zKars

And while I'm thinking about it.... I mentioned earlier about the possible wisdom of put the 62mm front counter shaft bearing in your FS5W71B transmission. I must mention that it will then require two additional items other than the bearing. The front cover plate for the C trans must be used as the recess in the back is sized for the larger bearing. It ain't cheap either. $99 from https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-series-transmission-front-bearing-retainer-original-equipment-fits-nissan-84-4-cyl-cars-trucks/ Aha! they have an aftermarket one as well, cheap. Sure, an ambitious (cheap?) guy could hog out the cover to fit the larger bearing too... This also means you will need a bearing shim for the C trans as well. Different thicknesses are available. There is also a tiny detail about the C bearing being 17mm thick vs the B bearing being 16mm thick. Some case material may have to be removed around the bearing just like you do with a full C type conversion, maybe somewhat less.

Sorry about the lack of updates, but Christmas and family stuff keeps getting in the way. Still haven't tried my hand at making a 62 mm hole out of a 56mm hole. Received the BK104WS trans rebuild kit from transmissionpartsdistributors.com today, finally. Got to say first their customer service is poor. Actually totally lacking. tracking showed they made the label on Dec 8th 2 days after I put the order in, then nothing changed on tracking until the 21, when it actually shipped, and got here on the 24th! (just now). USPS/Canada Post rocks to do this in three days at this time of year. I emailed once and phoned once during the Dec 8-21 gap and never received an email or phone call back. Chances are they were waiting for parts to come in from somewhere. Would have been nice to let me know that. But the thing showed up. And the contents are EXACTLY the same, part for part, as what I received from drivetrain.com. Only difference is the price. $135 from drivetrain, $78 from transmissionpartsdistributors. Both identical $40 shipping fee. So if you have 3 weeks to wait, then TPD is the obvious choice of vendor.

Merry Christmas! And thank you so much to all the delivery drivers for Fedex, Canada Post, UPS, Purolator, DHL etc that I have met in the past year!

Santa can dig one up. PM me.

If that turns out to be difficult, I’ll settle for a high resolution picture of the bottom of a filthy rusty thick undercoating covered Z applied to the underside of the coffin lid. Leave me a wire brush, scraper and propane torch so I have something to do for all eternity.

Ok, got a part today that is good news and confirms shift fork compatibility AND availability. One more Fs5W71B saved from the scrap heap. 32811-58S10 is the 3/4 shift fork from a Fs5W71C transmission. It is a usable replacement for both the 1-2 and 3-4 shift fork in FS5W71B with aluminum forks, and would also replace the 4 sp version metal forks. One tiny snag. The roll pin hole in the C and B type 5sp forks are larger than the 4 sp forks. If you break a 4 sp fork, you will need to drill the rod roll pine hole out to 0.195 or 15/64. A number 8 drill bit is good enough. Let me also repeat that the C type 1-2 shift fork will NOT WORK in the B types, it fits a larger diameter selector ring.

It is foolish to assume the balls have no play, very good point. I shall measure a fresh and old one and see what deflection I find.

The Nissan bearing is actually a light press fit. You can't push it through with your hand, but a very light rubber hammer can tap it through, if you keep it square to the bore. Remember when you put the case back on over the bearings they have to fit "just so", to allow them to be both properly and snugly located, and loose enough to allow you to push the case over them without a big hammer. I'll have to practice to see if the bearing will press through easily with the push from the mill quill or if it hangs up. Being a bearing, the middle will rotate with the cutter head, the OD will just be a stationary guide that gets pressed through. All has to be pretty smooth to feed the cutter down with good control and slow smooth action. Might have to sand just a tiny bit off the bearing OD to get a slightly looser fit. Capt'n is saying "just center the dang cutter over the hole with the Co-ax like we talked about and stop getting fancy!" but I have fear I haven't tested yet. With working down inside the bell housing, both seeing the dial gauge and swapping from the center finder to the cutter head may prove to be a challenge given the constraints of quill plunge depth (5"), different mandrels lengths on the two things, and clearance/vision. One thing I haven't said is my mill is more of a very heavy duty drill press. The one thing I can't do with it is move the entire head up or down in perfect straight line. The head, once you back off the lock down to allow it be moved up or down, can rotate on the column very easily, so there is no simple way of keeping the exact X/Y location. I have to work within the 5" quill plunge to get everything done. Should be playing this game today. Will take some pics and let you know how it goes.

