YellowFever

Here is some more information on that car... http://www.viczcar.com/member-rides/austin-hokes-1971-datsun-240z-turbo-l28et http://sites.google.com/a/vq240z.com/www/ Wheels are Watanabe RS8-R (16x9f 16x9.5r).

I have bought 2 of the 280ZX distributors from AutoZone in the past 2 years (one for my 280 and one for my friend's 240). Both of them came WITH the ignition module even though the part description said without module. For $110.00 you really can't beat it!

Check this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35873 Post #1 and #21 should answer your question.

Well, this probably has nothing to do with your situation, but it is something to check. I recently had a fuel supply issue which resulted in my engine going flat (still running, but no power at all). If I pressed in the clutch and revved the engine for 5-15 seconds it would recover and run normally for a while. My air/fuel ratio gauge would go full lean when the problem occurred. My problem was not easily reproduced like yours, but I also had recently rebuilt my carbs. I finally traced it to a sticking float valve on my rear carb. The needle was not moving freely within the seat and was getting stuck closed (up) even though the float bowl was empty. After discovering the problem the solution was easy... I merely had to bend that little tiny spring retaining clip that keeps the needle from falling out of the seat... it was dragging on the needle and keeping it from moving freely.

saridout, I started a thread about this "temperature switch" on Hybrid Z a while back. Here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130436. There is a link at the end of the thread which may be helpful in finding a source for this switch (oops, just checked the link, it leads to the same part number that webdawg1 just posted). Basically, that switch is used to select which pickup in the dual-pickup distributor is used. I assume it switches from the retarded pickup to the advanced pickup when the engine warms up, but it could be the other way around. It may also have some EGR functionality if your car is so equipped (mine is not). If you cannot find a replacement switch you could run without it (you might need to jumper the switch leads to trick the car into using the advanced pickup all the time), or you could convert to a newer distributor which doesn't use dual pickups. I got a 1979 280ZX distributor complete with ignition module (part number 31-619) at AutoZone for $105.00, their ordering system says the distributor does not include module but I have bought 2 of them (one for myself and one for a friend) and they both came with modules. Instructions for this modification can be found here if you are interested. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I hope this helps, Steve

Here is the silver 240 mentioned in the first post... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1064595

Had to change this one a bit, george...

Those are Toyo Proxes TPT tires. Probably not the sportiest tire, but they're great for commuting. 215-50/16 in front 225-50/16 in rear

Thanks, I think the shop that did the work did it right... they welded patch panels in each of the holes and indentations. It turned out nice... I just hope I never get bumped from behind!

I didn't notice any change in stance when I removed my front and rear bumpers (and bumper shocks). Here is a shot of my '76 with a bare bottom... There are lots of holes and indentations on the back of the car, but the rear quarter panels are smooth (unlike most other Zs that have and indentation on each side). There is a threaded hole in each quarter panel where the rubber trim attaches. The front end looked much better without a bumper... this is with stock springs/struts and 215-50/16 tires on the front. Here is another shot of the same car with a fiberglass 240z bumper replica installed. It did not adequately cover all of the holes on the back of the car. And finally, a shot of the car with a smooth butt and some fresh (but dusty) paint...

If I remember correctly the single black wire coming out of the AFM is just grounded at one of the AFM mounting bolts.

Looks like I learned something today. Turning the key to the "START" position should be enough to send juice to the pump. Here is a snippet of text from the service manual... When the ignition switch is turned to the START position for cranking operation the fuel pump is actuated irrespective of the position of the air flow meter contact point. After starting the engine (the ignition switch is ON), the air flow meter contact turns ON through rotation of the engine thereby actuating the fuel pump. If engine stalls for some reason, the air flow meter contact is turned OFF, and the puel pump is stopped, though the ignition switch remains in the ON position. In this manner fuel supply is cut off for safety purposes when the engine accidentally stops during driving.

The AFM connector is indeed on the bottom. The switch is separate from the air flow potentiometer, although it is part of the same mechanism. If you remove the black cover from the side of the AFM you will see a set of sliding contacts at the bottom as well as another pair of contacts near the left side for the fuel pump circuit. There is a picture of it on Blue's tech tips here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/afm1.jpg You are correct that the fuel pump will only turn on when the engine is cranking or running... just turning the key to "ON" or "CRANK" is not enough to send juice to the pump... the AFM switch must also activate the fuel pump relay. I'm in the same boat as sblake01. I also own a 76, so I'm not POSITIVE that the 75 and 76 are the same... but I ASSUME they are the same since my Datsun service manual says it covers 75-76 models.

On early 280s there is a switch in the AFM that prevents the fuel pump relay from sending power to the fuel pump unless the engine is "running". Air flow through the AFM, even during cranking, is what trips this switch. On later 280s there was an oil pressure switch (part of the oil pressure sending unit), but the early 280s did not have the oil pressure switch. So, with the key in the "on" position you should get voltage to the fuel pump IF you rotate the AFM flap slightly by hand. You can do this by removing the front AFM boot and pressing the flap open slightly (stick a rag in it to hold it open). You could also remove the black cover from the AFM and rotate the counterweight that is connected to the flap. If you still don't get voltage to the fuel pump while the flap is rotated then you've got other problems to find.

Here's another shot of my 16" Konig Rewinds... with stock suspension.