zKars

Mikuni 40's are a hair under 5"

Now we need a source for just the right coil spring. AFM flap spring? old Thermostat bi-metal coil spring, innards from a tape measure? Think man!!

Zeddy: Anti-rotation feature = spot weld. John, don't confuse us with simplicity and reason at this point. We are on a design adventure here!

Numerically lower or higher ratio? I noticed MSA via Kameri has a listing for a ring/pinion sets in 3.154, 4.875 and 5.143 Motorsport! Kameari R200 Differential Gear Set, 4.875 Ratio, 70-89 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

and a torsional style spring tension can be adjusted SO simply by just wrapping it more tightly or loosening it. No more hunting for just the right return spring! Brilliant!

Well, couple of options for you. 1. Weld up that out of line hole and re-drill it in the right spot. Yes it means taking the manifold off and having at least the welding done. But its the "right" way. You could also JB and drill/tap the hole back in the right spot too. I just don't like the permanance of the JB'ing the rod end into the hole. Makes taking the linkage apart a real bugger. 2. Or how about this. Get a long 1" x 0.5" aluminum bar to go across the three manifold holes and mount the three rod ends in this new bar. This has two advantages. First it allows you remove the entire linkage for alignment and service anytime you want VERY EASILY, and you get to place the rod ends where you want to best support it based on where you have your carb arms and throttle cable attachment point etc. I have this arrangement and like it very much. I especially like the ability to have the entire linkage on the bench when aligning the three arms to each other and to the bar. In fact I have a little connector/sync linkage between the front two carbs and only run two rod ends and two carb arms/push rods from a much shorter (and hence stiffer) 3/8 bar. I wish I had a picture handy. Maybe a comprimise would be to drill the existing hole large enough to accept a threaded bushing, so you glue in the bushing after its centered, but leave the rod end free to thread into the bushing. Could just grind off the sides of 5/16 18 nut to make the bushing. Many options, more will be suggested I'm sure

This is the remains of a scrapping of a dead late 5speed about 2 years ago. I salvaged the shifter ears to design/test short shifters, so had to take that nasty pin out to get the shaft out. Since this thread got posted I've thinking "dang I know I kept the ears part, but I must of tossed that shaft, didn't I??" I finally went to look, and guess what I found!!! That and I have more Z bits laying around than I know what to do with....

I think this is what you want, yes? pm me or send a note to z240@shaw.ca and we'll set ya up!

This is a common failure point. Seen it on lots of Z doors. There is another crack spot at the rear in the same relative location.

PM sent

I can pop one in the mail for you tonight from Calgary. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca with an address.

yellow wire is likely water temp sender wire. Bullet connector on the front of the upper rad hose housing.

Heat. Lots. Burn the sucker off.

This should get us on the same page. "Technology for Tuners"Newsletter #3 :: Exhaust Clamp, XD-1, How Wideband Sensors Work, and more! Modern, affordable accurate wide band AFR is available to masses without having to build our own circuits. One of the better known systems: Innovate Motorsports LC-1 and LM-2 WBo2 WideBand o2 Systems Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products - DIYAutoTune.com

Pretty tricky to fix permanently. Old flexible plastic parts don't mend easily. Duct tape just doesn't seem right. Someone will chime in with some ideas, but if one or more pleats are ripped now, then more will happen soon. I have some spares if you get stuck.

Please tell me you removed the center locking pin from the strut that locks the spindle pin from turning.....

Canada =USA in this one case... Now we need detailed pictures of the trans to look for clues to see if its a 280zx or 280z 5 speed, or a roadster transplate or a true non-NorthAm 5 speed.

Dear D&D: Yes they are separate. I've pryed a set off once just to see if I could, as I was painting the panels gray, and didn't want to mask off those tiny strips. they are just a 'U'. Careful replacement was nessessary, and the tips had to be re-crimped to grab again. Go play?

Yes the early ones had that one-screw switch body which is different from the later ones. Buying the entirely new assembly as found by ZCurves will fix the problem. Electrically they are the same. It will mean a new key for you. I think Captain Obvious has a thread recently about taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts. I have an old 1-screw switch in my collection (I check it) if worst comes to worst. Let me know z240@shaw.ca if you need it.

speedo yes for sure, only thing about the tach, if its a three wire, (12v , ground and a single connector from coil -) pretty sure all 260's had switched by then. The connector may differ, but easy to switch the harness from one to the other. Maybe one factor not to like is the lettering font on 77 gauges is different, so they won't match exactly. Both have 280 style dashes so the mounting is identical.

You're in luck, Canuck! I saved a couple from a recent demo, just have to find 'em! Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll stick 'em in an envelope.

Les at classic dastun is the official supplier of the 'right' blue for the block and the 'right' grey for the tail lit finisher/grill/ hub caps. Classic Datsun Motorsports. Suitable 'close enough' substitutes have been discussed here several times. Search for 'duplicolor' along with hub caps or tail light panel or finisher.

Ive done this mod, and if I'm assuming you mean the "chop the lower block bracket to 1.7inch long" mod, the only thing I did poorly the first time was not checking that the cut off face was exactly 90deg to both the mounting face AND the thru hole. Left the alternator a bit crooked. Stuck it on my mill to face it flat and square, but a file and a square does the same thing. Then there was the hunt for the just-right belt, and a bit of 'adjustment' of the upper bracket, but I'm totally happy with the prospect of having an alt that I can replace anywhere anytime if need be.

Now I feel really silly.:paranoid: Talk about assuming something and making the facts fit.. Its your dizzy jamming for sure.... Another lesson in humility...

Makes sense that the tabs have been off for some time. I think its a red herring. If the oil pump failed in the way I'm thinking, ie stuck relief valve, the pressure would spike HIGH, never triggering your alarm. The thing is I can't get past these two points. First the shaft engagement point of the crank drive gear is pretty substantial. And its between the dizzy and oil pump. How does a shaft jammed at the top, with the crank still turning, not destroy/bend/twist the shaft, gear or dizzy? Nothing appears wrong with the dizzy other than the tabs are gone. If those tabs got jammed in somewhere I'de expect some very noticable damage on something in the dizzy. And second, if the oil pump is "fine" and is free to turn, and you lock its drive spindle, is the momentum of the pump and oil enough to twist and shear the drive tab? Doesn't feel right. If the pump is free to spin, then nothing the crank or shaft can do other than stopping dead at 8K RPM would cause that type of damage. I think. And you say the car stalled in the pits. What caused that if the shaft can still turn the dizzy and its still in time (advance tabs being there or not at idle wouldn't matter) unless the gear on the spindle spun on the shaft during/just before the tang twisted off? This is easy to check. Compare the gear position on the busted one to a new one. If it IS spun, it doesn't prove which end of the shaft was "locked" at the point, but without any dizzy damage, and with the force required to cause that twist and shear, I'm strongly suspecting the oil pump end is the culprit. I'm sure you'll figure it out.