zKars

The camfer on the inside matches the angle on the end of the spindle pin. What's the mystery? Once both sides are together and centered, those rubbers just provide dust and moisture protection. I agree the ID seems to slip right over the spindle pin, but once the outer washer is on there, it will be fine. Now that I think of it, none of the stocker rubber washers I've taken out of there looked like that. They were simply flat on both sides. And hard, and cracked, and darn near useless....

Wow! Even Carl's value is rising! "Mr" Beck indeed!

Relax. Asking prices have nothing to do with the market value. Remember it's the buyers that determine the value, not sellers. The fact that they are asking more than we perceive as the current value is merely a sign that sellers believe the value of these cars is rising or they are delusional. You can ask whatever you want for your car, but in the end, when you need it gone, you will sell it at the actual market value in your area, ie what a buyer is actually willing to give you for it on that fateful day. What is frustrating for those of us trying to get a handle on market value, is that you rarely get to know the actual selling price. We have had a couple of these "crazy asking prices" scenarios in our area recently too. All of them have not sold and neither have had any offers within spitting distance. The sellers are very concerned about this as they firmly believe their asking price is fair based on money and effort spent and quality of the resulting projects. What they fail to understand is that none of that matters a hoot... The other one that comes to mind has been repeatably putting their "car" up for sale for a high asking price, not having it sell, taking the ad down after a few weeks, then repeating the process again at the exact same price. I think we are on the fifth or sixth cycle now over a couple of years. Either they really don't want to sell their car, or they don't get that the market value is below their asking price. Now if we all agree to ask 2 or 3 times what the market says our cars are worth, then the buyers will have no choice but to pay the inflated prices if they want one. Wait, I think you call that "price fixing".... Isn't there jail time involved in that? Guess we're stuck with a buyers market for now....

I for one, want to take this opportunity to personally thank each and everyone of the many individuals who have been brave enough (fine line between bravery and stupidity, ain't it?), to take the giant leap into the abyss of starting and running a Datsun parts or service "business". Given the kinds of criticism that started this thread, and in countless other ones across the spectrum of Datsun space, I'm surprised anyone has bothered. Whether you did it out of the raw will to help, the prayer of maybe adding to your families bottom line to make their lives a little better, or maybe just because you like making stuff, and thought you'd share, or whatever your motivation, I can tell you, my life is better because of your efforts. My car goes faster, looks better, and in a hundred other small ways, I have been able to improve it through access to parts and ideas that are now available. I'm pretty sure that there are plenty of other people here can relate in the same way. Did you get the parts quickly? Were they cheap? Were they perfect? Did they come with a warrantee? Nope. Are you dang glad someone made it available so you Z could be better? Yup! So if you want to scrounging bits and pieces from junk yards, cobble things together from junk found under your work bench, pay random machinest $$$ to make things you just can't find, then just keep up the kind of feedback that started this thread. Another distinction I want to point out. Unless I missed something, the large majority of the folks who have stepped up to do this, are "family" members, ie Datsun owners. Even the big players, like CDM (Les) MSA (Greg) and Futofab (Dave) for example, are run by true long term Datsun nuts. How come I know their first names? Cause they're FAMILY!!!! Are there any "outsiders" running a Datsun parts business because of the lucrative nature of Datsun restoration? NO! Well, maybe Black Dragon... I have no idea who runs that place. Get it????? Support your family. Let me also say, being part of a family is a two way street. All you parts and service suppliers, do everything you can to let us know who you are, what you stand for, what's up in your lives, and keep in constant communication with your customers, er, family members, here and directly. If we know your Grampa's sick and you're taking care of him, we suddenly don't care if our widget is two weeks late. We're more likely to senda card, and maybe chicken soup. Is there some place that sends soup anywhere, like FTD or flowers.com ? Is there one for beer? Now THAT would be useful. Take care of each other, the rest just happens.

That's the way it works here. No classifieds within the forum. Everything is on datsunclassifieds.com. It's owned and run by the admin's here. Its kosher.

The panels are attached from the back, inside the hatch, behind the trim panel that covers the back of the light assemblies. There are about 6-8 8mm nuts to remove from each side, then the lights fall out the back. The black trim is part of the light assembly, you can't pry it off from the outside. removal of the inside trim panel is done by pushing out the center pin of the plastic rivets with an 1/8" punch, then pry out the rivet. Have fun!

I cannot make those for $10 bucks! Excellent find Dave! Order in!

If all else fails, follow the instructions in the factory service manual. (link in my signature below to xenons30.com). It's pretty much a matter of setting the length of the clutch master push rod that's attached to the pedal arm. The stop screw/bumper only adjusts the 'up' resting position of the pedal when your foot is off of it. Do not use this to adjust the clutch free point. Shorten the rod to lower the pedal position where the clutch engages. (lets see, shorter, have to push it further to get same volume to release clutch, so the friction point is now closer to the floor. yeah, I think that's right...) This does assume the clutch and hydraulics are good condition.

Is it not best to check the simpliest things first? I'de be changing that bulb and seeing i that fixes it. The fact that they the rear light on that side works, removes the switch and flasher relay as causes. If it's not the bulb, the check it's socket and wiring connections next.

