zKars

Even though I can only read about 50% of the text on these threads anymore with the lovely ads that appear so graciously to assist me in retail decisions (which about now are 'buy nothing'), just let me know if you need a "B" spacer when the time comes. I have never seen an "A" or "C" spacer, so you chances of needing a "B are really high.

I would think the mininum threaded engagement would be 1 to 1.5 times the collar diameter. 5 threads ain't gonna do it.

Don't panic yet. Occasionally when this happens to me, I just disassemble, clean the hub ledges where the bearings seat, clean everything that will touch again, and re-assemble. Usually straightens up and flies right. No biggy

You need taller retainers to keep those lash pads in place. Isky retainers from carid.com are reasonable. (Thanks Steve Bonk) You can also use 426 hemi keepers (thanks Steve Bonk again!) which put the valve tip lower in the retainer if you're stuck with stock retainers. Riley at Lynchburg Nissan has lots of lash pads at just over $6 each. http://datnissparts.com/search.php?search_query=lash&Search= Don't be afraid of getting fatter ones and belt sanding them down to spec as you check each wipe pattern like a good little engine builder.

Elliot, good advice here, look for a complete car starting point. You have a large active 510 group in your area. If you don't already know it, check out the 510realm.com forum. They can help you find a project car.

There is a thread on here somewhere about using blue plastic 2-part tarp grommets to replace those always-broken guide roller shields. I find the most common issue with tight or jambed window motion is grease in the guide tracks that has turned to 1,000,000 cp (super viscous) goo. When that happens, forcing the window to move with the crank bends the regulator arms, moves the guide tracks out of alignment, and it goes down hill fast from there. So take all the guide rails out, clean and regrease, and make sure the wheels that sit in those guides roll freely. These white plastic shields don't have a lot to do with how tightly the wheels fits the guides, but they do help some.

My buddy found two posts on 311s.org that claims its a 28mm or 1-1/8" on a 1600. Take both

He only has a 2000 handy, but its 27mm like an L.

Just asked a local roadster expert. Waiting on response

I'd drive it if I could find it... With those tracks I could actually get it out without shoveling!

The white washer in the picture is the noise reducing copper washer used in the 240's and later dropped on the larger/thicker splined 280 axles. None of the washers has any effect on the bearing position once tightened.

How about that tin plate that's trapped against the flange by the wheel studs? Is it deformed around the circular raised center portion? It's a close fit in there, it's kind of a dust shield. Grasping at straws now, everything looks right.

Just a maybe, did you put the outer bearing on the right way? The collar that sticks out goes toward the wheel flange. Maybe the inner bearing is not seated straight?

Sounds to me like you acted correctly to do all you could to keep the damage to a minimum. None of this was your fault at all, instead it was a skillfully executed set of maneuvers that may have saved someone's life. If she u-turned in front of you, that puts the drivers door right in line with your rather large truck. What transpired from your quick reactions and commitment to making the best of a bad situation rather than closing your eyes and slamming on the brakes, is dang near heroic. I call that a pretty good day.

No. The brake lines are all female flare fittings. No clue why Amazon claims these work. Get them from Raymond at Apexbrakes.com. Can't beat the price and the quality is great. Also a Canadian supplier

First verify that the oil pressure is in fact low by installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the port where the stock sender is located. The stock gauge should not be trusted. Normal idle oil pressure can be as low as 10-15 psi and should top out around 60 psi above 3000 RPM. Oil pressure is determined primarily by bearing clearances. If the clearance is too large, then the pressure can drop. This normally happens with an old engine. No excuse with a new one.

Start by disconnecting the washer motor, and testing if the fuse blows or not. If not, the fault is in the washer motor. If it still blows, the problem is between the washer button and the connectors to the washer motor

As if by magic, this in in my news feed. I love the internet. http://driving.ca/auto-news/news/brake-troubles-can-start-very-early

You guys are likely right. All those metal shavings that showed up while I drilled through the "plastic" were likely just my imagination.

Spindle lock pin deformation is the #1 cause of stuck pins followed closely by corrosion. Heat the housing up as much as you can with ever heat source you can muster. MAP gas on a propane torch is barely adequate but all most will have. Heat at 350F for 30 minutes then cool the cookies on a baking rack..... Wait, wrong recipe... John Coffey's favorite method of removal was a high quality air chisel with a point on it to drive them right out, run by a large air hose and adequate supply. I get about 75% removal rate with the conventional puller. BTW, hybridz has had a spindle pin removal tool loaner program going for years.

No such luck Mark, I survived. Stay put. I was repairing a broken bottom right corner of a L20B front cover. Welding (torch brasing actually) aluminum is fun. I had to build up new metal then file it back into shape. The busted out corner was long gone. PO had just put a large blob of RTV in the hole.... Sheesh Ok, I hacked it off just between the flange and the pinion housing. This is past where the end of the steel inner tube seats in the aluminum. Then I couldn't resist trying to separate the aluminum housing off of the steel tube. I drilled out the remaining metal in the two holes and heated the housing. Had the MAP torch out from doing the front cover repair. It came right off. A point of note here, as I was heating the aluminum housing to expand it, molten plastic stuff began boiling out of the two holes. Well after it came apart (easy, quite loose), it was apparent where that molten plastic came from. Both the steel tube and the inside of the housing have a groove, that was filled with that plastic stuff. Here is the picture with the remains of it in the groove after I picked at it. Here is the groove on the steel part. This leaves me a bit perplexed. I drilled through metal for sure in both holes to get to the ID. But to fill that groove with plastic, you would have to have the outer hole open to the OD and groove of the steel tube to fill it. So maybe the groove space is injection filled, then some metal is pressed in to the holes lock the two metal together. I think the plastic is a moisture seal between the two. I would have just used a dang o-ring.... The aluminum housing was not a tight fit onto the steel tube. I can tap it back on now that it's off with just a little effort. It would definitely rely on the pin/metal in those holes to prevent rotation. And here is the remains of the metal pin/plug after I drilled it out. So I suppose for Mark's Powder coating melted plastic, there may be a moisture path in or grease path out if the plastic filled groove is not full anymore. Just a little silicon at the housing/tube junction might prevent anything from going either way. No rotation prevention is likely comprimised though.

What time do you people get up in the morning? Just had coffee, have to go grocery shopping, then we'll see what happens with the bandsaw. Hopefully the rack is all that gets cuts off.....

First thing tomorrow I'll open that sucker up like a cod fish. All in the name of science, right? And I'll keep pounding one of the holes and see what I get out.

Yes, the 240 racks I have are aluminum. Later ones are steel, the ones with the bearing in the end of the pinion. I don't think it's a pin. Given the bulge I see on the inside I'm guessing some kind of maybe hot rivet that is soft when inserted? I have not had the time to look further at this, got other irons in the fire. That housing was a spare I had scavenged some inner tie rods from. I was about to band saw the thing in half just in front of those pins so I could see in there better. Usec racks I am not short of, and now that we've got a supplier of new racks, their value has fallen some. Anybody need a spare?

That could work! Beats trying to long-distance-file or sticking a long ended die grinder in there. It's a spare anyway.