zKars

Monkey early bottom, non monkey top. Poor mounting system often results in very loose shifter shaft after the fork spreads and the pin wears out. Reminds us of walking Gibbon monkey with floppy arms in the air. Makes changing gears feel like a suggestion rather than a definite answer

And YES they have the other “glass” as well! (Bottom of the linked page above)

I was just googling FW241 for a buddy that needs a windshield and what should appear? https://www.plastics4performance.com/datsun-240z-hardcoated-lexan-polycarbonate-front-windshield

There are SO many great brake kits out there now, I would no longer deal with the Maxima/240sx caliper options. My experience with buying Rockauto calipers was so disappointing that I said never again. Ebrake cable attaching is a nightmare at best. The BEST experience with rear disk brake kits lately is with DPRacing, though admittedly for 510. Quality of brackets, outstanding. Quality of Ebrake adaption cable etc was nothing short of astoundingly good. They list kits for Z and 510 with plenty of options. They were all based on separate brake and ebrake calipers, all from Wilwood. Just my two cents. This is some examples. They feature kits for small wheels too, front and rear. I think I have the 401-9520 rear kit for 13” wheels. They do fit 14” ZX alloys, but for 13, would need aftermarket open barrel wheels, but they would fit

240

I have a set of them. I bought their whole kit to check it out. Especially the long un-available moose-stash bar bushings. The rack bushings feel very “Stock” in my hand. I have not installed them yet.

You’ve had this glass in the car before the restoration and the window worked correctly then? Or is the car new to you and never used the window before? Fully agree to put the frame back in as well, since the back of the glass rides in the frame at the rear. The picture of the glass out of the car showing the two roller tracks tells me this window is from a 240, and I know that using 240 glass in a 280 will cause the “fall off the track” issue. The location and length of the two roller tracks is slightly different between the two. They changed the regulator in the 280 as well to offset it further into the door. The way I quickly tell them apart is by looking at the front track. If it is butted up to the frame so that the roller cannot escape out the front, then it’s 240 glass. This appears to be the case, see my red circle. 280 windows allow the roller to enter or leave all four ends of the two tracks. They are also slightly different lengths.

Great topic, great read, lots of stuff I am happy to learn about. Thanks fellow Canucks. “En Grand VItesse Avec La Datsun 240-Z” Magnifique!

I have a couple dozen of these, somehow they all migrated to my basement making them hard to find for the rest of you. Sorry about that. In the USA, I'm betting Sal Ceja has plenty and all plated purdy. He lurks on FB in S30 Life or similar.

I’ve always seen the same color on the grill no matter where I look so I assume the grills were painted everywhere in the same gray. Never seen any hint of old plating on those long bolts.

Fiche details about liner parts

Somewhere in the 260/280 range, they added entire front wheel well liners in plastic. I imagine they install where you indicated. There are two versions. Not aware there were any such thing on 240’s (all North American references)

Those are not related to the lock or door mechanism. As noted they are meant to accept a screw for something. Look a bit small for the M6 bolts the license plate bolts need. The bent arm on the back of the lock cylinder shown “used” to have a little rubber sleeve on the necked down area. Bit of noise abatement. Not needed, you could put a short bit of very small heat shrink on there if you like.

Can you post a picture of the thing you are looking for from the other side please. I can rummage through the horde…

Well, “Velly Intellesting”…. The back of the two plugs is usually a 71-72 location for the vacuum fitting out to the brake booster. Only the early balance tubes had that fitting going out the end horizontally like yours. What I see is a bit strange. The hose fitting in the back of your balance tube with the hose that I assume goes to your brake booster, looks suspiciously like a PCV valve….. Can you take the hose off and show a pic with the whole hose going over to the booster? You have the PCV in the regular place in the center of the balance tube where it belongs. I cannot figure out what the other plug is meant for quickly. Couldn’t see any picture on Google with it used. Your balance tube is NOT the later 73-74 style for sure

Nice! Feels to good to solve some problems and make progress

Lube the liveing daylights out of it, especially the outside bit that comes in contact with the striker. Operate by hand until it works like butter. Alignment wise, the C shaped opening into the striker where the door latch has to fit through as you close it is fairly close tolerance, as long as it go more or less straight into the striker you have that part right. It’s the in-out alignment that determines how your door fit flush wise. Will have to weather strip on to complete that alignment. And then if your door hinge pins are sloppy the door might have to be lifted a bit to get into the latch cleanly.

Parts of the fancy electric fuel pump cut off sensor wiring and relay sub harness specific to the 73. There is a thread on here somewhere that explains it all. Basically they wanted to turn the pump off in case the engine quit, so had to sense that, via alternator voltage and oil pressure?

Coincidently, working on a different throttle cable arrangement but with the same Lokar cable. Here is my solution to hold the fitting on the cable end. An M4 grub screw through the thick hex part of the fittingl This bites the sleeve below. You also need a way to bond the sleeve to the braided cable sheath. I found this one slipped down the cable! I use some UV cure resin.

Of the two, only one works. And it looks pretty much new. It's here if you need it.

I have a couple. Will test what shape they are in.

Absolutely. And parts are NLA to rebuild. I would not hesitate to buy one of the excellent reproduction racks from technotoytuning. Looks 100% stock and they are new new new. They were on sale just a while ago, $495USD I believe.

Ok, 14 years ago is making me feel older than I am. Thanks for digging that back up. I have forsaken the Kia strips for a McMaster Carr near equivalent. I buy this stuff by the 100ft rolls and have installed plenty on local cars for several years with happy customers. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3984/1120A822 Latest idea (So far untested…) is to replace the front vertical section of that strip with one with a smaller bulb. This might help the initial tightness and a bit thick WS that makes the doors hard to close for a while. The binding we all hate is from the front vertical area of the door. I can confirm this from observation. Apparently the OEM seals were thinner in this area.

Maybe these are a bit more economical shall we say if you are not concerned about originality in this application https://belmetric.com/m5-5-pan-phillips-tapping-steel-zinc-plated-din-7981-c/?sku=MSM5.5X16 I’m not positive if these are the exact correct size (they have many other sizes), and you have to provide a flat washer, but they will serve the purpose.

Fried random ground wires are often caused by bad ground connections to the frame and battery. Current will find a path if you don’t have a low resistance path where you intend. Imagine starter level current that can’t use the battery cable but uses that ground wire instead. ZZZZZZZ Start with the fat black negative battery cable inspection and cleanup (both ends) and the body ground between the battery and the firewall. Then the engine harness ground screw on the frame across from the starter. Then the ground connection on the back of the alternator.