I too was concerned about that amount of cut, but it will be hard to adjust my welded cutter head. That is partly why I chose the index bit style cutter. It cuts aluminum like proverbial butter. I’ll cut very slowly. Thinking back to Philip's early idea of a dual concentric hole cutter, the inner one guiding the outer cutter by riding in the existing hole, I’m now thinking about making my own cutter head with a 22mm dowel on the bottom that mounts the stock ‘B’ 56mm bearing. Let the bearing ride in the existing hole to guide the cutter set out at 62mm. Maybe I’m getting carried away. Yeah, that’s new...

And some good news tonight about the issue that started this thread, the trans that wouldn’t shift into 5th. It was in fact the ‘wrong’ shifter. What worked was a shifter from a zx, the one that has the spring loaded center and flat face bushings. The one on the left. What is interesting, is the wrong shifter has a slightly longer hole to bushing tip length than the zx one that works. well a day to learn something new is a good day.

And if anyone wants pretty tinsel for their Christmas decorations, let me know.

Been busy today proving I can drill, no actually enlarge a hole. I drilled a 2.25” hole in some 1/2” aluminum plate using my Forstner sawtooth bits, about 57mm, then adjusted my boring head until I got 62mm hole. Well, slightly smaller, actually trying to match exactly the hole in the C type bell housing I have. I’d rather be over so slightly small then enlarge with a bit of sanding to make perfect. The insert style bit can easily cut the 57 to 62mm in one pass. Once I get it perfect, I’ll spot weld the boring head and bar into the head for repeated use.

So today I go to play with my new co-ax center finding thingy after drilling a nice 2-7/16 hole in a 1/2" thick piece of aluminum plate.. Get the co-ax, chuck it in my arbor, attach an indicator arm, move the table around a bit, start to move the indicator arm a bit to see what the dial gauge is saying, and..... It doesn't work. The needle never so much as budges when you move the center shaft in and out..... There is a pin I'd have to punch out to disassemble, but figure that will end my ability to return it. Back in box to Amazon with a return slip. Got what I paid for again..... sigh..... Order a better one and wait for tomorrow to see if the quality gods are on side or not

Do NOT try to Google “Tranny Doctor”...

And for the Cap’t, ...

Ok I have five transmissions apart in the shop. A 4 speed, Three 71B’S and a 71C. This is getting out of hand. But I’m learnin’ lots. Best of all is that the 3-4 shift fork from the C is perfect match to replace my bad 1-2 shift fork in the B!!!!! Only the 3-4 C shaft is 16mm in the C, the others are 14, so don’t even need a bushing. The only thing you have to do is make roll pin hole in the B’s shift rod bigger to match the larger hole in the C fork. Now regarding the new fork mentioned above from transdistparts above, it likely will not work. The 1-2 shift selector C type is slightly larger than the 3-4, so the fork is too big. They aren’t listing a 3-4 fork replacement.

Looking for trans parts? These guys have a decent selection. Even claim to have my shift fork. https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-fs5w71a-fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h/ Thanks to Aaron Heath on FB for pointing this out. I put out a plea for parts last night.

I knew I could count on you guys. Of course! The boring head. And a coax? Looks complicated, but you need what you need, right? off to the tooling store! Yahoo! all this requires that my mill head fits down into the transmission case. Haven’t tried that yet....

I looked. PM me so Santa can do his thing

So all you machinist's tool makers, inventors or dreamers out there. If you were going to "create" a 62mm cutter of some sort to put in your mill to enlarge a 56 mm hole, what would it look like? PS. 62 mm is just a teeny bit bigger than 2-7/16" (61.92mm) and just a tad smaller than 2.5"... (63.2mm) I've drilled a LOT of holes in Aluminum with one of these. They make a lovely hole with lube and a gentle hand. Buy a 2-1/2" one (63.2mm) and machine it down to 62mm, or a 2-7/16" one and weld on / add a cutter ?? That nice round shaft on there is exactly 0.500" to fit in a nice collet chuck. Centering is simple. I'll lathe up a 56mm puck with a 0.500 hole in the middle that fits oh so nice and tight in the bearing hole, then use a 0.500 rod in my 0.500 collet chuck to get the mill head in the right spot. Then put the bit you-all are designing for me in collet and cut away! Simple right?

I have closer to 24 in tires Would be fun to get my little yellow brick to go 150! My WAG about 2300 at 62 mph/100 kph is pretty close!

https://www.jbugs.com/category/vw-hoses.html

Feel is such a personal thing, and torque curves and rpm ranges are different in every car. As are driving styles and how I drive 90% of the time. I will have to put it in and try it out to see if I really like it. Swapping trannies is a just nice way to spend an afternoon. I plan on several long trips in the next couple of years so I hope to make good use of that .65 OD. Got the torque to lope along happy at 2300 at 65 MPH. I’ll be running 3.9 subie CLSD currently working on an idea for a jig to make the 62mm bearing opening enlargement easy and relatively fool proof.

Rota