zKars

way too late prob, but they are 10x1.25 bolts at the tips and brackets to body

got the app! Thanks Mike! hey where are the pictures?

Well its my possession now. Just strapped it to a trailer. Can't finger out how to add pictures here from my Ipad, no file system to browse... I will try the czcc app. The car is not as good or complete as we'd had hoped. It is, how do you say, in need of a great deal of love.... It is far from a basket case though!

You could try Nissan. Or put an ad on the classifieds here for a complete cross member.

They didn't even have to say that it has a velvet diamond tuck interior, I knew that just by looking at the outside! Again, not my taste, but it looks well done!

Dave: First, my condolences. I respect what you're trying to do for your dad. I'm too far away to be of any help, so, if no one else is able to come in person, you have AT LEAST two alternatives for excellent phone help. The "best" guy is Bruce Palmer of ztherapy, who hangs around here, though you can get him via his website too I'm sure. He'll be the first one to call if he can. Second, call me four oh three six twenty eighty five seventy. I can talk you through it. It's nothing that can't be talked through. And, I know you'll be getting about a hundred offers of help in the next 30 minutes from this group of excellent individuals, so just stayed tuned. Some one will help. Also consider the possibility that its more than just carb adjustment, and there may be little you can do about getting it run for Thursday. You're dad will understand.... God bless Jim

bent one first on the header. put a couple of bolts into each collector and loosely hang it up there to be sure.

Everything on the engine side pulls through into the passenger side. Reverse your thinking.

Well well, the secret is out. Lost 137, wasn't going to let 147 get past me too. I saw the ad almost 36 hours after it as posted, thought for sure it would be gone, but it wasn't. I feel very fortunate. Sorry Phillip! Beer is indeed owed! Your always welcome here, Ross too. I'll post pictures of it once it gets home.

One more test. Car off, put it in first gear, foot off of the clutch. Can you push the truck? If not, then put your foot on the clutch. Can you (someone else, your foot is busy) push the truck now? This test will determine if you are getting clutch release with the pedal. If it does in fact release, then you should be able to shift with the engine running too. It sounds like you are are not getting the clutch to release with the pedal. I assume you see movement of the release arm at the clutch slave when you push the clutch in? About 3/4 inch or so? If you do, then you have the wrong release being sleeve in there, and clutch is never releasing. May have come to that way, or the pivot ball in there is busted. Just some more clues. Good luck!

Its the body mounting points that are shot, not the suspension components that attach to them. All the shiny stuff in the world will not solve the issue. Is this issue with the front diff mount crossmember bolts or the rear hanger plates that come down and support the rear end of the control arms? Either way, you have no choice but to drop everything and evaluate just how bad the rust and damage is. It very likely will require removal and replacement of the frame metal and attachment points. No simple job to get it all back in the right place and strong. Consider this carefully.

You know what's next don't you? Wheels completely flat with EXTRA hidden wheels underneath so it can roll. You wait, its coming. How does that go, "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should"...

Heat created by corrosion on the contacts, both in the fuse box and in the switches. Nothing magical, just lack of moisture seals pretty much everywhere.

Welcome! Did the Datsun Matsuri car show at the Knox mountain hill climb this year spark your Datsun mojo into action? Where did you find your new baby? The show will back next year for sure, be sure to bring that Z! Let us know we can help with anything. (photo courtesy David Myers myautoproject.com)

zcarsource in Phoenix is pretty close. They are a sponser here (banner at the top will flip to them every few refreshes). zspecialties.com in Washington state. The member BURLEIGH here has lots of parts for sale. Send him a PM. There are a couple of members here from Vegas. Do a bit of searching Put an WTB ad in the classifieds Worst comes to worse if yours is just cracked get it welded. Worst comes to worse comes to worse I can send you one or send me yours I'll fix it, even if a corner is broken out of it.

510 good, 210 not the same.

I hardly wait to get home and test my spare T/C rods for straightness! What if they are all "bent" exactly the same amount and in the same orientation? I'm willing to bet you can jack up on these all day long and, how shall I say this, not bend them any differently or "more" than they are bent now? Now if they do have a factory curvature, it would have to be in the horizontal plane (when mounted), since they are not "left and right" designated. Or would it not matter if one was bowed "up" and the other bowed "down" when mounted? So much to consider, so little time....

If the rear elec. pump is not working, I'de try just bypassing it first. It may be quite a restriction to the suction side of the mechanical pump if its stopped. Does sound like your running out of fuel when the demand is high during racing (foot on floor I assume). The rear electric pump has has an inline fuse under the dash onthe passenger side right behind/above the console/radio area. There is one for the pump and other for the defrost. There are NOT in the regular fuse box of 10. Might as well check those first before doing anything!

The proper thread is 3/16 tubing, with 10mm x 1.00mm nuts, using double SAE flare. Not a lot of metric choices to choose from, just being sure. Don't worry about getting the exact shape or length, just go buy a 12" piece (maybe two, one for practice) from any auto store, thread in one end to the caliper, snug it down and then bend it in a loop until it fits into the hose end, without kinking and clear of the caliper and strut tube. Not much to get in the way unless you get to close to the wheel well or something. Leave the hose end loose from its mounting point so you have wiggle room to make it thread into place without having to have the exact shape. Wear gloves and bend it around your fingers, a little at a time. Don't be afraid to use wide pliers to help if you pad the jaws. Practice with a piece of thick wire to see what path you need to take to get it into both ends without getting it too long or crazy but with only wide radius bends. Have your son help with the bleeding process by pressing on the brake! You'll get him to school in the Z one way or the other!

Look carefully at the water pump cavity on the one your swapping in. Make sure there is no sign of wear, scraping damage or a rough pitted surface on the turbine water flow surfaces. Pump efficiency is determined by fit and close clearances in this area. Examine it closely.I and others have chased cooling problems that were finally resolved by replacing the front cover. Not the first place people check, its even hard to see when you the pump off. Search here and hybridz for "cavitation" to learn more.

Seems you found the only pot hole in Houston. That's not easy to do. Must have been a real nice one. Love my azc control arms.... And there's no way a garage that clean gets used for anything serious and I have spare controls arms if you need one. Some may not even be bent!

I think you might have a hard time getting a zerk to put grease in all the places you want it in these bushings. Easy to get grease to the outer shell/bushing interface but its not going to make it to the inner bushing/sleeve interface. There's no side containment... I did put zerks on my front sway bar shells to see if that helps down the road. Thanks to another member for that suggestion Somewhere on suspension.com they mention rifling the inner bushing using a tap to create a spiral channel to hold grease on the inner bushing/sleeve interface. This should keep grease in that space for a long time.

I'm currently hunting for new tires too. Tire rack has a limited selection of 225-50-15 that are not track tires, but if you look for 45 series 15's there are a few more to choose from. Just a hint for use "15 inch" die hards.... And I'm looking again today, and the list is much shorter..... Now what was I looking at???

Small tap? Bah! Put the nut on the end of it, make sure the nut is fully engaged, but NOT down tight, leave room for it to move, then HIT IT, square, with a 2 lb sledge. It will pop right out. You can also use a 5/16 pin punch to hit it (from the threaded end). There is just nothing subtle about dealing with these nasty notorius parts.

Oh you poor guy. You are in for some fun! Search the site for "spindle pin" and you will have hours of reading on the topic and find many solutions. You are not alone. The good news is when you are done, you will be part of a special group of those of us that have been throught it and survived. All the best.