zKars

I'll be impressed when they offer a variety of loudness options. I guess I mean quiteness options. Even the idea of just having the option of adding a resonator into their kit. Perhaps its my age (19 ) but I want quiet! Many people around me are asking for the same thing. And I've never seen lock washers come with those generic crush muffler clamps. No doubt there are a variety of qualitties available, but these are designed to be simple and cheap. I feel lucky if I get a set with flange nuts. Jeff, with a 280 tank and bumper shock mounts, you won't get the fitment so beautifully displayed in MSA's ad.

Just checking which little brace you're referring to. Do you mean the strip that crosses the entire floor pan and connects to the back of the rear mount pads and ties them to the floor? I had no idea that was not there in the early cars! I have 8570 here right now, it has it. No surprise they wanted to ad more strength to these mounts though. The 280's seat mounts were 2-3 times stronger than the 240 mounts.

The complexity of adding all those pieces to just raise the RPM to the "high" sync level during an infrequent service, makes me think there just HAD to be more to it. But it's clearly stated in the FSM and maybe even on the air cleaner housing that this is just for this one test. Now I have to admit to using it as a idle setting device.. Since there is an interaction between the two on-carb idle setting screws and the inter-carb sync screw, that makes you go round-and-round tweaking all three to get both the sync and idle right. Then you put the air cleaner on and later decide the idle is too high. Here we go again.... Bahhh.. So back the two carb idle screws off, and use the high idle screw to get idle, balance flow using only the inter-carb link screw, then set the idle where you like. and tweek it later without affecting the idle Feel free to call me lazy. I prefer to think I'm giving a piece of generally un-used and un-appreciated equipment a moment in the spotlight. If it had a thumb it would be under its nose, saying, "I can hold idle just as well as the two of you, all by myself!"

It will be interesting to see where the price goes. Watching carefully. Good luck with the sale!

cool...

Whoa whoa whoa. Chickenman, you're sipping too much happy juice again! Those fuel lines under the floor pan on the right (passenger) side like in the pictures above all ALL 280Z !! Never ever seen a 240 with them anywhere but way up in the tunnel running to the right side of the shifter hole like the red car picture above, and I've been intiment everything from VIN 137 to 175,000. That black picture is clearly the seedy underbelly of a 280, see how far back the frame rails run under the floor pans? Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club

Oh! Well that's easy. Send me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll get a set in a box for you and send some pics!

Is it just the bolts you are after or all the plates as well? They are just M10x1.25 as noted, maybe 30mm long. Grade 10.9 JIS for sure. Belmetric would have them. I wouldn't feel bad using SAE 3/8 Gr8 NF hardware either. At the local "Bolt supply house" the Gr8 fine hardware is all CAD plated and purdy too! Bonus. I have spares of the top/bottom plates if you need a set.

Carbs and linkage sold to local buyer.. thanks

Interesting. Chances are something is worn. If you need a knob or switch let me know.

No washers ever seen, even on a couple of early E31 heads. Part 21 is also marked as the head bolt washers. Head bolts are 10mm, cam tower bolts are 8, so no way they would work. Must be a drawing error.

They are 20 x 1.5 thread pitch. Same on 70-83 stub axles regardless of splines.

I have a nice set of 40 DCOE triple webers with a Cannon manifold and linkage for sale. Available after another successful SU conversion. Very clean inside and out, very low mileage. Manifold freshly blasted, cleaned and painted. Linkage arms replaced with great quality arms from Speedway motors. All hardware. Only problem is one broken mounting insulator (see pic) that will need to be replaced. All hardware, every nut bolt screw and insulator oring. Jetting : Chokes 4.5, Mains 135, Air 180, Aux 50F11, Em. tubes F11, Pump jet is 60. Chokes are snap in style. No air horns required or included. Oh yeah, and three thin K&N air filters as well. Freshly cleaned and oiled with genuine K&N products by yours truly. Chrome is great! Asking $1000. Shipping to be paid by buyer. Let me know if you have any questions.

