zKars

Zedy: Listen to Arne and Darrel. You cannot get heat from the dash vents regardless of control settings. They only work when "Air" is in "Vent" and this connects you the outside. check page 13 of the supplemental chassis Manual of the FSM. I have a picture of it attached. You're inability to move the slider to "ROOM" is a problem with the cable, the slider mechanism, or the connection of the cable to the flapper doors on the left side foot well heat outlets, which is what that control moves. It just closes the two external flap doors at the base of the unit which pushes all heat to the defrost vents when in the DEF position. I also attached a picture of the control cables on the left side from the 76 manual (very similar) for clarification. You haven't somehow connected the defrost air ducts to the vent ducts have you? Or perhaps the central flapper valve in the heater box (under the #6) in the picture) is/was partly open allowing heated air to get into dash vent system. I willing to bet you believe you once got hot air from these vents and are now convinced you can again. It should not work like that. Hope this helps. Jim

The hazard switch on a 73 is the green faced pull knob below the lighter. Earlier Z's have a paddle switch in the same spot 260-280 have the hazard toggle switch on the console below the radio. Switch contacts in the hazard switch are often the source of these problems, especially on the 72 and prior switches. Spend time tracing that diagram. Be systematic with your checking.

I see no reason to run the fusible link wire all the way to the trunk to get to the battery. Under the hood, just pretend the starter terminal where the battery line connects, is the +side of the 'battery' and connect the fusible link there. Other than that, be sure to get an EXCELLENT secure, clean (paint and dirt free) ground point in the trunk to frame steel and use the same gauge wire as the +cable going up front. Protect it against corrosion so it keeps working well for you. Others have fit an optima in the stock position and been pleased with the result, there are posts about how they did it here somewhere, do a little searching. Jim

If it smells like a duck and quacks like a duck, its a VR for sure....

I am pleased in this case to be taught something new! Who knew 3 wire tachs were available in 73! And that plug is an in-line 3 pin! Unlike the square 4 pin earlier ones, certainly nothing like the 8 pin 280 style! Nothing like that in the FSM, eh? And you wonder why you have to carefull when getting a replacement dash harness! Now, how are they wired? Is that one terminal routed to the coil negative side with an inline 2.2k resistor like all 280 (maybe I should watch my usage of 'all' !!!) The presence or lack of the need for that resistor will make a difference when using a later tach for Dave if we can't find him an official correct 3 wire 240 tach. Good stuff gang!

Those wing nuts are a beech to crack by hand. Take 3/8 drive, 7/16 6pt socket, and cut a slot down into to it with a dremel wheel, wide enough that would fit over the wings. Then use that over the wing nuts with a 1/4 drive handle and adapter to break the wing nuts free. Last resort, but it works. One of those tools we should have as a mail out loner like the spinder pin puller.... Good luck. With strong fingers you can do it without. Jim

I have been through this a few times. Heat is answer to soften the tubing, but it can still be very tough to do. Lubrication is good idea as well. Some nice lithium based grease would do fine. Rotating the tank and filler neck as you push them together is the other trick as mentioned above. What you need to end up with, is this. You see two small ridges that encircle the filler neck near the end, about 3/8"" apart about 1/4 from the end of the tube? This is where the clamp goes, between the ridges. So you job is to get that area over the tank neck completely, so that tightening the clamp secures it around the neck of the tank inlet. It will eventually work its way off if the clamp ends up overalapping the end of the tank inlet tube. Capish? Patience, a good hair dryer, and strength will see you through. Jim

Oh yes, did this a long time ago with a Painless wiring fan switch. Just plain don't like the rod in the rad fins type. Its just asking for trouble. Just have to be careful with how far in the sender sits inside the thermostat housing so as not to interfere withe thermostat, and when drilling out and tapping it for 3/8 NPT or whatever size sender you use. Go slow and tap a little at a time, aluminum likes to crack. Another option is to use a 280z/zx housing which has more spots in the front for sensors if you need to run the wiring out the front instead of the side (depends on what fancy carbs/EFI etc stuff might be in the way. Jim

Z-luke: Welcome to the world of the Z. You will find all that you need here. Read as much as you can and search for specific topics that relate to your needs. Let us know if you have any questions about your new friend. Us Z club guys way out west of you here in Calgary and Edmonton are close at hand for advice and guidance as well. Let us know what you need. calgaryzclub.ca and edmontonzcarclub.com Oh, let me close with : "Go Riders!!" Jim

