zKars

70-78 fenders are all interchangable. Frank may be thinking about 280zx fenders which have nothing in common with S30 fenders.

If there is additional components on the speedo, would be simple to transfer the sensor package on the back to the new one.

Totally. Functionally in every way. Same mounting. Connectors are the same too. There was a font change on the gauge faces, but I think that happened sometime in 76-77 transistion.

Don't know if its in your budget, but replacing your old belts with some new ones is likely a wize safety move. There are several aftermarket belt manufactures. MSA has a set from one of them. Worst comes to worst I may have something tucked away....

Some one actually did a smoke pressure test in their Z (fill interior with smoke, seal and pressurize, watch where it comes out) they were so desparate to find the leak. There were leaking body panel seams in the rear of his car. I can vouch for that one on my 73. I'm in the midst of stripping the undercarriage and now that the undercoating is gone, there are a couple of obvious seam seal "boo boo's" from the factory where the goop was left a little short on a couple of seams. Nice... Here's my list of where to look, and places that need attention (and that don't) -Tail light gaskets -Antenna drain grommet and the antenna mounting hole itself. -Hatch seal weatherstrip. -Gas fill hose grommet in hatch deck -Vapour line grommet next to and ahead of the filler tube. -Gas tank vapor line grommets at the rear that pass through the hatch floor. -Drain hole plugs in spare tire well -Hatch hinge boots -Rear marker lights. Rubber seal on the body, cracked/loose lenses? -The hatch is full of holes that can allow outside air into the void within the hatch structure. The only barrier to the interior of the car that is inside the perimeter of the hatch seal itself, is the glass weatherstrip and the rectangular vinyl trim panel that mounts with 10 rivets/screws. It's old piece of dry crumbled foam seal tape is not doing its job and this panel if very often warped making a seal pretty tough. This panel should be replaced or the seal re-newed. You guys with the early vented hatch panels that aren't perfect are nearly screwed here.... Do not worry about the two 1 inch holes w/rubber plugs on either side of the hatch latch or the dovetails on the sides. With the hatch latch being a big open hole, their condition is irrelevant. Concentrate on the hatch trim panel and the glass weather strip. I think the likelyhood of any of these being the culprit is at a maximum at the very rear near the exhaust side, and falls rapidly as you move to the right and toward the front of the car. Even things like the rear strut mounting site at top of strut towers don't have any real seal to the outside world. And I should mention the possibility of a leak further up. Small engine bay exhaust leaks and imperfectly sealed holes in the firewall... Say no more say no more... And lets not even mention all the rust related voids that are lurking in places you'de rather not know about..... Ewwwww....

and that diagram is labelled wrong! The one labelled "ground wire from ECU" is a +12v connection, not ground!!!

Just in case there is confusion, the reaction disk is a little round chuck of black rubber. Sure you're seeing what you think you're seeing? Take it out and confirm, and then glue it to the end of the steel disk on the end of the rod from the master. Your decription is pretty classic "no reaction disk" so I'm asking silly questions to be sure before you look else where...

The automatic air system depends on this little fan to draw cabin air over its adjacent temperature sensor to decide how to manage the overall cabin air flow and temperature. About the only way to have it work without its fan is to reposition that sensor inside the cabin somewhere where its exposed to ambient air temperture, that is NOT affected by the sun, open windows, the direct output of the AC vents, that kind of thing That is why they buried it in the dash and brought cabin ambient air into it via a fan, to avoid all the interfering temperature sources. I'de just let it dangle down in dash, just above your feet, but not low enough to be blown on by any fan driven air. Might have to experiment a bit.

our friends at Copper Bussman seem to have a few solutions, including this one "33700 Series PRM power-relay and PFM power-fuse modules support high current and are housed in a compact sealed body. " http://www2.electronicproducts.com/Relay_and_fuse_modules_support_high_current_apps-article-csrr18-apr2007-html.aspx

Sounds like you distorted the holes in the alternator. Start by removing the alternator to get it out of the way, and making sure the bolts still thread into the cast piece on the block. If not you'll need a tap to clean them up. You didn't break one off did ya? If the bolts still thread in nice, the use a drill bit to open up the holes in the alt to allow you to enough clearance to get the bolts back in Of course take a real close look at the alternator and make there is no damage.

