zKars

While there may be similarities to some of the updated functions that the old flat tops provided, these brand new carbs have nothing in common with them. These look like an excellent alternative to our old SU's. Seems to have the best of all the features you could ask for in a constant velocity carb. Brand new, modern support and parts availability being right up there with the design improvements.

Talked with Bruce, those 16067K1407 floats are $40USD a piece... I'm sticking wine corks in my float bowls...

I have to get a pair of those too! A fella in town here had the same problem. Same cracks. Craziest thing I've ever seen. Float full of fuel, shake rattle and roll and can't get a drop to come back out.

Ok, here are two side by side. First thing to note, the most useful I think, is that the GLASS is IDENTICAL on the 240 and 280 windows, at least up to 77-78 which are NOT interchangable. If you break yours, you can get a glass from any year 70-76 and just swap it on your frame. The metal frame the glass is attached to is definitely NOT identical. Very similar yes, easy to confuse, yes. Here is the difference. Both C-channels that hold and guide two of the regulator rollers are different in length and relative position on the backing plate. I lined up the two frames front and back, then took pictures of the two sets of C-channels. The underneath one is the 280 frame. 240 on top (no glass in the frame) Here is the rear channels. They are about the same length, but offset ~ 0.75". Note that the regulator wheel could be inserted at either end of either channel. here is the front one. The 280 (bottom) is farther back and shorter. Note that the regulator wheel could be inserted on both ends of the 280 only. The top 240 channel is too close at the front to the stamped indentation to allow the wheel in. To me this is the "best and fastest" way to tell them apart if they aren't together. If there is no access for the wheel one the front channel, it's for 240. Clearly they "improved" the window mechanism for the 280s (up to 76 in NAM). The door where the regulator attaches is stamped differently (outy vs inny stamping), the regulator is also different to match the door stamping change. the outer stainless guide channel that surrounds and seats the window is also different in how and where it mounts. Again, similar but different. All fodder for another thread. I will say that while you "could' use either window frame in either car, you will find that in at least one combination, when you wind the window down all the way, it will fall off one the tracks. Not fun. 75-76 280 door. Note the "outy" area around the regulator crank spline area. 240 door. Not the indented "inny" area around the regulator crank spline area. Also notice the welded in area around the door release area that is open and a separate piece on the above 280 door (not there in the picture...). Othe than the speaker hole, how many differences do you see? I see at least 5 uniquenesses.

Excellent, thank you. I will post some pics of the differences in the guide tracks for later reference. I'm pretty sure I knew which was which, but I think I have confirmation now. I'll wait for Steve to get his 73 pics taken to be sure. I want to start a new topic group called something like "One of these things is not like the other" and then post definitive pictures of various items (like windows, regulators and doors) across all of the years for later reference. Then I won't have to ask silly questions anymore. Or at least less often

I'm confused (again) and need a bit of help. Does anyone have a window (either side) door glass out that they can post a picture of? I need absolute confirmation of what year that glass came from. The two guide tracks on the window frame are unique between the early and late glass, and I can't for the life of me remember which is which. I need a picture of the side of the glass mounting frame that has the two short guide tracks where the regulator wheels ride. Either a early 240 or 76 or later 280 is best. Don't bother if its the later 77-78 glass, it's so unique I know what it looks like. Tanks!

I have these https://groupharrington.com/product/datsun-240z-and-260z-bumpers/ and they were terrific. Still look great. They were being manufactured in either Thialand or Vietnam IIRC so maybe these from bumperauto are from the same place? Just looked closer, the rear is a three piece like the stocker, the groupharrington rear is one piece. What price did they quote? The GH is on sale for 816 brit pounds.

I got tired of fighting this fight a long time ago. I keep a stock of longer cheap generic 5/16" or 3/8" hex bolts that completely solve all this struggle. Standard hardware store items. You just leave everything slack until you get the nuts started, then snug it all up. Also helps to have the control arms jacked up kinda horizontal.

Also a perfect fit offset wise for 510's! Not too ugly with a fresh powder coat and DATSUN emblems on the caps.

Due to unforeseen circumstances, 3798 is back up for sale. All is good, no need to be concerned. If you are interested, please let me know.

It is a bit of a puzzle. Many have struggled with this. You sort of have to hold the filter into the housing, drop the rear a bit, and slip the rear of the filter past the rear air horn to get it all out. Yes the front bolt has to stay in the housing while you do this. When you finally get the housing clear, turn it upside down and spill the bolt onto the floor where it will roll under neath the car. At least that's how I do it. Once you get the technique, you'll wonder what all the fuse was about.

Engine, trans, diff. Headlight bulbs. wheels, license plate, various bulbs, upper rad hose, yeah, that's about it.

This is incredible. Summit want $79.99 for a Pilkington windshield!! Even more incredible, I just bought one, and the shipping costs are quoted (Fedex Ground) as $32.27! All the way up here to the great white north! I just can't wait to see what shows up! I've bought pilkington and "asian" windshields in the past and they were more like $400 and $100 respectively. Will let you-all know when it gits here.

Just put a screwdriver/chisel in from the shifter fork hole and whack it. MUCH better angle of attack. If you're chicken, err, I mean, cautious, just use a long chunk of wood and hit the lever ball thingy instead.

The original picture is what 280 senders electrical connectors look like. They are not designed to be taken off or to be removable. The 240 senders had the slide on terminals and could be better insulated and water proofed by the rubber caps referenced above.

I was un-aware they were cupped to start with! as you can imagine, I have quite a few laying around and none exhibit any cup-ish-ness. Can't imagine why they would want them to be cupped, I would think that would consume a good part of the torque you're putting on the bolts or some such. I'm confused. again....

I would think the old washers you have would last for all eternity. Unless you lost a couple of course.

I have a crazy idea! When the gas gauge gets close to E, put more gas in the tank. Don't worry about the light that tells you the same thing. Sorry, couldn't resist. Now that I've had my fun at your expense, maybe there is a sender with that part in my collection. Somewhere.....

A hard pedal where you get immediate excessive braking at very distinct pedal point, has historically been commonly caused by the loss of the "reaction disk" in the booster. It's amazing how this thin little disk of rubber gives you the soft pedal and modulation control that utterly lost without it.

Wish I could help. I don't have a stock wired 510 anywhere handy.

Cat's out of the bag. New owner revealed!

Well that was easy! Seems 3798 will be going to new good home out east. It will be well cared for.

Well here we are, Spring 2018. if you call this "spring"... Spring = green where I come from, not white... Well I've decided to let this one go to a good home. Anybody want a very restorable 5/70 that is currently running and safe, let me know. Comes with a solid roof section to solve that skylight problem too. Have lots of S1 donor items from 2744 as well that can go with it as well at extra cost. 95% of what you need to make a very nice early Z. Just add hours, welding rod, and $$. You can have it for what I paid and the labour and parts I put in it to get it running and safe. PM me or z240@shaw.ca

I'll drop my asking price by the cost of the truck transport. Now THAT's determination.

I just wanted to update some pictures and provide some links that will make it easier to see the car and what's been done to it over time Have a look here for general pictures: http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/ and here where I dug up some pictures I took during a partial restoration of the underside in 2012. http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/2012_resto/ Also read this document to full history and details of what's been done. http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/240Z_Details.pdf