zKars

No polarity. Either way is just fine.

Carefull soldering new wires back on! I melted the innards of a couple trying too hard. Super clean the tabs, bit of flux, hot iron for just as long as need to get a dot of solder to stick. Cool and do the other. Tin wires, then quickly melt the tinned wire to each terminal. The original wires are squeezed into a slot in those tabs with no solder for this reason I think. New ones are on rockauto pretty cheap anyway I think

I recently traded a pretty nice dash from a 73 240z (and other goodies) in exchange for a nice L28 engine I had laying around. A local friend is building up his 73 and had several items he scavenged over the past few years he no longer needed, so naturally they had to come live at my house. He jokingly mentioned there was a cassette player in the glove box. Yeah, some POS I'm sure.... I didn't actually look at it for several days. Just popped the glove box today, Nearly dropped my drawers! It even has a Datsun part number!! 99993 00044 Don't know if it works yet. Have to find a cassette somewhere! WHY did I throw them all out 10 years ago! Arggggghhhhh

I've seen the responses you've gotten on hybridz for these. If those folks are helping you, I'll put mine back on the shelf.

I think I can scratch up a couple of those and squeeze them in an envelope bound for Switzerland. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take from there.

The use of adhesives is now almost SOP in body shops. Many newer OEM's FORBID welding due to crazy alloy mixes in the steels that guarentee accelerated corrosion and mad customers. Glue Rules! You make a good point about checking compatibility of the epoxies used with oil based rust preventative coatings. Hate to eat the stuff up! Epoxy's tend to be pretty inert once cured, but it's definitely worth checking

Me too. I spent a fair bit of time cleaning/wiping and scotchBriting the inside of the hood by hand and never noticed any lumpy bumpy's.. I'll try that again now.

So the 71 I'm worling on finally made it to the body shop. Now I can work on other projects. It had been previously painted with who knows what kind of industrial flat white. The shop is stripping it. I know it had "some" hail damage, but look what showed up after stripping. Holy chicken pocks batman! Maybe I just go with the cheetah theme.... Kudo's so far to the new body shop I'm trying this time around. Wally and the gang at AutoComplete Calgary. If this job goes as promised I agreed to spread to word to others in the area. Here is their first installment. They are also doing a bit of rust repair for me, the two dog legs and the hatch/latch panel. I brought them patch panels. They are using adhesives instead of welding on the dog leg work. MUCH better for long term rust-through protection. I plan on flooding the rock and dog leg internal areas with Rust Check or equivalent after paint as well. Staying 904 white with blue interior. Unless someone wants it after its done, then let me know your color choice soon

Now what on that car could possibly worth having or saving?. Est Retail Val of $5K ???? Maybe as lawn art, but really?.

I agree. How about It now be known as the "T/G Ring" regulator fix.

In fact I have several issues; National Geographic, GRM, Z Sport Mag.... This may also explain why I am no longer allowed any mind altering substances other than exhaust fumes.

That plan has a few cracks in it though...

Got one of those new fangled dash cams.

Nice find! I need a set of blue as well. Thanks!

Late consoles mount differently than early ones. Possible, but not "bolt on". Plus it's just wrong....

There is documented evidence on hybridz.org, I know it's been discussed, mostly around the issue of time mark wander showing that the two halves had shifted due to that rubber stuff failure or bonding release. Can't remember ever seeing a picture of one that came apart though. True failures are "rare" I believe. If you have doubt about yours or want to do something about it, rhere is an outfit in the US (damper doctor I believe) that will replace that elostomer material with new. I had one done years ago. Quite reasonable.

You must be congratulated for your eloquent response. What he said...

Let us review the correct way to install these components. That nut, nylock or otherwise, gets tighted to, yes, a well advertised torque spec, BUT there is an underlying assumption. That those big surrounding washers (assuming you've put them on the right way around) must FIRST contact the underlying (my new favorite word) central tube pipe thingy... THEN the nut gets torqued. If you get your butt totally fooled by squeezing mushy or too stiff poly-whatever-thylene (while trying to make things "better"), or have the assembly all out-of-alignment while you do it, and torque that nut to 50 and think your golden, well, then you may very well get into the situations above... Just saying...

Yeah, what the hell? I thought all Datsun hawkers put their name and address on Craigslist so we can totally play Russian spy and see what they're hiding under the deck, right?

Thanks 73! Carb and air cleaner on the way today. Manifold now available alone. I'll sandblast it into like-new perfection as a promo. Pics of the pretty manifold by itself added in first post Feb 28 2016

The 123 system neither uses or does not use a ballast resistor. It requires between 2 and 3 ohms of primary coil resistance. So if you buy a 1 ohm coil, you have to add a 1 or 2 ohm ballast resistor in line with the +side of the coil to get to the 2-3 ohm target. If you buy a 3 ohm coil, then you skip the ballast resistor... Kapeesh? Okay one more thing to add. Having too little resistance just makes the coil and/or internal transistor switch burn out way before you hoped it would. It's all an operating current hence heat issue. If you HAVE to buy a 0.8 ohm MSD coil on the road somewhere due to a failure, don't sweat it. It will work just fine for weeks. Just don't leave it any longer than you have to. It's not an instant death sentence

Here we go.... The upgrade Harness has three, 3-terminal connectors and two ground lugs that extend beyond the relays. Going the other way, there is one long lead that goes to the battery via a fuse. The head light connectors have 3 pin male pins with Red (or RY), RB and RW wires on the harness side. The three 3-term connections go as follows. The first pair (together, after the relay just infront of the rad support) splice into the right hand headlight connectors. Disconnect the HL connector and plug in the matching pair from the new harness. On the left, again disconnect the head light connector pair and connect the single remaining 3 pin connector of the new harness into the head light side (female) of the connector pair you just took apart. Abandon the harness side connector. It stays empty on the left side. Pull the two bolts that hold each side of center valance up (the one bolt shown in the above lower left corner in the picture) and put the ground lugs under the bolts and put them back in. Clean the bolts first..... Hope they don't break when you take them out too... Clean all the stock harness and head light connectors while you're at it.

Wirecare sure has some great products, thanks for that tip! Chickenman, TechFlex Clean Cut can be purchased from B&E electronics in Calgary. http://www.be-electronics.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=techflex Maybe a cheaper source for you. I have to stock up again, let me know if I can toss some in the mail for you.

While all you electrical geniuses are changing terminal ends, pay attention to the corrosion on the strands of wire when you strip the wire insulation. If they aren't shiny copper color (and they rarely are in my experience for any under-hood wiring), then you have to clean the individual strands before re-crimping or you're not gaining much. Might just as well clean the existing terminals. Separate the strands with an exacto knife and scrap them clean or use a good electrical cleaner such as "De-oxit" D series contact cleaner, not just IPA (and I'm not talking hoppie beer either). Vinegar and a rinse works too, just slower.

There are commercial systems available. http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/