zKars
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Everything posted by zKars
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Motley crew indeed... Had enough sun yet? Hopefully see you next year. So where is it next year? Any official announcements yet?
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The two bolt is for L4 engines. L6 uses the three bolt. Rock Auto lists them, so they are likely available through a local autoparts store. Beck/Arneley part. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+spacer,6252 If you really want a Nissan one, I can send you one if no one closer responds.
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Yup, complete mystery. Couldn't be that it reflects real values could it? Naw...
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I don't have one I can spare, but I can give you pictures and dimensions if that helps. If you are considering using it instead of the later style, the mounting method is so different it would be easier to make yourself a custom one that works with your exhaust. Then you can taylor it to be exactly what you need.
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How much Current through Distributor Sensor Leads?
zKars replied to TomoHawk's topic in Fuel Injection
Just use the same gauge or larger wire that is used in the stock harness and you can't go wrong. The voltage signal wave forms are very low. Make sure all you new connections are high quality and properly insulated. -
Thank you! Enjoying my morning coffee and pretending I'm there sweating it out with all of you. jfa's orange is dazzling in the texas sun. It's 48F here this morning.... chilly....
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Live it up boys and have fun. Remember to post a few pics so I live vicariously through you and pretend I'm there.
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The hood trim and cowl screws are remarkably similar. The hood trim screws are 8mm long, the cowl, 10mm. The heads are 9 and 9.2mm dia. They look and are the "same" as the door sill trim screws on a Z. I'm seen them on ebay before. The grill bolts are very typical M6x1.0 SEMS fasteners, 12-16mm long would be fine. Nothing behind to interfere. They were likely round head fasteners stock, can't confirm, don't have a pure stock one handy to check.
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And he's back. Will dig this stuff up this evening. Sorry. I should have a decent hood trim. Not perfect, but 9/10 I believe.
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Oh! 510! No wonder I was confused about hood trim screws. Z's don't got no stinkin' hood trim?!?!?!?! Ok, I have a bit of 510 hardware after my 69 resto, and, well, a LOT of Z hardware. How perfect OEM is this request? I know have the right 5 cowl screws, and lots of shiny CAD plated 6x1 bolts for the grill. Hood trim screws I have, but not a spare set, just a set that goes with the trim. I can at least measure and take pictures. Is it ok to talk 510 smack on here? I'm feeling mildly guilty...
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I've done four systems now using Vintage Air components. Stuff works ok, I've had some issues with leaking connections, but I'm now a big fan of the "Easy-Clip" system. Someone pointed out a system recently that looks better (as in a bit smarter) than the Vintage air stuff. http://www.restomodair.com/shopproducts/bantam-ultra-compact-custom-air-conditioning-system/ Any system you put in is total fabrication. Nothing "fits". Usually about 60 hours per car. Saw on hybridZ once where a guy put an entire Miata dash and HVAC system in an S30. Lovely finally result, but the hours, OMG....
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14 x 1.5 LH and RH is the tie rod adjuster thread size. Belmetric has them or a speed shop that sells rod ends if you have trouble finding the LH one.
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Sorry Manifold has been sold for a while.
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As long as the bolts go in, they will likely compress and fit just fine. The ID looks about right for sure. Should add some grease to the inside of the bushing to ensure a no-squeak fit. Poly bushings are good for this as well. If they don't fit, I'm sure I have a set of left over stock size bushings from an Energy Suspension kit.
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Unless your engine is weak in the vacuum department, there is nothing you can do improve the braking by adding more vacuum. The only real improvement will come with a larger diameter booster. You may have some fun making a later 280 booster fit. There are several steps in the evolution that involve mounting hole position changes. It can be done, just proceed carefully.
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I've read their website claims now. It does sound impressive and better than the Vintage Air stuff I've installed. Would like to know the cooling capacity so you can propertly compare with Vintage air's. In this case, size does matter.
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It will fit fine
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About the only consistent complaint about the repro vinyl I hear is the looseness of fit on the rear strut towers. Otherwise the fit and appearance of the diamond embossing is pretty darn close to stock. I think I may have a new set of the repro stuff I'd let go cheaper than MSA's price if you decide to go that route. Let me know at z240@shaw.ca
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Let's start with the problem that 240 hinges attach to the body with bolts from the inside (hinge has threaded holes), while 280 hinges attach with bolts from outside the body (bolts pass through hinges, into threaded body plates). Me thinks the ebay ad is thus somewhat misleading. You can drill out the 240 hinge threaded holes and "make" 280 hinges out of them. Using 280 hinges on a 240 is more problematic. (Weld holes and rethread). I believe all the doors and bodies share bolt count and location. Kits exist to re-bush/re pin your hinges. unless they are broken or missing the springs, just do that
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I know the one you mean. It needs a castle-like cover that acts as the lock for the cauter/cotter/cotur pin. I can always scrouge up stuff like this is you can't find one elsewhere. Let me know at z240@shaw.c
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Thinking too hard here guys. Just take a hose off one carb, and put it in a cup, and try cranking the motor and see what you get for volume. If you get a decent stream, try putting your finger over the end of the hose and see if you can build up pressure. You should not be able to hold the pressure back without making a squirty mess. It's not about pressure, or flow, but both.
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Absolutely begin with all three carbs independant linkage wise. Get each one flowing the same as you set the idles amoungst the three until the car idles well. Make sure the idle mix screws are all the same turns out (1, 1.5, not past three or you have other issues...) as a starting point. THEN hook up the linkage (should not cause ANY throttle change from base case) and get it idling again.
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Is your fan cracked/broke or are you trying to get better air flow with a modern design . I have a few spare stock fan's if you just need a replacement. Might also checkout Spalusa.com for motor and fan options.
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I would definitely restore it myself. I done a few and it's totally a D!Y (there I go with the abbrevs again...) The only exception is if the dash foam and/or skin is so hard and brittle that it breaks/cracks with an easy finger tip press. Then its a loosing cause unless you totally fibreglass skin the dash.
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I've never seen or had any in-dash wiring break or appear brittle with dash removal and referbishment. Unless you include the high current wiring (fat White/red) and their single terminal connections, and maybe the fusebox. I'm sure the $900 guy is just doing a CYA thing.
