zKars

I've been working on a 12/70 (VIN 17813) restoration for about 10 months. It will be ready for sale shortly. I have been making vague references to this project in a few posts over the last few months, hoping to wet your appetite. I do feel strongly about the adage of "it should go to a good home and to good people" so I'm starting here. This is the only place it is currently advertised. I will keep this true for at least seven days. Here are a few details and pics to get your juices running. White on blue. Series 1. fresh single stage paint. Only minor rust was present and is all fixed. Standard disclaimer about there being "no such thing as a rust free Datsun". Lets get this out of the way now. Fresh L24 with an E31 head, but the block is NOT numbers matching. There. I said it. what a relief to get that off my chest. It is done primarily as a stock restoration but it has several small and tasteful upgrades and many important and common "Standard" improvements. Nothing that can't be easily reversed if you want to go "pure". It's not perfect. I built it as a driver, not a show car or medallion winner. There are lots of things you can still buy, clean perfectly, or improve on yourself to make it "more better" and "yours". I've take hundreds of pictures of pretty much everything that's been done to it. No secrets. I put a fresh wiper motor electrical connector on it. Just had to mention that.... There have been a couple of white on blue series 1's that have been offered in the last year that sold in the $20-25K USD range if you're wondering what I'm asking. Recent discussions by members of this forum of similar cars for sale, make this a very reasonable range to expect. I'm flexible but not like when I was 12. I want it sold sooner than later. There is still time to finish it to a buyers specification if the engine, trans, wheels, whatever are not right for you. How often do you get that offer from a seller? I will happily discuss the details with any of you that want the full story. PM me for a phone number. Pictures coming below. Jim Karst

My meager collection

Here is Eric's choke know image from his website. zparts.com/zptech/comparisons

The show even got decent press. Next year there will be even more cars! http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/reviews/classics/collecting-classic-japanese-cars-on-the-rise-as-jaguars-ferraris-become-unaffortable/article31741762/

I'm not sure, but I really don't want to come to any croppers. ? Seems I do have one. There's one new one on flea bay for $165, a used one for $75 with shipping, I'm asking $50 + shipping.

I think I have one. Let me check later today

Pin sits flush ie all the way in. Things aren't lined up right yet.

One clarification on the hot water flow through the manifold and carbs. On 72-74 carb systems there is a valve at the end of the intake where coolant exits, that CLOSES once the coolant reaches operating temps. Hence coolant flow is only used to aid the warm up portion of usage. Now if that valve is plugged open, perhaps it contributes. I'd love to know what normal everyday carb bowl temperatures actually run at then what temps rise to after shut down, including the fuel rail. BTW I'm having hot re-start issues right now as well on my ZT Su's. Electric pump only, Non stock fuel line routing, SS -6 lines, no return. wrapped headers, inspection door vents, 0 problem running once started at any temperature. Only happens after hot shut down.

Those appear to be the "black pearl" mirrors that I have seen described. I've been lucky to have a couple of sets and I love them. All metal, can be disassembled easily and tension of both ball joints is easy to set. (mirror to housing and housing to base stem). I have set on my 73. $50 is a steal. Go get'em!

Ok, I feel obliged to point out a few things. 1. The liquid level you get in this experiment is dependant on the cross sectional area of the container. The boyancy effect of the float displaces a set volume of liquid, which causes the level to rise to a height that's = displaced volume/container area. If that cup is not the same diameter as a float bowl, you ain't even close.... Think about submersing a basketball into a bath tub or pool. You think maybe the bathtub level might rise a bit more than the pool? 2. Don't even get me started with the water/gas density difference being negligible. It's a 30% error in displaced volume. 3. So even with all these rather significant errors in float level settings, the car is then shown to run well. Hmmm.... It couldn't be that maybe the float level setting is not all that critical, could it? Foreshame the thought to challenge such a well accepted "truth" I feel obliged to apologize in advance for my rather gruff tone above. I seek only to bring enlightenment and to stimulate discussion. It's been one of those weekends....

I've found those things from time to time inside the tip of the valve cover pipe outlet rather than in the hose. I wonder if the brissle metal type has an effect on its flame retarding/extinguishing effectiveness. Maybe I'm just trying to justify an experiment that involves explosives.