Splendid idea! Put me down for one as well please Dave! (BTW just out of pure courtesy, I might ask RoostMonkey if he minds if you do this. All legality aside, if it were me, I'de appreciate being asked. We are one big happy family after all!) Jim

Seems to be: 14710-N4301 Assy- Valve EGR Control California Manual 14710-N4311 Assy- Valve EGR Control California Auto 14719-N3301 Gasket - EGR C/V They check out as real at http://www.nissanparts.cc Hope that helps. This is from the pdf of the fiche that I purchased on line here some years ago. The carfiche site is a tad "trying" to use.... Pieces Jim

I have one drivers side panel. Vinyl and hardboard backing are in fantastic shape, chrome is decent, just one or two small area of peel. I have this one overall picture attached, send me an e mail to z240 @ shaw . ca and I'll send some close ups of the chrome issues. Asking $75 + shipping. Jim

PM sent about a battery tray. Jim

This is the only link I have that seems to have a bit of a selection in wiring styles and markings. Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc http://www.riwire.com/ I have not purchased anything from them. If you do, let us know how they are to deal with. Jim

Sounds like quite the project. If I have any input is it that you will need a "better" ECU system than the Nissan ECU with "Greddy E-Manage Ultimate" system to tune with. Not that I know anything about Greddy's system. Most the world over at hybridz.org seem to be Megasquirt or Wolf3D fans, but there are more and more options out there everyday. You also will get more enthusiastic and detailed feedback from the gang over at hybridz.org. There is plenty of interest here, but you will get more of what I believe you are looking for over at hybridz. All the best. Jim

Alas I came up empty. Must have recycled them. I have a zx crazy man w/parts in Edmonton. I will ask about rear calipers and let you know. Jim

Z's on da noggin! Dave! I may have a set of rear 82 zx calipers kicking around, let me look tonight! I suppose you want them in usable condition too... Jim

The brake master! Of course, but not the clutch master. Different bolt pattern on the firewall. And the inspection light! Of course! Excellent IdahoKidd. The rad will work as well, but may hang a bit low for comfort on 240z.

This has been discussed at length. A search will bring you many suggestions. I have found heat to be the secret, its just how much you need, and where, and a propane torch may not be enough. Consentrate on the drum around the hub, rather than the hub itself. It seems the corrosion between the face of the hub and the back of the drum is the killer, not so much there circle where the hub sticks out. One session with a puller resulted in the drum coming off, but in pieces.... Do not give up! You're better than some lousy rust! Jim

Really they only have compatible drive lines (engine, trans, diff). SOME brake parts have been "grafted" on. Yes 280zx NA dizzy is a common and popular upgrade to all S30 engines. All ZX wheels bolt on to S30 hubs. They share no body, glass, interior, lights etc. Ok, the 7" round headlight bulbs fit, that's about it. Anyone else think of something you can use directly as a bolt-on that works immediately other than the shift knob? Jim

Mr.Tamura did so hard on finalizing S30's body surface, he told me he still has feelings in his hand every surface of her(S30),in his word,he had spent very hot and hard time with her every day and night. Every time he touched her, she told him that places where she wanted to be more beautiful! Mr.Tamura said it is like an old craftsman of Buddha statue,he did not creat it, Buddha itself... Does anything more need to be said?

Looks like you have to get a whole new pulley with bearing. Tomorrow I will look at the one spare I have and let you know what condition it is in. Got something to trade? Jim

Davis: I have a couple of decent spares out here in Calgary if Nissan Canada comes up dry. Drop me a email or PM when you get a chance. Jim

I have done two vintage air installs. One in a 77 (friends), then mine in a 73. Total labor was 70 hours on the 77, and close to 60 on my 73. This does not include trips to the store for parts, or trip to the AC shop for hose make up and an eventual system charge at the end. Dash comes out, create mount for the underdash unit, create a mount for the compressor, fabricate and mount a nice place for the controls where the old heater controls were, wiring, air duct make up etc, etc, etc. Everything done right, looks and runs great. Time ads up real quick. My next one will take 10% less time, but that is about it. Everything is fab and fit, fab and fit. There are threads on here with others experiences, and somewhere I posted a document that describes the full details of the 77 install. I have the doc for the 73 too if you need it. It is not a small job. Let me know if I can help with anything. Jim

Dustin Here is a picture of the brackets and the dimensioned drawing. Now if the printing was only clear enough to read.... Jim