zKars

availability is down, hence the price goes up. There is a recent thread about this. Just search for lash pads. There is a guy making custom ones to your spec. Brian at zccjdm.com I believe. Just checked the classifieds, never guess whats for sale...

It is 1/8" BSPT and it is the stock location for the electrical oil pressure sending unit. There is a yellow/white wire with a female bullet connector that connects to it from the harness across from it near the pass. side wheel well. I a bit confused by your need to plug it as it sounds like you'll be left with no oil pressure gauge. Do you need a stock dash gauge as well then?

The real long term rust problem is in trapped moister in the crevices where you cannot clean. I had a really nice rust free 240 door once, that I decided was an excellent skin donor to a later 280 door. I carefully ground off the edge all around, the skin popped off nice as pie. (The skin is wrapped around the door frame, then spot welded on the inside surface). Guess what I found on my "rust free" door trapped between the skin and inner door frame surface, all the way around.. Significant, penetrating rust...... Enough that it was iffy if I could weld that back on without making a nasty mess.... Moral of the story? Best you can do is dry it, and try to get as much penetrating fluid like John C suggesting into every corner rather than trying to paint anything over it. Its a lost cause, only delaying the inevitable if anything.

Should be easy to check run out with the tire/wheel mounted. Jack it up so you can spin the wheel by hand. Rig up a stationary stick with a pointy tip that is sitting on the ground (fixed point in space) that JUST touches the outside of the wheel rim at one spot (not the tire), then rotate the wheel by hand and watch the spacing between the stick tip and the wheel. It may take a few attempts with the tip starting at different spots until you find the "high" side, but it will become obvious if that space doesn't stay constant all the way around that you have a bent axle. It might also be a very bad bearing that is not supporting the axle allowing it wobble as it turns. THe above measurement may not show that up. Take care, if the axle is bent, it may be close to breaking.

The head is usually the first thing that needs work (can anyone spell valve seals??), well before the block, which is very very strong and long lasting. A compression test and leak off test will tell many tales. If you put most of those miles on, and did proper timely maintenance throughout, its got a long life yet. If you just can't resist, refresh the head and leave the bottom end alone.

Green/black on the left, Green center, Green/Red on the right. Hope that clears it up.

This the correct location of the filler flange for 240.

I have used #6 wood screws, 1 inch long as a good replacement. They are the correct diameter, ie they will not split the fragile plastic posts, but the thread pitch is more coarse than the stock screws. A sheet metal screw of the same size woukd be a better choice. Take the top half with you and find a screw size that seems to fit.

Makes me want one of those stick-on sun visor strips that Arne had made a while ago, but an extra long one, with Squinty eyes on it rather than "240Z" or "DATSUN"!! And a smiley mouth mask for the rad opening/valance too! Pixar is working its marketing magic on me apparently.... MUST GO BUY 'CARS' merchandise NOW......

Holy smoke! Jim here from the Calgary Z club! Michael, we have to get together and see this thing! Congrats on the find! Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca and we'll exchange phone info. I can help with all your mechanical issues too. Lots of experience in town to help with just about anything! Any chance of bringing it the Edmonton Z club show and shine this weekend on Sunday? http://www.edmontonzcarclub.com/pages/main.html

Take yours apart and clean it. You'll be amazed at the crap in it. If that doesn't do it I have a couple of spares.

MSA has them. Bit pricey. The center pin is 1/8 in diameter, hobby stores have plastic stock. I'm a fan of replacing them once and for all with insert nuts and 8-32 machine screws. Mcmaster Carr has black ones with big heads. Cuts down on squeeks and never lose those rotten pins again!

One important detail is the cleanliness and smoothness of the surfaces where the o-ring seats, and the oring itself. Do all you can to clean everything and inspect the o-ring for damage. No power tools, just fingers and sandpaper or steel wool. Next is the pressure applied by the ring, and the centering of the ring as you tighten it. Is the ring rusty or corroded?

Those clips are not very springy, unlike true C-clips. More like a stiff band that is just bent into place. Once you get them off, use pliers to bend them back into place in their slots. I actually replaced mine with a some common generic size of eternal c-clip. Now as to getting them off, put the arm in a vise, and use two smallish flat blade screw drivers to push the opposing tips of the clip apart. Or one flat blade of "just" the right width that you can use it as a wedge between the two tips.

The trick is getting enough heat, but not too much.... Hair dryers are just barely enough, propane torch is too much (and there's that open flame thing...) , but I find paint stripper heat guns (hair dryers for bald men!) to be the best. Hot enough to burn me, but not hot enough to melt the hose unless you leave it on one spot for a LONG time...

55415-E4100 or E4101 or E4102 or N4301 is the last update in the fiche. Now get back to work! (me too...)

With all those RT mounts now in use, there must be one heck of a pile of used diff straps out there somewhere. I know I have quite a collection now. If only I could think of a new use for them... Hmmm. Miniature summer tank treads, cat toys you toss that they love to chase (for really tough, big cats, or cats you don't like...), Bracelets for gorillas, backyard swing seats for really small kids, Help me out here people, surely there must be more ideas out there!!!

This is a pain in the you know what on some struts. I've had to weld a fat 1x1 steel rectangular bar to gland nut and use 36 inches + of cheater bar to get one set to break free. This even after several days of penetrant soaking and heat treatment. I just hate heating shocks though, definite explosion risk there.... Sounds like you're having fun! I'm waiting for the post about your spindle pin removal!

Bigger hammer! Do NOT damage the end of the stub axle or the threads whatever you do. Which makes it hard to use a bigger hammer of course. I thread the nut back on reversed, to leave the flanged end out, put it on all the way (all threads engaged), then use a chunk of wood between the hammer (2 lb) and the stub end. Check that the nut still threads off easy with each blow to check for damage. Otherwise it will cost you at LEAST a 18 x 1.5mm tap... The "official" technique is to use a slide hammer to pull it out from the wheel flange side. You'll need a press to remove and replace the outer bearing from the stub once its out. One of my favorite jobs! Hope you have a 250 ft-lb torque wrench too!

Ok, I'll help. I describe the mounting differences The mounting to the car varies by year. 240 seats have studs that mount through holes in the floor supports. You attach with nuts. 280 seat all use bolts through the track frames that go into trapped nuts in the floor supports. 77-78 seats have different rear mount locations, they have vertical bolts, earlier 280 rear frames have angled tabs at the rear, and the bolts go in at ~15deg angle to horizontal. As far as 260 seat tracks go, I not sure if the early ones mount like 240 and later like 280, or if they are all 75-76 280 like. All seat bottoms from all years bolt to all the sliders. Its just getting the right sliders to bolt to your floor supports that counts. Hope that helps.

And still no one answers the poor man's question. There are two holes each side on the bottom of the rad support, about even with the inner fenders left and right, where the hooks mount.

no glue needed, just press it on. Squeeze the pinch a bit if you don't like how it stays in place. Make sure it fits the corners tightly as you put it on, not after its all on.

They are being made custom now by Brian (azcarbum) on hybrid. This is his site. http://www.zccjdm.com

Very common problem with "certain" cams. Send your stock Nissan cam to Delta Cam in Washington state for a regrind. The do a basic regrind for $75 bucks and rocker arm resurface for $3.75 each. I sent them two cams and 36 rockers and they did them for $3/ rocker and $55 per cam! Fantastic fast service, turned them around in about 4 days. Highly recommended. search for oil additives and recommendations and cam wear problems. Been discussed many times.