I think many of us have battled with this issue including myself. I've gone from bushing-less adjustable race suspension that handled incredibly well but shook my teeth out, back to pretty much stock rubber where I still like how the car handles. the only mistake I made along the way was using shorter springs but not realizing how much shock travel you lose resulting in jarring bottoming out on not very big road bumps. I'm now a total fan of Weld on coil overs. Also watch where you put polyurethane. Just say no on the moustache bar, trans and engine mounts. These have nothing to do with suspension and everything to do with noise and vibration conduction to your arse and ears. I'm also quite perturbed how modern cars manage to have the softest compliant rides but also out handle me with one finger on their power-assisted leather steering wheels.

Call me a crazy person, but unless you really want the authentic seal to keep things, well, authentic, I'd suggest going another route. I really don't like the rather poor "seal" this type of shape makes with the fender. If you really want to prevent water from going "over the wall" so to speak, I'd suggest something like a door weatherstrip like those found here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-bulb-seals/=13zgp4c You can buy lots and extend it as far as you think it needs to go. If you install it with the "grip" just barely started on the pinch weld, then apply the fender, it will push down as far as it needs to, to make a perfect consistent seal along the fender length, as that gap is not consistent. One could even add a small bead of sealant alone the top of the seal to really stem the tide. Ok, enough nautical references.... If I can find the specific one I used, I'll post it. Edit: Here it is. 1120A232 bought 10ft. I secretly hoped that the Kia door weatherstrip would work. It won't, bulb on the side rather than on top. Then I could say I have it on the doors, hatch AND fenders. hmmm perhaps I shouldn't add fodder to the "Crazy" thing... Oh, if anyone needs a few of the original clips for their "authentic" seal, let me know....

Let me know at z240@shaw.ca if no one closer responds.

And for completeness, here is the authentic Canadian Tire light weight practice puck solution along side the stock rubber part. For correction pucks are the correct WIDTH but are larger diameter. Those metal tubes are from the poly bushing . The material stiffness is pretty much the same as poly, maybe a bit softer

Zed has this right unfortunately. That is definitely a 4 speed sorry.

See, I started a funny carpet thread. Just keeping you all in the loop. And Blue, stopping making fun of my wife's (not mine) 370Z

Look closely and let your imagination run wild. Really wild... Maybe looks more like Bob Marley. Shroud of Toking then Hey, you started it.. I'm stopping right there.

Wait! I think I see an image in that dirty carpet stain! My K? Is that you? The "Shroud of Turning" !!!?!?!?!?

I'll bet it was done with spray chrome!. That is a dream trip for me. Have to find a way to do it.

Let's just assume it was bad timing with the auction.

Well it's about time someone brought the issue of preparation quality. I was frankly expecting more detractors by now. Of course there are flaws in the finish, the prep on these is not perfect. But if you get dust in your paint job at the body shop do you blame the product or the application and prep. The parts of the items that are smooth and glass-like have excellent quality chrome reflectivity. Places where there are imperfections, divots, casting marks, and yes dust, will produce a less than perfect chrome reflective surface with a paint type finish method. I did not ask the tech for a "perfect" job and related prep. The knobs especially had less than perfect chrome to start (minor pitting) with and very minor defects show through. They were vastly improved in appearance, comparing before to after. I think the picture are showing dust that is on top of the chrome as well, so that may be misleading. I'll see if I get better pics that reflect (pun) more of what I see (or don't see) in my hand. Judging chrome work implies the highest standard comparison to your typical perfect mirror like bumpers, very easy to pick out flaws in other techniques. There are always comprimises in alternative methods. I still stand by the quality of the process in terms of what is possible, given correct prep. The appearance, durability and cost saving far outweigh other methods, in my opinion.

I'm watching the end result $$ with great interest. I'm about to put the early 71 I'm restoring up for sale. This will make a good (I hope!) comparison.

Chickenman, I'll see you this weekend at the car show! Bring them and I'll take them back with me and return by mail later. Low delivery fees!

Yes, that was the next post. Got distracted, sorry. They charged us $145 (CDN, about $1.50 USD, well $115 ish) for the 5 pieces. The two tail light strips were $90 out of that. There was quite a bit of prep on those. Clearly if you did a lot of prep and masking yourself, the costs could be reduced further. I don't impress easily, this process appears to have potential for the restorationists in all of us.