zKars

Some of you have dealt with this little annoyance, and I have found a perfect solution. When doing a full restoration, or at least the full interior, you often have to replace the head liner and the A pillar vinyl, as well as the vinyl trim that goes across the top of the windshield where the sun visors and rear view mirror mount. While I won’t discuss the pain of installing these items, what I have found is even more of a pain, is finding the nine M5 threaded holes to put the visor and mirror mount back in. All that fresh painfully installed lovely vinyl, and 9 secret little holes you have to find to poke holes through. Get out the pokey thingy of your choice and start poking until you find them. If you put some kind of thin foam behind the vinyl like you’re supposed to, those damn holes are just a nightmare to sleuth out. Not any more! I put some nice long M5 grub screws in the nine threaded holes, THEN did the upholstery. Then finding the tips of them sticking out is easy! Make little “X” slits to expose them, grab your M3 hex key, back them out and screw in the visor and mirror mounts. Five minutes each! Easy peasy.

9 years! Nice Resurrection. My four Ampco bodies just say “Made in Japan” on the side

Being lazy and not having read the entire thread, I have a suggestion that perhaps has not been tried yet. Replace the spade connector on the end of the BY wire at the starter. It may “look” just fine, you may have even cleaned and tightened the metal contact. I had one where there was only one strand of wire still crimped under the terminal tangs and that strand (like the rest) were filthy and corroded. No way to get enough current flowing to engage the starter solenoid. Snip, strip, scrape any corrostion off of the bare wire, crimp a new 1/4 FM terminal, stuff it on the starter terminal.

A prior discussion long ago about the intention of this part led us to believe (guess?) that it is a safety item in the case of a crash, to prevent the rack from rotating to preserve steering control by preventing the steering shaft u-joint angle from locking due to excessive angle. Or if the bushings wear out or fall out etc. Can’t imagine what else it might be for. I don’t think there is a force tendency to rotate the rack during normal driving. The tie rod ends rotate freely. Just me thinking out loud. Well, typing out loud. I’m likely to have a well used example attached to a old steering rack around here someplace if the need arises.

Here is what the fiche has to say for the “Holder - Seat Belt” production history

Added a resource to this complication thread. Another source for the stake u-joints

Little advantage to DOT3 in my opinion. Worst part is having to COMPLETELY flush out ALL the DOT3 before replacing with DOT4. Are you prepared to do that properly? Bit of maintenance to change the DOT3 fluid every couple of years when it gets dark isn’t worth the hassle and expense of going DOT4. Not convinced it improves braking in any measurable way for street use. It’s so cheap I buy it by the 2 litre jug.

I believe I have a couple of early master cylinders in working order. Definitely used, but should be rebuildable. Message me after the new year and I can something on the way to you if you like.

Did you also replace the donut in the steering shaft with poly? Put the rubber stock one back in. If you want really wonderful isolated steering, install one of the power steering columns that are now available, AND replace the entire rack with the brand new ones from TechoToy Tuning.

Took Summit quite a while to get them in, but they appeared at my doorstep in time for Christmas. I have to say, they look FANTASTIC. Yes they have the curve already in. I have not tried to actually fit them. Will report back when I do.

I’ll bet they were either smaller, softer or both than the currently available replacements.

I seem to recall a thread where a member used a block and tackle or some such to suck those suckers into place. Complete battle. Could NOT get the screws in any other way. i have fought this battle and given up and trimmed the seals away then used some glass sealant to form a lovely “looking” seal against the body. Or leave the stock seal, clean it up, then use the filler technique to get a moisture seal. Just another battle with ill fitting aftermarket weatherstripping.

Yes it’s suppose to have a lock washer, but I believe your problem is stripped threads. You snug it but it pops free. I cannot imagine a scenario that would loosen that bolt. There is little force on it other than the clamping force around the splines. At least adding a washer, will position the threads in a new place and maybe it will snug up and stay that way. M10x1.25 thread if you want to get a new one. I’m also concerned about the 1/4 of play, the splines shouldn’t allow ANY play just because clamp bolt is loose. I guess it could be pried open way too far? Do the splines slip on super sloppy when you assemble it? Usually its a real snug fit.

Maybe not the most interesting post of the day, but just used my u-joint tool on the half shafts of the current restoration re-assembly, and it fits just fine with the extra welded lip thickness. Good for both drive shaft and u-joint as is. Oh, and use a cheap air chisel with a pointy tip to remove those stupid c-clips. No more banging on screw driver trying to get rusty ones to move.

30mm long. Round pan head philips (JIS?)

Change the fuel filter too. Sure feels like fuel delivery to me. Plugged lines, plugged filter, pump going bad. Also check the dizzy hasn’t come loose or the vacuum hose to it hasn’t fallen off.

PRP has new (to me anyway) options to rebuild or replace your door belt moldings. WFP4410-70 kit with LH and RH rubbers only. Install on your exist WFP4411-70. LH and RH complete with SS strip with new rubber 70-72 WFP4411-73. LH and RH complete with SS strip with new rubber 73-78 Not sure what the difference would be….. Summit seems to have good pricing PRP.COM is $161 for 4411-70 vs $95 at Summit

I also have seen and installed their tanks. First rate. There is also a company making plastic tanks, https://www.vintagetanksolutions.com/products They also have one that is molded to allow the installation of an in-tank pump and level sender in a recess on top for EFI applications.

Monkey early bottom, non monkey top. Poor mounting system often results in very loose shifter shaft after the fork spreads and the pin wears out. Reminds us of walking Gibbon monkey with floppy arms in the air. Makes changing gears feel like a suggestion rather than a definite answer

And YES they have the other “glass” as well! (Bottom of the linked page above)

I was just googling FW241 for a buddy that needs a windshield and what should appear? https://www.plastics4performance.com/datsun-240z-hardcoated-lexan-polycarbonate-front-windshield

There are SO many great brake kits out there now, I would no longer deal with the Maxima/240sx caliper options. My experience with buying Rockauto calipers was so disappointing that I said never again. Ebrake cable attaching is a nightmare at best. The BEST experience with rear disk brake kits lately is with DPRacing, though admittedly for 510. Quality of brackets, outstanding. Quality of Ebrake adaption cable etc was nothing short of astoundingly good. They list kits for Z and 510 with plenty of options. They were all based on separate brake and ebrake calipers, all from Wilwood. Just my two cents. This is some examples. They feature kits for small wheels too, front and rear. I think I have the 401-9520 rear kit for 13” wheels. They do fit 14” ZX alloys, but for 13, would need aftermarket open barrel wheels, but they would fit

240

I have a set of them. I bought their whole kit to check it out. Especially the long un-available moose-stash bar bushings. The rack bushings feel very “Stock” in my hand. I have not installed them yet.

You’ve had this glass in the car before the restoration and the window worked correctly then? Or is the car new to you and never used the window before? Fully agree to put the frame back in as well, since the back of the glass rides in the frame at the rear. The picture of the glass out of the car showing the two roller tracks tells me this window is from a 240, and I know that using 240 glass in a 280 will cause the “fall off the track” issue. The location and length of the two roller tracks is slightly different between the two. They changed the regulator in the 280 as well to offset it further into the door. The way I quickly tell them apart is by looking at the front track. If it is butted up to the frame so that the roller cannot escape out the front, then it’s 240 glass. This appears to be the case, see my red circle. 280 windows allow the roller to enter or leave all four ends of the two tracks. They are also slightly different lengths.