zKars

So close. I could put the male plug on it and it would do just fine. I do have the right relay (but its ugly), so I can either exchange housings or just put a plug with new male pins and new shell and even get the right pin in the right position using the correct relay as a guide.

BAMMMM. Trigger pulled. I have SO many sets of lovely wheels that don't fit my overkill TTT BIG brake kit on my 510 it's making me mad. No more. Anybody want a set of Big front brakes for 280ZX? (And 510, but nobody here cares.... snifff). Gonna be available in a couple of weeks.

I've had several aluminum rims with quite severe and deep rim dents fixed (curb impacts) without them being cracked in the process. They use heat to soften then manage somehow to remove the dent. They can then machine and polish as required to return the rim looking perfect. I'm sure that if you just take a hammer to a dent in an aluminum rim you will likely crack it. I've been SO tempted to just tap a LITTLE and see what happens... Still make me wonder how such high force "instant" impacts make such a nice consistent and BIG dent without cracking it Right then and there. Maybe the aluminum alloys they use are more malleable than we assume.... I'm getting my ball peen.....

I have replaced the "blade" style OEM seals with a "Bulb" style weatherstrip like the door seals. The bulb has to be on top of the pinch weld rather than on the side like the door seals. I got mine from McMaster Carr. I can find the part number. 1120A122 for 1/16" edge, 7/16 bulb diameter https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3615 The OEM style seems to be about the least effective way to make a seal I can imagine. I think I kept a few of the OEM clips that hold the OEM weatherstrip on if you decide to get the reproduction of them.

I have a couple of decent tight hinge sets left over. I went through my stash last year and threw away 2/3's of them because of excessive pivot point slop. There is just about no way to keep you hood aligned with sloppy hinges. PM me and we'll get some on the way.

Found it! http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/gearreductionstarters.html

Great find indeed. I have a memory about a billet starter that was available a few years ago. Will have to dig through hybridz and see what I can find. THOSE were 100% american made IIRC and would be bullet proof without the Asian quality risks. Only down side is the appearance would not be stock, and the cost would be more, but what price are you prepared to pay for a lifetime starter?

Mr H, I will do all i can to ensure you have a Zed for the trip. There may be an available ZED closer to you than you realize. PM me or z240@shaw.ca

See that pin with the C clip on it? Remove and replace with a 1/4 bolt with washers on both sides, and a self locking nut. Feel free to use a M6 bolt if you want to keep it all metric. Tighten the nut until it squeezes the fork closed just enough to take out the slop but still lets the linkage move. Did this in first in 1975. Still a thing.

I've used Damper Doctor to rebuilt a couple of HB's, very happy with the result.

The head bolts, like ALL M10 female threaded holes in the block, are 1.50 mm pitch. Pretty much all other M10 bolts on the car are 1.25mm pitch, certainly all the suspension related bolts.

Man has lathe, mill and drill press and most definitely 'could' have made my own, did considered filing, but was not at home at the time of the discovery and need for a solution. Had to resort to the solution of spending money. But thanks for the vote of confidence.

I just never seem to learn. Needed some 1/4 to 1/2" spacers for the last couple of sets of front wheels I've had on my 510 to get them to clear the coil overs and fit the car right. Everybody does this to trim-out-the-fitment thing. Well I went to the speed shop and bought some that are 3/8". How hard is it to get a flat piece of metal with some holes in it? Well I learned the hard way, again. Very hard apparently. The only ones they had were, shall we say, not very expensive. These cast aluminum or unknown pot metal something's are absolutely pieces of you-know-what. I have been battling wheel shimmy for months, and never dreamed it would be these things. They are only 0.015 inch variance in thickness, but that amount, magnified out to the wheel/tire diameter made the wheels run out by 0.050 inches, which is nearly 1/16". Replaced them with these. Had a local metal shop laser cut these in 15 min. 5.75 diameter, 3" center hole, 1/2 diameter bolt holes at 4.5 bolt spacing. 1/4" 6061 TOTALLY REMOVED ANY AND ALL STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION I HAD, and it was not insignificant. Almost made it unpleasant to drive. Reminded me of this Beware! I wonder where they are made.... hmmmmmm.... Another way to see just how anti-flat these are. I sprayed them lightly with black and gave them a quick surface sanding on my reference flat abrasive platten (3/4" MDF with glued on sand paper).

Hate to say it, but I send you a couple of B spacers if you want....

The key to your search is summed up in four letters: BSPT and I suppose some numbers and symbols..... 1/8, 1/4 3/8 and maybe 1/2

IMG_2433.mp4

Here is the last dyno pull. IMG_2432.mp4

And the only thing we broke was the fan belt. It turned itself inside and kinda on its side, and spewed out cord from it's middle parts. You cannot bend it back into shape. Didn't actually break, more of cook and curl....

Yes that's 148 HP at the rear wheels from a NA 2400 CC Nissan hybrid engine. 90 hardbody LZ24 block with an closed chamber ported 70's L20B head fueled with Jenvey Heritage throttle bodies. The engine left Rebello years ago with 201 HP at the crank running on weber 45's and a real header. Bet we are close to that again. And the best part? The intake sounds are MUCH louder than the exhaust sounds (that I spent so much time taming down...). And for those of you that know that Datsun motor sucking sound, you will pay me to send you video's of this thing...

And the big day has arrived. Dyno tuning completed. Big thank you to Jimmy Bailey and all the crew at VEX that made this day worthwhile.

Ok, things make more sense now. I pulled my little collection of speedo pinions, and found out what's what. The pinions are all the same diameter. What does vary, is the tooth count (we know that) and the ANGLE of the teeth across the gear. Fewer teeth, lower angle (compared to rotation axis). Pictures below show what I'm talking about. And, sigh, I found one of the plastic output shaft gears in my stash... Yellow 3.9, blue 3.7, white 3.54. And finally the answer to initial question, using the white 19 tooth 3.90 gear, 20 output shaft turns = 6.25 pinion turns. Now I have my VSS conversion.

Well someone in 2017 did a pretty well designed study on 10 of these new fangled high ZDDP oils intended for old classic cars such as ours. I know we have discussed this in the past, don't remember if we referenced this study before. My apologies if so. Results were surprising to the author. Hopefully it will shed light on the current "hype" on this topic and perhaps result in fewer scarred cams and rockers around these parts. https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AHKKfKJ3E11RU1E&cid=FD59A041A3808BD5&id=FD59A041A3808BD5!1416&parId=FD59A041A3808BD5!207&o=OneUp Note: This contribution originally posted by a well known Z owner, Chickenman, on the510realm. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=31832

Yes, the actual plastic hooks are 71 ish through 78. Go in the same place as the round chrome buttons. Not sure of the change over date, but no later than Jan 71 point. I suspect you can actually put a coat or hanger on the hooks and have them stay there, where as the buttons, well, not the way I drive....

Only 77-78 windows work. The entire window, regulator and guide tracks are different for these years than earlier ones. I have a couple of spares if worst comes to worst if you can't find any closer.

A fellow on FB (Mark Shep) just posted a quick article about how he replace his choke cable sheath and core wire. He showed poictures of what he had done and he gave us the URL of the company he found that supplied the wire and sheath. Just had a quick look, seems that have quite a bit of inventory. Should be useful to use in the future. http://www.controlcables.com/ He measured the stock sheath and told them what he needed and they set him up, so we don't have specific part numbers but now we have another vendor to somehow remember.