Well I can't test my new cassette deck unless someone brings me a cassette (no Kiddy tapes please), so I've got time to chime in on this.. Please everyone remember that float bowl levels while the engine is RUNNING is what is important. The static level while the engine is off is determined by when the float valve decides to close as the bowl fills. In the running case, there is a steady or perhaps some open/close cycling of the float valve as fuel is drawn out the bottom and comes in the top to meet demand of what's leaving. The fuel level in the jet tube is always at the top of the bridge during running, that's how fuel gets to the air rushing in. Or the other way, the pressure drop due to air rushing over the bridge draws the fuel into the air stream from the jet tube. HOW MUCH fuel the engine gets is just the position of the needle in the jet. So in my humble opinion, while running, The bowl level just needs to be such that enough fuel is available to keep supplying the demand of the current pressure drop.. It's exact level, or matching level in both bowls isn't really that important. As long as the flowrate into the bowl is always higher than the rate exiting, the car runs just fine. Now I'd love to be proven wrong. Someone set the floats perfect to spec, go drive and record AFR's across some operating range and note performance, then set the front float down 2mm and back one up 2mm and see if anything changes. The only thing that changes is the small difference in back pressure generated from the height difference of the column of fuel in the jet tube verses the bowl level. If both level differences in each carb aren't the 'same', then there is a teeny weeny flowrate difference as fuel flows up the jet tube. Is this difference enough to affect performance? I doubt it. But then again I only know how to calculate flowrates in oil wells...... Lets see, about 8.5 kpa pressure change per meter of height for gas, so a 2mm difference is about .00004 kpa, so... ARGHHHH I'm retired.... I'm not doing this

No polarity. Either way is just fine.

Carefull soldering new wires back on! I melted the innards of a couple trying too hard. Super clean the tabs, bit of flux, hot iron for just as long as need to get a dot of solder to stick. Cool and do the other. Tin wires, then quickly melt the tinned wire to each terminal. The original wires are squeezed into a slot in those tabs with no solder for this reason I think. New ones are on rockauto pretty cheap anyway I think

I recently traded a pretty nice dash from a 73 240z (and other goodies) in exchange for a nice L28 engine I had laying around. A local friend is building up his 73 and had several items he scavenged over the past few years he no longer needed, so naturally they had to come live at my house. He jokingly mentioned there was a cassette player in the glove box. Yeah, some POS I'm sure.... I didn't actually look at it for several days. Just popped the glove box today, Nearly dropped my drawers! It even has a Datsun part number!! 99993 00044 Don't know if it works yet. Have to find a cassette somewhere! WHY did I throw them all out 10 years ago! Arggggghhhhh

I've seen the responses you've gotten on hybridz for these. If those folks are helping you, I'll put mine back on the shelf.

I think I can scratch up a couple of those and squeeze them in an envelope bound for Switzerland. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take from there.

The use of adhesives is now almost SOP in body shops. Many newer OEM's FORBID welding due to crazy alloy mixes in the steels that guarentee accelerated corrosion and mad customers. Glue Rules! You make a good point about checking compatibility of the epoxies used with oil based rust preventative coatings. Hate to eat the stuff up! Epoxy's tend to be pretty inert once cured, but it's definitely worth checking

Me too. I spent a fair bit of time cleaning/wiping and scotchBriting the inside of the hood by hand and never noticed any lumpy bumpy's.. I'll try that again now.

So the 71 I'm worling on finally made it to the body shop. Now I can work on other projects. It had been previously painted with who knows what kind of industrial flat white. The shop is stripping it. I know it had "some" hail damage, but look what showed up after stripping. Holy chicken pocks batman! Maybe I just go with the cheetah theme.... Kudo's so far to the new body shop I'm trying this time around. Wally and the gang at AutoComplete Calgary. If this job goes as promised I agreed to spread to word to others in the area. Here is their first installment. They are also doing a bit of rust repair for me, the two dog legs and the hatch/latch panel. I brought them patch panels. They are using adhesives instead of welding on the dog leg work. MUCH better for long term rust-through protection. I plan on flooding the rock and dog leg internal areas with Rust Check or equivalent after paint as well. Staying 904 white with blue interior. Unless someone wants it after its done, then let me know your color choice soon

Now what on that car could possibly worth having or saving?. Est Retail Val of $5K ???? Maybe as lawn art, but really?.

I agree. How about It now be known as the "T/G Ring" regulator fix.

Nice find! I need a set of blue as well. Thanks!