zKars

Steve! Would never have guessed new brass rep rads are available, and the price!!!! $400 CAD geez Louise, it costs near $500 to recore an OEM rad in Calgary! Thanks! And while I’m here, if you live in a cool climate, (like Moi) you may find an aluminum rad is actually overkill, and may not allow the engine to warm up enough to clear morning condensation and warm my ancient and frail frame sufficiently. I’ve had to block half the rad some days. Z’s not so bad, 510’s seem plagued with this. Aluminum not always best. And (jeez Jim, shut up already) there are some excellent aluminum repair DIY polymer repair sticks out there. Think Hot glue (the “right” hot glue).

Some entrepreneur type will now invent a lovely 3D printed clip thingy, that will look like it belongs, to do this job and will sell millions. Not me.

I hang my head in shamed for use of the lowly zip tie in this application. At least I’ve never melted one. Yet…..

Internet color pictures aren’t the best to judge, but this looks a lot like the silver on the new Z. Also looks a lot like the rattle can silver “we” like to use for 240z tail light panels/hub caps/grills…..

Quick test is to disconnect the cable from the heater valve and see if the temp control can move through its full motion. This will prove the valve is faulty and lets you see the distance the cable core moves at the valve to let you understand how far the valve arm has to move. Another issue might be a sync issue. You have to position the valve in full open position by hand first, then position the temp control lever in the full hot position, THEN tighten the set screw on the core at the valve. (Can also do this in closed/cold position). If the lever was half way when the valve was fully open or closed, then the lever movement would be restricted to less than full motion

Would be easy to test. You need three things. 12vsupply to power up the gauge (your car battery), a wire to the gauge contact and ground the sensor housing to the - side of the same battery you use to power the gauge, then dip the sensor in a pot of water on the stove to heat it up, and a meat or cooking thermometer to get the exact temp of the water. Then get the water 120 and then to 185 and see if the gauge reads at the 120 point and the middle, which is normal operating temperature.

Good lord, just searching around on the net for that part number shows prices in the $40-70 range! I don’t think so Tim! Guess my stash of these is going to be my retirement suppliment.

Trico 11-601 is the pump you’re looking for. You can also use that pump that Zed Head showed, just chop off that plastic connector and solder the wires to the revealed terminals on the pump body. Also https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63107-how-to-replace-windshield-washer-pump-motor/

There is a hole in the vertical side of the frame rail where the round tip of the j-hook fits. Sort of key hole shaped. Have to look from the center of car outward to spot it,

I had a look at a 240 and 280 pedal box, and the pivot points on the 280 box are at the same place as the 240. The rubber pedals are closer, but that seems to just be the stop adjusters are different.

Never seen washers on those console machine screws. Clearly there in the fiche aren’t they? Always thought the shape of the seat where the screw head sits were kinda tapered and fit the underside shape of the screws making washers an unexpected thing. Who knew?

Conventional wisdom says these “help” keep water off the brake surfaces in wet conditions. Also help deflect solid debris that flys around from getting junk stuck in your caliper crevices. Had a honda once that some how ate stones and lodged them in nasty places in the brake parts causing loud disturbing noises and late night phone calls from teen age daughters sure their cars were possessed by demons and demanding I come exorcise them immediately. Are they “required” no. Do they increase chances of brake failure? Infinitesimally……

I love seeing inventive solutions. Your designs are outstanding. Our oil cap thread is also shared by Honda. Amazon brings up something like this. Has a nice flat surface waiting for just the right custom Datsun themed sticker or 3d printed emblem.

Another RockAuto find

Things went well. The jig allowed me to drill a nice 1/2” hole aligned to the original switch location. The fun began when I started to file down my “blob” to create a flat surface just like the original hole. I used my favorite little belt profile sander with a 3/8 wide belt. Went pretty well, really should have some kind of milling bit with a 1/2 pilot that would mill a flat 90 degree surface, Might have to resort to sealing the threads to ensure not leaks.

The tricky bit now is mounting the case so that a milling bit is positioned flat and square to the existing hole that should be a great guide for how to orient it. After a couple of attempts with plywood bolted to the case to get the hole surface level with the mill table, I had an light bulb moment. Why not use a bolt and plate mounted in the existing threads to create a drilling guide for the new hole. After I build it, I will post pics of it. Halfway there now.

Well, today I have reason to deal with the 4 vs 5 speed bell housing reverse switch issue. I’m putting a “B” 4 speed bell housing on a 240sx “C” trans to fit in my 510 with an L18. I had previously machined out the counter shaft bearing to 62mm, but never finished doing the 16mm bore out of one shift rod, or clearance behind the bearing for the bigger gear that hides there. But first, the reverse switch location. After considering grinding the 5-R shift rod as mentioned above, I realized that would be dumb, since I will need to put the “C” bell housing back on later this year when I finish the KA swap I’m working on which would render the reverse switch useless. So I decided to move the reverse switch hole forward the 7/8 inch, ie drill and tap a new hole. It’s M14x1.5, but the trick is getting the angle right, it’s not “square” to the surface, but offset. It’s also thin, ie it doesn’t have a built up boss that would provide both enough threads and to position the switch the correct distance away from the rod. Well, first, I realized I learned how to TIG weld aluminum this spring while doing KA swap things, so I decided to just add a bunch of material, then machine it down to essentially duplicate the existing mounting location. Here is step one, add material and kind of grind it down to flatten.

Found it! Doing the SEEK thing is especially fun to watch. Guess there are at least 2 or three AM stations here to seek for….. AM_Radio.MOV

FIRST I MUST APOLOGIZE FOR POSTING INCORRECT PHOTOS. THEY HAVE BEEN CORRECTED TO THE CORRECT RADIO. AGE IS CATCHING UP TO ME FOR SURE. AGAIN MY SINCERE APOLOGIES. I have a used and fully functional early AM only 240z radio from a Jan 71 240. Model TM-1081ZB(s) Came out of a Z restored last year. Owner has had if many many years, pretty sure its original to the car. I have a video somewhere in my library with it working on the bench playing the only AM station we have left in Calgary. Some talk radio news outlet I think. Will post as soon as I find it. Don’t hold your breath as they say, if I have to I’ll make another one. Seen these at $2500USD when fully restored, happy to let this one go for $1500 USD plus postage.

Small update I guess as the tariffs seem to have shifted to a flat 10% now, according to Zonos messages I’ve been receiving. Since it is now possible to predict in advance what the tariff amounts will be as I ship items, I may be tempted to return to shipping items to the US via postal only. I’m posting one item for sale today as a test.

Negatory sorry

Little bit of brightness and contrast twiddling….. Shows up the cover better anyway Sure looks like an original cover at least, I’ say that due to the wavy distorted shape that is the common aging symptom. Anxious to see better pictures of the whole thing.

I found I like these SS studs from Amazon. Ford engine spec. I love the hex internal drive on the end, makes inserting them easy. Cut to length as you need to. I also like the price and quality. I do have a ton of their flange nuts left over, i rarely use those. Belmetric has m8 nuts with 12mm heads that are yellow zinc plated

The ring around the base of the switch has two tiny holes. Have to invent a tool to turn it, like a set of pointy tipped tweezers. More difficult is getting to the two electrical connectors at the back.

One very common culprit is the hazard switch. It is the central clearing house that affects turn and hazard signal functions. Try cycling it several times (like 20) and see if the symptoms change or if the problem solves itself. Remove it and open it to clean the 8 contacts