zKars

If it were restricted to water, it would be fine piddling out behind the fender, but inevitably leaves and pine needles and debris goes down the drains and end up packed behind the fender at the bottom. This soggy mess trapping moisture in there full time is source of rust. There is a mod discussed here where you add a 90 deg elbow and an addition hose to the cowl drain hose that runs all the way down and empties into the wheel well. Pokes out where that little rubber flat is located at the bottom of the fender/inner wheel well plate is. This makes sure WHATEVER comes down that hose ends up in free air behind the wheel, not trapped behind the fender. 1.25 elbow and hose I think is the size.

Every sensor anyone has built, or will ever build, to read any physical property, does not read 'perfectly' with no errors in accuracy or precision. They almost all, regardless of what they measure or how they do it, as based on a scientific response models that connect, for example, how resistance changes occur with varying temperature. It ain't perfect. They are designed to deliver a specified accuracy and repeatability. We as consumers do not see this data when we buy a gauge. They are however, calibrated to internationally accepted standards (which also have errors, but much smaller ones) that everyone who builds this type of sensor is required to calibrate their sensors to, so that they can be responsible and accountable engineering businesses. Some comply, some don't. Companies that buy these sensors tend to buy from trusted sources. You can't as GM or Nissan, afford to buy whatever sensors you like from the cheapest vendor when they lay at the heart of how the engine runs. Nothing you build at home will even remotely approach the precision, accuracy and repeatability or response time of what commecial O2 sensors and their related electronics now provide. It is a wonderful experience to try to do better, you will learn a great deal while you do it.

Unless you just love the restoration of rusty old parts, I could offer you a complete replacement linkage in good shape if you prefer. At least you could scavenge the parts you need to re-do yours if the former is true. There is a thread on here somewhere about a detailed rebuild of the linkage, and I think they discussed the purpose of that spring.

I have a good compressor and related bracket/idler from an 82 zx. 80km car. Not sure if that's close enough or not.

Ah, the joy of a free market economy! Ask what you like, let the buyers decide.

A 'better' and simpler solution yet is to add a tiny electrical contact to the gauge face at the low end of the oil pressure gauge needle. When the gauge drops to the danger point, the needle touches the added contact closing a circuit that then turns on an indicator lamp. Or you could just look at the gauge needle cause that's why its there.

There is no provision for low oil pressure warning lights up to 78, maybe you're looking at a ZX manual? The oil pressure gauges don't have a warning light, just the voltmeter. Let us know where you saw this mentioned in the manual.

Every time one comes up for sale, I think, "yeah, do it". Then I remember I don't fit in one. Not even close. Like Miata's... I could turn it in to a club cab and drive from the back seat I guess.

There was nothing over 3/8 thick, most was 1/8 or so. The usual buildup in certain spots. It was applied properly with great prep apparently. It was hiding absolutely NO rust and was stuck on like you always wish it should be. Nothing just fell off, it all warm and scrape, repeat. It's a beautiful fall day here today, highs of 14C, so I'll have the big door open to get the draft going so I don't gas myself or go boom when I do the massive laquer thinner wash that comes next to get it down to pure virgin stock paint. Yes Dad, I'll wear organic vapor breathing protection....

Undercoating. Love it.... Love it even more when you remove it, and find...... NOTHING!

If your current cards are in ok shape, then buy 2-3 cans of SEM Phantom White vinyl dye. Do proper prep as per instructions. Abracadabra, poof. White door cards. I believe there are a couple of sources for new very good repro door cards (240 and late 280 anyway) and at least one that sells just the skins. Search a bit.

I could be happy working there. Really happy.

The 73 clutch master is spaced farther from the brake master as the booster size increased. The clutch pedal has an extra little L bracket welded to it that the slave arm attaches to, that gives it the over -to-the-left offset it needs. Earlier pedals with bolt in (main pivot bolt), but you will have to add your own little L bracket to get the master rod to line up.

Tha's so cool. That paint must have been put over a layer of vaseline to be that poorly bonded. I am a fan of scraping in other areas such as woodworking,, where the right tool and angle produce an amazingly controlled action to remove coatings. Removing sound deadening is another one. Maybe the right approach is to find a suffering college student or young painters apprentice who will work for beer and peanuts,, to stand there with the DA sander and do it the old school way.

Question about paint stripping. I see in the early top-of-hood' pictures that the stripper took the first coat and pretty much left the remaining coats. I have a project going right now that I have to remove a single layer of badly applied paint from the original stock paint. There are several chips out of the top layer, from storage damage, that I can easily make larger by manually picking more paint off. I don't trust the prep, so that layer has to go. See below. Wondering if sanding or a liquid stripper is the way to go to just get that crappy red layer off. Even if it does remove the top layer pretty well, am I risking the effect that the stripper has of releasing the paint bond of the lower stock layers? Any experience? I rarely remove stock paint, as it is usually very very well bonded to the body, and in this case, this car is as close to rust free and previous body work/repair free as I've seen in a Datsun of any variety. There is no compelling reason to take this one to bare metal. Any insight or recommendatoin is of course welcome, but I really just want to hear what Mark experienced when he removed that paint with the stripper, and how the layering removal worked/looked.

I did not send the "dirty dozen" to them. I should have, just to see what would result. If they could grind enough off to restore them and still be useable, I'd be impressed.

Delta Cam's is a wonderful business. Ignoring the fact that postal service delivery took 20 days to get there and back, they turned around 132 rocker regrinds in 48 hours (once they got there...) Every one looks like the 12 randomly selected rockers below. They look like they have some kind of coating on them, applied everywhere. Hardening process or the result of a polishing or tumbling step to make them look pretty? I suppose I could just ask...

Oooohhhh, that cable is quite a bit cheaper than the Lokar cables I've used for cable throttle conversions. Will have to get one and see what the difference is. I have a nice little firewall mount adapter for these things that works pretty slick, and matching ball sockets that I solder onto the ends of the cable that snaps right onto the pedal ball.

I'm properly inspired to go scrape some undercoating off the bottom of a nice clean 510 shell. Jack it up, slip under with some foam padding, get that torch out, melt some tar, eat some molten tar, peel some hot tar off of burnt skin. What could be better?

Zedsaver will do that for you. He can get a little carried away with the 'random' placement of the digits, so ask him to take it easy with that....

The three flat head phillips bolts that hold the latch assembly in the door, use different length bolts in the three positions. I think if you put one of the long ones in the bottom holes, it gets in the way of the mechanism. Seen this before. Anyway, try that first.

I've used many cans of propane with a soldering torch to help remove that glue like undercoat. Just a little heat goes a long way to softening it and making it easy to scrap off with a flat blade putty knife. Then a final wash with Acetone or paint thinner to wash off the residue. Nothing like slabs of hot goo falling on your head while scraping it off the bottom.....

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You know, as I wrote that, I was wondering who would come back with something first. Wish I could buy you a beer.

I remember sharing this same issue and solution a couple of years ago. It has to do with harmonics of the shift lever based on condition of the bushings and the weight of the shift knob apparently. Being on the end of a long shaft, small changes make big differences.