There is a site that shows the unique case indicators that show if its a 77-78 5sp, or one of the two zx 5 speeds. dual or one-sided muffler hanger castings back at the tail, and long or short ears where the shifter pin goes through. Dual muffler bracket w/ short shifter ears is the 77-78 5sp I believe. Single sided muffler hangers are all zx, long ears make it the 82-83 5sp. (T5 not included in this discussion). This does not help you understand if your car came with a factory 5, just clarifies the origin of the trans you have in there now. Hope this helps

The console bolts (the three in the rear that go in vertically) are 5x0.8, the two glove box lock bolts are 4x0.7mm. You will need to run that tap through with some lube and clean them up, thats all. Hopefully they aren't beyond repair. Wood screws, ouch.....

There is at least one other Z owner on the islands, he's pretty helpful. Trying to remember his name....

Mostly experience. I also like the game of "show me a bolt and I'll tell you where it came from and what year Z its off of." but that's just me..... Another approach might be to take the dizzy with you to the bolt store and start trying this and that until you find bolts that fit. And SteveJ is dead right, a thread gauge is a wonderful thing. Just remember 12x1.25, 10x1.5 (engine block), 10x1.25 (suspension), 8x1.25, 6x1.0, 5x0.8, and 4x0.7 make up 98% of the bolts thread specs on a Z. What varies is length, presence of a shoulder, strength (grade), head,type, finish, and at least 10 other things.... Happy thread hunting!

Those do not appear to be the classic zg flares. Much too small and mounted quite low. My guess is custom molded in flares. It does look pretty nice, very subtle...

The larger one that holds the dist. adjustment plate to the base on the block is 6mm x 1.00 mm, about 15mm long. The smaller one that goes upward, into the body of the dist is 5mm x 0.8mm, about 10mm long. Nothing fancy, common sizes.

There are at least three z owners in your area that I know of. You are not alone!

ZDogg: Welcome back to the Z life! As you have found out, resistance is futile. No sense fighting it, just go with it. There are many like minded zealots in your area, come out to the next z club meeting, we' love to meet ya! Drop me a line and I'll hook ya up. Either Leave a private message here (PM) or z240@shaw.ca

Tip wise, about the only thing I can add is don't forget the two small 6mm bolts that go vertically into the front cover through the two tabs at the front of the head. The one by the fuel pump is pretty obvious but its friend by the dizzy is hiding pretty good, especially if its caked with gunk. And don't forget to put them back in.

No need to pull the valve cover. Open the oil cap and take a look for the spray bar. And for confirmation, get the cam lobe thats right there pointing up and look for a hole in tip of the lobe face.

The mechanical fuel pump is the fault. weak when cranking, takes forever to pull fuel from the tank. This is likely made made worse by a weak check valve in the pump that lets the fuel drain back. The pump works adequately when the rpms are up.

Most 3mm bolts are 0.5 mm pitch. I have a couple of old grills that I haved used for parts in the past, I'll look and see if I have any of those bolts. Do you need the ones in the center or at the ends? An alternative may be to get some 1/8" brass or soft steel rod from a hobby store or such and thread the ends for #2-54 nuts or something like that? Maybe someone like McMaster car has 3mm all-thread!!!! just checked. Sure as heck McMaster car does have 3mm all thread in steel, brass and SS none the less!!!. 1 meter long in brass is $12.69. That place is amazing.... Just search for all thread, then look at the low strength. They probably have it grade 10.9

Never seen them advertised. Only ever seen two pair on real cars, both 75-78 280Z here in Canada. Good luck.

A reliable source for these things at last supercedes any rule breaking! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Might want to put a For sale ad in the classified section, just because... We don't have a vendor forum like hybridz... Don't forget to tell them too...

the key code is also located stamped into the passenger door lock cylinder (assuming it hasn't been changed...). Not the easiest to get to, but good to remember!