zKars

So. Seen a thread a few weeks ago on one of the face book groups about the proper way to install the pilot bushing in the back of the crank. Actually I think it was about some trans noise the OP was trying to track down, then someone said it might be your pilot bushing, then others chimed in about that and it went on to how to install one. Then does and don’ts. You know how those discussions go. Well a couple of questions have arisen from some of the comments I read, so I thought I’d ask this collective mind about them and see what you’re experience is. Question 1. Some/several said you MUST grease the trans input shaft tip where it goes into the pilot bushing. Many of them are very experienced old timers with plenty of practical experience. I never have, looking at the pilot bushings I have handled (plenty) they look like an oilite type bronze metal which typically does not require lube of any kind. The FSM for 76 in fact says DO NOT oil. The 82 ZX FSM mentions nothing one way or the other. The fit is also quite loose, i once tried every new bushing I had once (like 10) and they were all quite a loose fit, some worse than others, but NONE were anywhere near snug where you had to push it one by hand with some force.

No. Reproductions. I have some used complete windows and some of these pieces from others I’ve stripped but am away for the next 10 days.

The microfiche also has a blow up of 77-78 door window track guide thingy’s. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/door-panel-glass-hinge

I thought of another mis-fire problem and the solution. Like Mark, it was related to the plugs. I used, and still use, NGK BPR6ES plugs. The issue I routinely run into with them, is that the end of the plug where wire snaps on, is threaded on to the plug, and is often loose. Several years ago (2015), a random issue with mis-fire throughout the range dogged me for a year or better, and when I finally discovered that one of the end caps was loose on a couple of plugs. Tightened them up, and the mis-fire went away. The BPR6ES-11 plugs that also spec'ed for 280's with EFI, don't have the threaded end cap. I described this WAY back in 2015. The thread lionk is below if you want to see pics. EDIT EDIT : just doing a bit of a good search. NGK plugs BPR6ES #7131 have the threaded caps, #4008 have solid caps! Jim, stop buying #7131 BPR6ES plugs you old idiot! BTW, Don’t order the Denso #4008 plugs by mistake. They are NOT the same….. Just saying…..

We had a case here recently with high RPM misfires that turned out to be a poor fitting distributor cap that must have been moving around at higher vibration levels at high RPM’s. You could wiggle it with your hand, wouldn’t seat square and tight. Replaced it with a new cap and viola as they say, revs to the moon with no mis-fire. Ignition systems rely on a in-spec gaps and fitment, any “Extra” energy lost with a too large gap (or inconsistent gap) and resulting spark, results in a weak plug spark and mis fire.

To finish up this topic, the caps suggested above have arrived, and they are a perfect fit. The chrome is perfect, they even come with the four little screws! Now to transplant the old stickers. Or get new ones. Now the decision has to be made about how to protect the amazing bare metal finish on these wheels. Polish, clear powder coat, clear acrylic paint?

There is a gentleman named Sal Ceja on several of the FB Datsun groups that sells shims for our diffs. He may also be able to supply technical help.

If you must use “bondo” on bare steel (don’t! Prime it first, epoxy primer is good), use the short strand fiberglass filler rather than regular light weight filler. It soaks up WAY less moisture from the air than standard bondo. Standard bondo on bare steel is the fastest way to get that steel rusty and have that bondo go byebye.

A BSPT male to NPT female adapter is pretty easy to find. I know McMasterCarr has them, and even Autometer has that part as well. https://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to-1-8-bspt-pressure.html?gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo9unBhBTEiwAipC113yoh0IxbFAi4AbHjmRRP0yeHW3MdROua1aBNLXI9UrOlpXXf4pvgxoCdDAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Even Amazon.ca has them next day delivery. Hunt for Autometer 2269

I hope it’s “real” as well. It’s in pretty good shape, bit of lifting at the front top where is meets the windshield weatherstrip, glued that back down. Couple of splits at the back edge at the hatch gap, will have to investigate vinyl repair techniques. No signs of delamination anywhere, that sucker is stuck down good. I especially love the contact glue overspray that was all over the side of the hatch on both sides. It came off pretty cleanly with some modern contact cement remover. Not what I would have expected from a factory installation though. Maybe a sloppy dealer installing a factory supplied kit? Who knows. Poor thing has had a repaint sometime in its past, there are little yellow strips at the edges of the vinyl where it comes down the A pillar where masking tape was not quite covering it. That will come off too.

Love to dredge up old topics, but I think I have one of these "factory leather tops" on a Z I'm restoring (maybe more like refreshing). 1/71 build date. it is most definitely not leather. Were they ever really leather? Factory or applied later after purchase? Love the fat chrome trim strip at the base on the 1/4 panel and hatch.

