zKars

To add the overall usefulness of this thread, I can report on the installation and fitment of the Kawasaki/Motor Master ATV700 u-joints. I am happy to report they are a PERFECT fit compared to the stock u-joints. No slop, no problem with lock clips, just a perfect press fit and clip fitment. Un-detectibly different from the stockers, except for the rust of course. Some of the easiest u-joint replacements I've had the displeasure of doing. Paid $20.47 each via Amazon. Actually came from Powersport Superstore... Wait, one more thing to report. One this set that I just did, the small amount of "slope" in the old joints was due exclusively from a lack of lube in the roller pins in the caps. Just dry little pins flopping around in there. If I could have pumped some goop in there, it would have firmed right up. I say just drill a hole, in the center of the cross, use your pin tip your grease gun tip and pump 'em up! The centers of the cross are hollow and extend to each cup cavity. No room for a zerk of course. That's why they never had them to start with.

Nothing wrong with duct tape version of bushings, as long as they are temporarily put into use and checked at each stop light. Really wish you would have gotten pictures.

Very funny. Driving with socks in the snow is a treat indeed.... Stupid snow, broke thousands of trees in town, real mess.

Just wanted to clarify. The splines with possible play I'm talking about are inside the steering column between the steering wheel and the firewall. Tough to check, just a last resort to get that last bit of play out. I agree the splined connections in the engine bay are always very tight or rusted solid, no chance of play of there. BTW, Go Flames!

Rad shops often do gas tank work as well. If the holes are isolated to one area, they'd likely weld a patch over the entire area. If you have holes over a larger area, time for a new (to you) tank. I don't believe anyone has found a source for "new" tanks at this point. Also be aware that 77-78 tanks do not fit the 75-76 cars.

I almost hate to bring up another source of steering play but here goes. The column itself has a splined connection internally that allows for the column crush action in a crash. There can be play there between the splines after all these years as well. A good friend while tracking down his steering play found that if you change the engagement point of the splines, ie telescope the lower end that sticks out of the column in the engine bay up about a 1/4", the play went away since you have changed to spline mesh contact points. The way to move the shaft deeper/uphill into the end of the column is to add a spacer next to the rubber/poly isolator puck inside the coupler. This also means four longer bolts and the creation of a spacer with holes. Anybody know a trick to tightening a spline fit? A bit of hammer "work" to deform then slightly??? I know what you're thinking, there are two splined joints on the steering shaft, one at the rack, and one just below the rubber coupler, why not just slide them each apart 1/8" and re-tighten that lock bolt? Well, that lock bolt fits through a very tight fitting cross groove in the splines so you don't have any up or down movement or you can't put the bolt back in. Well you could "enlarge" that groove on the side toward the firewall I guess, but not so easy to do. I'm waiting for a set of those ATV ujoints to come as well. Every one of the spare steering shafts I have has some play in those u-joints. You have to clamp one side of the yoke in a vice, then slap a vice grip on the shaft on the other side and wiggle it to actually feel the paly, but there is play in both the upper and lower ujoint in every one I have. And now for my amusing observation of the day. I believe the person who designed the steering isolator rubber thing was Canadian. How do I know? Well I found an official NHL hockey puck in the last parts car. I had heard that some people had used a puck to make an isolator so I couldn't resist comparing the stock donut to an official puck that I just happen to have in my hand. Well, I could not believe how PRECISE the thickness of the puck matches the stock donut. Within a couple of thou!!! The OD of the puck is a bit larger, but there is no way the near perfect thickness match is just a co-incidence. There the designer is therefore Canadian since we invented the game. Obvious, eh?

Dang it. There is a good chance you can find a bearing from a generic source. Take it with you to a big drivetrain or bearing shop. Measure it and check on line to see if find one. Read the fine print on the bearing itself for an SKF or similar part number.

See, never trust an on-line data base. Call and ask. Now the nail biter is, will one actually make it to your doorstep...

Wow, another "I ain't not never seed nuttin' like that b'for" moment. I'd swear those were factory looking spot welds holding them brackets. No average anybody would use welds like that to add brackets like that. Even the captured nut in the center looks factory. If its a square nut tacked on its four corners, that would just about settle it. Please, some worthy Z historian chime in and tell us "yup, seen those a thousand times on Z's from...." or the like and put us out of our questioning misery! And CanTechZ, I just love your brackets too. Some real engineering there with those interlinked springs. Vibration dampers??

I actually use two BlueSea panels. One is a high current 4 fuse panel then 7748l SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems This panel gives me the main high current alternator output fuse and whatever I want eventually that's I want high current protected. Then I have a 12 fuse distribution panel with ground bus terminals, the 5026. ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems I cut through the bus bar on the back of the 5026 somewhere along its length based on how many of the 12 circuits I wanted IGN/Acc and how many Constant 12, then ran a fat 8 gauge to the bus bar that I isolated. Interestingly, I kept the stock fuse block (well, the MSA equivalent) to get me enough fuses for the total system. This puts all the new components on the new fuse panel and leaves most of the stock fuses for stock things, with the exception of Head lights and HVAC which are on the new panel. Now all this and the bank of relays for all the new stuff (fans, light relays, HVAC etc) and wiring connections to everything are mounted on and around the passenger foot well area

Great pictures for comparison Jim. I betting the incorrect MSA connectors are actually just butt splice connectors, where you were supposed to cut your old spade connectors off your old box wiring and crimp the ends of the resulting pigtail wires into those butt splices. No doubt the instructions to do that were MIA.... Sourcing those large spade connectors is tough. I haven't found them yet. Anyone?

Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Steering Gear (Rack & Pinion Type) Much better pictures and part number listings. Courtesy is only showning the bearing (#10) as being available anymore.... No big surprise. I'll call Nissan Canada and see what I can dig up. Nope sorry 48127-78500 and 48128-78500 are not available here either.

The MSA boxes are very good quality. They have no provision for the OEM lids to fit however. The curcuit ID's are printed on the circuit board so the lid is not required to remember what's what. I have BlueSea stuff in my Z, exceptionally good quality. Using the right one gives you not only replacements for OE curcuits but room to grow for future additions. Get the 5032. ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems then you don't have to go hacking up the bus bar yourself. One side for IGN/ACC only, the other Hot all the time. Simple. Go get a couple of 6 pin connector blocks from OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha and make an lovely plug and play replacement. I would stay away from used OE fuse boxes.

I'm on side with Darrel. I'll be you don't have proper push rod engagement into the master. You seem to have done everything else correctly.

Kerrigan, I have a bunch of old fuel pumps. I can scavenge any parts you need. Not sure how many Nikki or other. Let me know and I'll look. Just took a stock 10/70 engine apart that had one.

Just for clarification here for the correct Stagg part numbers (from hybridz thread about this) New S30 Shock and Spring Option - Page 2 - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ #552204 fronts for 240-280z and come with both gland nuts. #552205 240Z rears #552206 260-280Z rears As far as the harsh ride goes, do you get a bone jarring CRASH when you go over a bump? I'd be checking to see how much shock tube is showing with the car at static ride height with you in it. Maybe you're bottom the strut out. This is not an uncommon issue with shortened springs.

Depending on the year, the hazard flasher could be on driver side or on the passenger side. I believe if you have a tin bracket where a few relays are mounted on the passenger side kick panel up beside the glove box, then the round hazard flasher can is attached to that bracket. If you don't have that relay panel, then its on the drivers side kick panel all by itself. Please correct me if I have this confused. I notice the wires and connectors attached to that flasher in your picture are not the stock items. I'd follow them up into the harness and confirm the quality of their connection to the stock harness.

Whoa boys. We don't even know what year of Z we are dealing with and we are telling him to go check a fuel pump relay. There are no fuel pump relay interactions until at least the first FI cars. And only some 72-73's had an electric pump in the back, and none of that wiring involved a relay, let alone a oil pressure switch! Blackbirdpilot please update at least your first post with your Z details first, THEN we'll put you on the right path.

The N47 head also has no provision to mount the mechanical fuel pump. Well you can, but it you have to machine out the port on the side of the head. The three bolt/stud holes are there but none of the N47 heads I've seen have the opening into the head. Perhaps this is the time to consider a low pressure electric pump.

Good, now you know for sure you have an M10 threads. How they got that way, well that's another mystery. The shift rod in your picture sure looks like a regular old Datsun shifter. I wonder if someone cut the old shifter shorter, and since it thickens as it gets closer to the base, they found it was easier to put M10 threads on it. Sounds like you have to convert the threads in the knobs you want to use to M10 threads. I could send you another shifter rod with the usual threads on it....

No stock Nissan S30 or S130 shifter that i know of has anything but 8x1.25 threads. Get a thread gauge and figure out what you have. A picture of this shifter rod would be nice too. Maybe get a 8mm nut from, hmmm... what's handy and easy to get to.... a nut from the brake master cylinder where it bolts to the booster? See if it fits on the shifter. Then you have a known quantity for comparison.

Finally got it home today. Thanks to persimmon240 for swamping for me. We were totally spoiled getting it on the trailer... Tomorrow starts the tear down fun!

Read the MSDS at zmax itself www.zmax.com/documents/msds_105_avblend.pdf There is a single ingredient listed. Mineral Oil, >99% Now is "Mineral oil" a generic term, or is there a single or any number of compositions for Mineral Oil.... You decide: Mineral oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I would try to beg/borrow/buy a tail pipe AFR gauge and determine if the bog is the result a lean condition or not. That will give a reason to pursue fuel or spark with better confidence. Feels like either weak spark/bad plugs or fuel metering problem to me.

QUOTE=John Coffey;462763]About 6 years ago I offered a complete undercar fastener kit (yellow zinc-chromate, all new parts) sourced from Wurth. Class 8.8 and 10.9 fasteners as appropriate for the application. No takers. I was told it was too expensive by everyone interested who felt $250 was the most anyone should charge for nuts and bolts. Ah yes, it has been proven many times that what "should" be done and what "can" be done are separated by cheap Datsun people. Don't make me repeat the copper wire invention story yet again... Somewhere on this forum is a thread that contains a spreadsheet of all the suspension and drive line bolt specs that I may have contributed to. I should likely update it with the trans bolt sizes too. Then anyone is welcome to go shopping and see just what it takes to buy all those bolts... Now where is that spread sheet again..... Ah yes, here. 240z_hardware.pdf[