zKars

Yes she is. PM me or send me a note to z240@shaw.ca.

I'm going to regret not going to this, aren't I.... One trip to Georgia a year I guess

Stupid ancient tachs. Good reason that all tachs from about that time on-ward went to coil negative terminal trigger. Much more predictable waveforms to trigger on and count accurately There may not be much you can do to get your tach to trigger properly. Anything you "add" to the + side of the coil will reduce voltage and/or current to the coil and reduce spark strength. MAYBE go get a 0.7 ohm blaster coil and put the stock ballast resistor back in line and see if that helps? Use the stock coil and ballast? All of the modern tach adapter modules are designed for the negative trigger mode. No way to predict how any one of them might help or hurt, mostly likely will make it worse, unless you find one that specifically designed to handle the + coil power supply counting tach issue. Replacing your tach guts with a later 280z tach that uses the negative trigger is one common approach that tends to be reliable.

Just cuz you have nothing better to do, have you checked that the throttle butterfly is closed all the way with foot off the peddle? Just in case 'someone' may have tweaked the little adjuster screw on the side to get some idle bypass air via butterfly offset, rather than adjusting the official idle/air bypass? Just pointing out one of the assumptions one makes when doing tests like this that may escape consideration.

Don't forget the heat lamps and fan's to complete the sun baking and hair messing experience of a sunroof!

Can't fool you guys! For long....

Busted. Sad part is the core story is 99% true... My first car love was a piece of crap... But I wasn't fooled for long.

Maybe it's the fresh snow on the ground and the -13C temps on the first of April that has affected my brain function....

OK, great news. I've found my one true love of all time. Back when I was young (you know, the stone ages), the very first car any one let me drive was a sweet little white 68 Envoy Epic. A friend and I were out for lunch on school day, and I said, "can I drive?" and he said "sure". I got one block before I decided the joy in my heart was so overwhelming that I had to pull over and let him have his car back. He seemed very anxious for me to stop driving for some reason. True story. I fell in love with it immediately. I was heart broken when I heard just days later that it was stolen from the dealer lot where it was in for service (very unusual!). His entire family was in mourning. They were doing their best to appear strong, and spent much of the day laughing and smiling as best as they could. How brave they were. They even exclaimed "thank god it's gone!" In a feeble attempt to feign remorse. Then miraculously, it was returned to the dealer! Apparently the thief couldn't live with himself when he realized how heartbroken the owner was with the loss of such a wonderous vehicle. Anyway on a chance kijiji browing session, I came across this gem. https://oldcarjunkie.wordpress.com/2013/05/15/another-epic-for-sale/ What an opportunity to return my REAL car roots and to own a true classic. All of my other cars are for sale at $5 each. First come first served. Get this junk out of here! Gotta make room for the true classic.

The only things I know are different in the 280 bushing set are the steering rack bushings and the fact that 280's have a rear sway bar and 240's didn't (NAM), so there would be an additional set of rear end links and sway bar bushings.

Going through the various on-line FSM pdf files for the various years this morning, and sure enough, at least the 71 and 72 manuals list the "camshaft gear bolt" torque as 36-43 ft-lbs. The 73 manual if finally correct at 86-116 ft/lb Holy "engine destroyer" batman....

The drain plug is M8 x1.0. Banjo fittings are out there. Maybe just stuff a clear hose with 5/16 OD in the drain plug hole.. Or stick a Q-tip stick in the vent fitting and measure how far down the top of the float is. Of course you'd have to figure out the distance from the top of the float to the fuel level, the height of the vent tube to the "0" point on the body and do a bit of cipherin' A bit high tech I know... Just saying

Well it's spring here, almost, sort of, so it's time to once again put it out there that my baby is for sale. Surely someone is brave enough to consider making this special Z a member of their family. Let me know.

Clamp was likely just loose, or positioned on the wrong side of the "hump" on the pipe.

Even though I can only read about 50% of the text on these threads anymore with the lovely ads that appear so graciously to assist me in retail decisions (which about now are 'buy nothing'), just let me know if you need a "B" spacer when the time comes. I have never seen an "A" or "C" spacer, so you chances of needing a "B are really high.

I would think the mininum threaded engagement would be 1 to 1.5 times the collar diameter. 5 threads ain't gonna do it.

Don't panic yet. Occasionally when this happens to me, I just disassemble, clean the hub ledges where the bearings seat, clean everything that will touch again, and re-assemble. Usually straightens up and flies right. No biggy

You need taller retainers to keep those lash pads in place. Isky retainers from carid.com are reasonable. (Thanks Steve Bonk) You can also use 426 hemi keepers (thanks Steve Bonk again!) which put the valve tip lower in the retainer if you're stuck with stock retainers. Riley at Lynchburg Nissan has lots of lash pads at just over $6 each. http://datnissparts.com/search.php?search_query=lash&Search= Don't be afraid of getting fatter ones and belt sanding them down to spec as you check each wipe pattern like a good little engine builder.

Elliot, good advice here, look for a complete car starting point. You have a large active 510 group in your area. If you don't already know it, check out the 510realm.com forum. They can help you find a project car.

There is a thread on here somewhere about using blue plastic 2-part tarp grommets to replace those always-broken guide roller shields. I find the most common issue with tight or jambed window motion is grease in the guide tracks that has turned to 1,000,000 cp (super viscous) goo. When that happens, forcing the window to move with the crank bends the regulator arms, moves the guide tracks out of alignment, and it goes down hill fast from there. So take all the guide rails out, clean and regrease, and make sure the wheels that sit in those guides roll freely. These white plastic shields don't have a lot to do with how tightly the wheels fits the guides, but they do help some.

My buddy found two posts on 311s.org that claims its a 28mm or 1-1/8" on a 1600. Take both

He only has a 2000 handy, but its 27mm like an L.

Just asked a local roadster expert. Waiting on response

I'd drive it if I could find it... With those tracks I could actually get it out without shoveling!

The white washer in the picture is the noise reducing copper washer used in the 240's and later dropped on the larger/thicker splined 280 axles. None of the washers has any effect on the bearing position once tightened.