I forgot to include the hole spacing in my post, so although they are perfect visually, they are 2.5” spacing and I need 3-5/8”. And then I had a thought while typing the above. I wonder if they are measuring the “spacing” between each adjacent pair of holes, rather than the “bolt circle” diameter approach that I was using. So I rushed out and measured my cap, and sure enough, adjacent holes are 2.5” !!! So these likely work! Thank you!

I really suspect this is not a new topic, but I’m looking for new ones of these. I know they won’t come with the fancy Z stickers. We have a solution for that. Any leads? I’ve been searching and searching to no avail.

Now for the later PITA ujoints, 15 x 39 ujoint for staked yokes. A thread where these were discussed with a part number https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1100 Part Number: UJ1540SD They indicate they are out of stock as of today. They indicate a length of 1.535 which converts to just under 39mm, even though the part number suggests they are 40mm (1540SD) I have a pair of these in my hand, confirm part number and fitment.

First the early 16mm x 40mm style with C clips Previously I could find them using the ATV700 part number. These come from this specific Kawasaki ATV Kawasaki Bayou 300 front driveshaft u-joint set 1989 - 2004 Kawasaki OEM part number : 49050-1055 Once I knew this I was able to google that part number and found plenty of suppliers BTW, this is all confirmed through a local Kawasaki ATV store here in Calgary. He can get them for $37.99 CAD each. Ebay has them too. As does Amazon.ca, $46 each, 4 day delivery They mention the model # of the ATV, KLF300C They also mention it fits "Mule 2510 4x4 1993 - 1999" Ebay mentions there manufacturer is East Lake Axle and their part number is U201.02 And the really cool thing? All these U-joints have zerks..... And some specs from http://motormasterpowersports.com/index.php/product/detail/sku/ATV700 On the generic ATV700 part

I have been searching for u-joints for the steering shafts again, and my usual suppliers seem to having stock issues. I searched around in the threads for old links and sources and found a bit of a mess so after finding out tons of additional information about part numbers and such, I thought I would leave a single thread with as much information as I can I'll divide this into the two sizes of u-joints. The 16x40mm early un-staked type with the snap rings, the later 15x39mm ones that you have to deal with the stake and un-stake. Won't get into how-to in this thread, just sizes part numbers and companies etc

Interesting. Text and pictures from another thread I responded to. Site bug I suspect.

9 inches long, 1/2” wide, slit is for 1/32 sheet metal. Strangely the width of one side is slightly narrower than the other. Not likely going to find replacement material with that, but no one will notice. They take a little wedge out of the center to help it conform to the corner

Cost analysis, The CIBIE housings where $78 each, the bulbs a hun, so for $200 bucks I got pretty decent (and easy to install) lighting. Not bad.

Who doesn't love a little butter on their Z after all!

So doing this all again on a bit of a budget 71 Z that I'm restoring (Dapper don't fit the $$ profile), I decided to hunt down a better LED bulb solution, and maybe I have it. Philips has a nice LED H4 that has a small fan and NO driver box. Here is my Amazon screen. Two bulbs for $!00 CAD, about $12.85 USD..... It fits in the headlight can without a struggle, and although I've only played in the daylight shining against my tool box, the patterns look pretty decent. Will report better results shortly.

So it has been very common for me to "upgrade" Z head lights using CIBIE H4 housings, and then stuff in either H4 halogen bulbs, or more recently, LED H4 bulbs. Save the ol' headlight switch contacts with lower current LED bulbs and maybe you don't need to add a relay harness I say. All good. Lord, but there are SO many options for LED H4 bulbs out there. Which ones to choose? There are tons of prebuilt fancy one piece LED 7" round headlights out there (thank you to the millions of classic Jeep owners), but most of them are far too modern looking for any Z restoration I'm doing. I want a classic looking lens, then jazz the innards. There is a basic issue with stuffing an LED H4 in a housing designed for Halogen H4 bulbs, primarily with the exact positions for the light elements once in the housing. This can have a major impact on your beam pattern. Very easy to get this wrong. I have fallen in love with Dapper's solution, (https://www.dapperlighting.com/collections/1970-1973-datsun-240z/products/oe7) where they supply a matched housing (made inhouse apparently) with an LED bulb that lines things up perfectly. I have the 575 version in both of my 510's (anyone want one?) and love the pattern perfection and light output. But. $$$$$$$ Have put them in a Z too, but there is a caveat. There is a driver box attached to their bulbs, and that thing does NOT fit inside a S30 headlight can. I had to (cough cough) "make room" with a ball peen hammer..... Many of the aftermarket H4 LED bulbs I see on Amazon for example, ALSO have a driver box and sometimes a rather large fan attached. Buyer beware of the need to do a li;' shapin' as they say.

Yes but your paint, decals, carpet, bunk, rubber and wiring will be just fine. Love the label.

Yes the cleaner. I should show a picture of the bottle.