zKars

Tough luck. Whether these are the ones for the front diff mount/front control arm brace or the ones at the top of the 90 deg bent plates that locate the rear of the control arms, you’re only solution is to either drill and extract the remains of the bolts and re-thread, or cut out the welded nut area in the body channel and weld in some new ones. Just cut out a square big enough to get the captured nut out, then recreate a new patch with about 16 gauge steel, then, with a high grade M10x1.25 nut welded to it and weld that back in. I know, sounds easy to me, but…..

North American VIN’s for 73 model year S30 start at 120000. The 72’s started at 40000 IIRC. 5 digit vin pretty much makes it a 72. There was lots of factory delays and weird goings on that could very well make a 8/72 a 72 MY and not a 73. Do you have a lit HVAC panel or front bumper with a filler strip and massive mounting bars? Those are hall marks of a 73. No NA S30 had a electric fuel pump, though all were wired for it. There was a factory relay setup that was part of a factory add on setup that installed an electric fuel pump and a new harness that detected if the car was still running in case of an accident. Extra 2 relays that got mounted passenger side kick panel and lovely harness out to the engine bay taping into the Vreg connector I believe.

Steve! Would never have guessed new brass rep rads are available, and the price!!!! $400 CAD geez Louise, it costs near $500 to recore an OEM rad in Calgary! Thanks! And while I’m here, if you live in a cool climate, (like Moi) you may find an aluminum rad is actually overkill, and may not allow the engine to warm up enough to clear morning condensation and warm my ancient and frail frame sufficiently. I’ve had to block half the rad some days. Z’s not so bad, 510’s seem plagued with this. Aluminum not always best. And (jeez Jim, shut up already) there are some excellent aluminum repair DIY polymer repair sticks out there. Think Hot glue (the “right” hot glue).

Some entrepreneur type will now invent a lovely 3D printed clip thingy, that will look like it belongs, to do this job and will sell millions. Not me.

I hang my head in shamed for use of the lowly zip tie in this application. At least I’ve never melted one. Yet…..

Internet color pictures aren’t the best to judge, but this looks a lot like the silver on the new Z. Also looks a lot like the rattle can silver “we” like to use for 240z tail light panels/hub caps/grills…..

Quick test is to disconnect the cable from the heater valve and see if the temp control can move through its full motion. This will prove the valve is faulty and lets you see the distance the cable core moves at the valve to let you understand how far the valve arm has to move. Another issue might be a sync issue. You have to position the valve in full open position by hand first, then position the temp control lever in the full hot position, THEN tighten the set screw on the core at the valve. (Can also do this in closed/cold position). If the lever was half way when the valve was fully open or closed, then the lever movement would be restricted to less than full motion

Would be easy to test. You need three things. 12vsupply to power up the gauge (your car battery), a wire to the gauge contact and ground the sensor housing to the - side of the same battery you use to power the gauge, then dip the sensor in a pot of water on the stove to heat it up, and a meat or cooking thermometer to get the exact temp of the water. Then get the water 120 and then to 185 and see if the gauge reads at the 120 point and the middle, which is normal operating temperature.

Good lord, just searching around on the net for that part number shows prices in the $40-70 range! I don’t think so Tim! Guess my stash of these is going to be my retirement suppliment.

Trico 11-601 is the pump you’re looking for. You can also use that pump that Zed Head showed, just chop off that plastic connector and solder the wires to the revealed terminals on the pump body. Also https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63107-how-to-replace-windshield-washer-pump-motor/

There is a hole in the vertical side of the frame rail where the round tip of the j-hook fits. Sort of key hole shaped. Have to look from the center of car outward to spot it,

I had a look at a 240 and 280 pedal box, and the pivot points on the 280 box are at the same place as the 240. The rubber pedals are closer, but that seems to just be the stop adjusters are different.

Never seen washers on those console machine screws. Clearly there in the fiche aren’t they? Always thought the shape of the seat where the screw head sits were kinda tapered and fit the underside shape of the screws making washers an unexpected thing. Who knew?

Conventional wisdom says these “help” keep water off the brake surfaces in wet conditions. Also help deflect solid debris that flys around from getting junk stuck in your caliper crevices. Had a honda once that some how ate stones and lodged them in nasty places in the brake parts causing loud disturbing noises and late night phone calls from teen age daughters sure their cars were possessed by demons and demanding I come exorcise them immediately. Are they “required” no. Do they increase chances of brake failure? Infinitesimally……

I love seeing inventive solutions. Your designs are outstanding. Our oil cap thread is also shared by Honda. Amazon brings up something like this. Has a nice flat surface waiting for just the right custom Datsun themed sticker or 3d printed emblem.