems are separate, is it possible to work on rear lines and not open or bleed the front system?

Carl, thanks for the background on the Logan Blackburn car. When I saw and photographed it at Mid-America Raceways near St. Louis, it had red/white/blue stripes on hood and fenders and in front of the rear wheels. I thought the car was later crashed at this track by a later owner - did not know that it had any ties to BRE cars. But it was usually the fastest thing with doors at our track. -Geoff

Guys -thanks for your suggestions. I think my next step will be to get a closer look at the wheel cylinders and see if they also need replacing. Just as soon as my daytime garage temperatures get below 90 - it's been damn hot here in N. Texas!

I'm having rear brake problems (among other things) on my modified '71 and believe that the drums are out of spec. The car already has various upgrades made by the last owner including adjustable suspension, modified head, agressive cam, triple Mikunis, etc. Given that new drums would cost around $200, should I consider adding a bolt-on disc package instead of investing in the drums? If so, any suggestions for a specific package or vendor? Also, will a new porportioning valve be needed? Thanks for any advice. BTW - I'm a former SCCA track worker from St. Louis. Does anybody recall seeing the awesome yellow Z racer of Logan Blackburn back in the late 70s?