123Ignition.com has a totally new, fully programmable, standalone dizzy and ignition controller for us. L6 and L4. Two wires to the coil, done.

And lets not forget the newest member to this group of treasured restoration parts suppliers, Datsun 240z rubber grommets & parts nix240z (Steve) from this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/garage-hobbyist/49264-240z-fuel-brake-line-insulator-sets-steering-rack-expansion-reservoir.html

This is way more trouble than it needs to be. I bet you don't have the clip correctly installed on the handle so it cannot spread then snap in place in the groove in the splined shaft. There are several incorrect styles of these clips out there, they are close, but if the shape of the "Waist" and the thickness of the wire is not just right, it makes it dang hard to make it work. The clip has a "waist" like a supermodel, not like a beer belly, ini, not outie. Each side of the waist has to protude into the center of the handle, through the slots in the side of the barrel of the handle. If you can't see these two sides of the wire "waist" protruding into the center, at a distance apart less than the diameter of the splined shaft, then its not on right and won't engage. BTW, these are the correct clips. ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners Kinda pricey at $5.23 for 100, but sometimes you just have to pony up....

Not sure you got the complete picture of how this should work yet. Let's see if I can make it more complete. Put the clip into the slot in the handle, ALL THE WAY into the same position it will be in when snapped onto the splined post on the door. The closed end of the clip will stop right up against the barrel of the handle where it can go no further. You should see both sides of the clip now proturding into the handle barrel (where splinded door reg post will go) evenly and centered from both sides. When you press it in place (whack with flat palm), it will spread and snap into the mating groove in the post. You do you NOT push it down into place AFTER putting the handle onto the post. While this might work, its definitely the hard way. And yes, MAKE SURE the closed part of the clip is facing the handle so you have a prayer of getting it off later with a hook. The rag trick is also good for removing it.

vintageconnections.com has those exact bullet connectors. I think I have seen similar generic crimp on bullet connectors in the auto connector section of any auto parts store too. The "blue" one I think is about the right size. like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-BLUE-16-14-GAUGE-BULLET-CONNECTORS-WIRE-TERMINALS-MALE-FEMALE-SPADES-/350977081008

The 123Ignition stuff for Datsun L6 and L4 are now real and available. 123ignition - Nissan L6 Forum - HybridZ This the best of most worlds, short of a fully standalone crank trigger ignition. 100% brand new dizzy, totally programmable ignition timing, OR, a simpler version with 16 predefined timing curves to choose from.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/35247-rear-hatch-emblems-postion-measurements.html the search function above works well. I searched for 'hatch emblem position".

Body Side Molding, Truck Molding, Car Molding, Vinyl Trim

There is a proceedure in the FSM for tightening that nut. You torque it to a spec while spinning the hub then back it off some until the cotter pin can be put through. Being a bit loose generally won't cause noise, but if the bearing is not tight, it will wear quickly and then cause noise. The FSM is availble from the reference link in my sig. Check if the backing plate rubs the brake rotor. It may have been bent during the brake job.

What game? Something special on today?

The BlueSea stuff is theeeee best quality stuff I've ever seen. You know when you turn that big knurled volume knob on a $10,000 stereo amp and it gives you that feeling of quality and richness? Same with the BlueSea stuff. Fabulous. That said the PA box will just fine for what you want. Just put some cleaning maintenance on the spring/summer list of things to do every year. Now if you want water proof, and/or expandable and user configurable, get these http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/fuse-blocks.html The two boxes on the bottom right. The 16 gang splash proof comes with all the individual pins for you to crimp up and configure as you want. AND, as if that's not enough, it's part of a system of snap together blocks. There is a 4-relay block that goes with this system too. Now we're talking DIY electrical and doing it right! http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/relay-holders/hl62943-mini-relay-box-4-gang-splashproof.html

Zedy, you got a Mallory part number to share with us, for that pump of yours?

No need to fiddle with the interior baffle. The fitting is threaded into the valve cover. There is a hard sealing compound at the base thats keeping it tight. Just heat it up with a propane torch and it will spin out. Clean it, thread it back in and JB weld it into its new position.

I remember Canadian Tire had a cathoidic protection device for sale a while ago. I found this on their web site. Read the customer review. I think that will answer the question at hand. Canadian Tire - CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings "I bought this device hoping it will help to prolong the life of my new Infinite G35S which already a 4 years old car by now. Two days after I installed this unit, its LED no longer blinks. Exchanged for a new one. 3 weeks later, I found a newly developed rust spot on the surface of the car. Called the owner of this counteract company. He confirmed that the unit will *not* help to prevent the rust from forming. It only delays a few more hours..." Most of the other reviews are equally as negative and some are just hilarious to read. Especially the warranty related ones.

Make someone happy and think outside the North American box....

The BD bumper are being discussed on Hybridz. Pictures and opinions there. Pics of the new Black Dragon Euro/JDM style (no holes) 240Z bumpers they just released. - Body Kits & Paint - HybridZ $777.65 shipped for the pair according to one poster. The SS bumpers from Harrington/VN at $1050-ish for the pair are likely still the better deal since they will never rust and can be straightened or re-polished if ever damaged without the crazy chrome cost. Depends on your personal future value calculation.