zKars

Tighten until they break then back off a quarter turn. No seriously, those are M10x1.25 grade 9, so 33-44 ft-lb would be lovely. I found the right diagram and specs in the 78 FSM, RA-3. Rear axle and suspension, page 3

The ports look pretty little. Assuming the castings are similar to later heads there may be plenty to work with to make them bigger, but no guarantees.

I love the smell of frost bite in the morning... -18C this morning, Plus 6C this afternoon and above freezing the rest of the week here in 'make up your damn mind with the weather already' land known as Calgary. We did a quick parts run to the San Francisco area last weekend, got out just before the rain and snow hit. Tahoe had had a good dump the week before and news reports where saying up to 7 feet were possible during this weeks 'event'. You-all stay safe out there.

I re-discovered an orphan E-30 head in my pile last month while looking for other things. It should find a new home... hint hint....

Oh wonderful. No time or space to get it. Just a lousy 77 anyway.. hehehehehehe

Fantastic! Nothing bits finding a solution to problem using simple techniques and hunted down components. Besides, the tarp grommets I bought for the previous solution have magically disappeared in the hoard.... As an alternative to the washers mentioned, since you need to buy 25, McMasterCarr has very similar neoprene washers that you can by fewer of. They are listing as 55 durometer. https://www.mcmaster.com/90133a053 I'd also like to suggest some trials with 'super glue' as the o-ring adhesive. There are o-ring kits out there that have bulk o-ring rope,, a razor blade, and a tube of crazy glue so you can make any size o-ring you want!

Terrapin, I think I have a buyer already. I'll let you know it falls through.

I'm sure they work well. Clear quality variations between the top and bottom though. Might do one stud with the top one.....

Not my idea. Must have been the original engine builder. I just use punch marks or an engraving tool to write on the side in the web

Some of you may remember I had dragged home an early (70) Canadian 240 from the weeds in North Alberta over a year ago and I salvaged pretty much everything but the shell. The VIN was 2744 I think?. The thing was all matching numbers. The chassis is no more, it was beyond repair for all but the most dedicated restorer. I fell out of the driver side of the car as I leaned over to get out and the rocker disentigrated and the seat tipped over and deposited me on the floor. Yes, that bad. I would dearly love to rid myself of the engine that is taking up valuable space in my cramped shop. It is a Canadian specific spec engine, no air pump and correspondingly no air injectors on the exhaust manifold, smooth balance tube. E31, all original as far as I can see. It could go to a deserving home for embarrassing small amounts of nearly worthless Canadian loonies (like a large handful). I will be lazy for the moment and suggest I'm not interested in shipping it anywhere other than within Alberta, where I will happily drive it within 3-4 hours of in the back of my truck and push it off the tail gate for you for the price of my gas and lunch. Not a McDonalds cheeseburger, I'm talking fancy, like Wendy's. Surely someone out there would rather have it sitting in their shop rather than mine. I have also very rare matching gas tank that has fewer vents than usual, as these cars did not have the evap recovery tank and piping either. Make yourself a rare Canadian spec Z. You can do it. Let me know if you're interested at z240@shaw.ca

Yes, they are hard to find, I'm down to seven or eight...

Excellent write up. Thank you for taking the time to create it. Comments from my experience with EZ clip. i love the hose and fittings as they are all DIY. The hose is much smaller than the standard black hose and does much tighter radiuses-es-es... radii? Stay away from the SS braided hose that Vintage Air has unless the look of it is a requirement for your build. Pricey and very technique sensitive to get good seals. Second, do not buy EZ clip stuff from Vintage air. $$$. You can find them at AC businesses such as new-line.com much cheaper. Many major centers have New-Line retail outlets. Third, the EZClip lock ring plier tool is also much cheaper from ebay/amazon or new-line. Get one, don't try to do it with regular pliers. It also allows you to UNDO the clips.

Sure, see if the ring gear teeth are in decent shape and let me know. Thanks. Hippo Gnu ears!!!

I have a friend here with a 72 Z with auto trans, that needs a new flexplate. The ring gear teeth are all chewed up. Rockauto has one listed for all the 280 and 280zx, starting with 75 but nothing prior to 75., Here is a link to the only they list for 75-83. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209394,transmission-automatic,flexplate,8608 What are the chances of it fitting the torque converter on the 72? I suppose you could get a matching torque converter and flexplate (they list both in the 82 stuff) if there something unique with the early converter. I know there are hundreds of you out there intimately aquainted with the vagarities of the Datsun automatic transmission offerings, so this should be an easy question, right? And happy new year BTW.

I really need to design the universal lock/sandwich plate with LLLLLLLOOOOOOONNNNNGGGGGG slots that I've had in mind for ...... hmmmmmm 150 years, maybe more, so folks don't ever have to rely on finding the 'right' base for their dizzy choice. Just imagine your current base with the short little slots extended alllllllll the way around in a circle. Just a couple three bridge points so it's one piece. How hard can this be in this land of CNC laser cut parts?

Undo the two bolts that hold that front channel in place, and see if it will slide by hand up and down the nylon block smoothly. This will isolate if the binding is in the nylon block movement in its channel, Or else, something other misalignment that is causing the window to move such that it pushs the nylon awkwardly, binding it in its channel That channel is made of some thick steel, but I have seen some bent ones... I think those were mostly PO's trying to 'improve' the motion...

Assuming you are asking if you should or not, go for it. Only the 78 has a unique AFM without the internal fuel pump switch.

Maybe. Most of them have loose joints, but there should be a couple of decent ones. My hood had the same issue, though not so bad. I removed the torsion bars, should have done the hydraulic lift mod. Next one! Worn pins/rivets are very common. I'm sure the holes they pass through are worn oval as well. Would be great to come up with some replacement rivets! You'd have to grind the heads off of these, likely weld up/redrill the worn holes and re-assemble. I'll have to take my worst one and oper 'er up and see "where the wear" really is.

Why do the perfect Christmas gifts always show up when its too late? Next year I know what to get uncle Kevin at least...

Sitting here with a hoard of relatives, thinking how lucky I am. Also thinking how lucky I am to have more parts than relatives... Hope you get a chance to spend time with some of your hoard as well. Cherish every second. Merry Christmas!!

I have a few complete 240 columns, I can send you one. I also have the hardware that comprises the insulator (rag joint) and connections to the lower steering rod. Send me a PM here or email to z240@shaw.ca and we can discuss arrangements further. Merry Christmas!

Welcome to the cheap little box of fun club! That's an amazing condition 68 wagon. Is the inside as nice as the outside?

List price is $4 each.

My paltry collection of such items is thus: My expection of worth are of course astronomical. I'm thinking $5 each... hohohoho

All very impressive. Did you actually use 5/16 in thick aluminum to fabricate the tank? Misprint? Definitely bullet proof if it is.